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Discussion Starter #1
i have a '86 with the 351W. i bought some cheap sunpro gauges water temp/oil pressure/volts, and i installed then today and founf out something interesting. i started the cold motor and the oil pressure (high idle) went to around 45 or 50 and once it warmed up and had a warm idle the pressure dropped to 0 and at about 2K rpm's it goes to 15 or so. my question is if it was really zero how would it not ruin the motor? it has idled like that for about a total of 2 or 3 hrs and still runs ok. you think something is wrong with a gauges even though it show about 50 at cold idle?

Travis
 

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can't kill a smallblock ford. My father bought an 85 5.0 mustang gt once, come to find out, when it warmed up, oil pressure bottomed out. I then proceed to drive it 45 minutes home, and got there too, on 0 oil pressure. had a very slight tapping from a rod at that point, but I was well impressed.

Now is the best time to replace that pump.
 

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green ones make me horny
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same thing happened to me on my old motor. it was the check valve in the pump. replace the pump and clean your motor up (inside) i would put seafoam in it a little before you change the oil pump.
 

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I'm new here so I could be full of BS.. Heck I could be full of it at anytime.. Zero oil pres is bad. Sea foam has a great rep. I use berrymans chemtool at about 1/2 the price.

That siad I have a 88 5.8 it alwys shows low presure, but I'm told that is the way they run...and factory gadge is not very good
 

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you need an oil pump...but first try running a pint of SEAFOAM through the crankcase...aka pour it in with your oil...you can buy this at napa...run the motor at whatever rpm necessary to keep some oil pressure for like 10 mins....try like 2500 rpms...just hold it there for 10 mins parked...you wont hurt nothing... drain and refill the oil and put a new filkter on...the seafoam may free something up that is stealing oil pressure...its a 15 min 4 dollar fix...maybe

884lps.,..if you are reading the stock guage...as long as the needle stays in the normal range you are fine...usually if it stays in the normal range, the fluctuation of the needle is due to voltage...

dc
 

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green ones make me horny
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I'm new here so I could be full of BS.. Heck I could be full of it at anytime.. Zero oil pres is bad. Sea foam has a great rep. I use berrymans chemtool at about 1/2 the price.

That siad I have a 88 5.8 it alwys shows low presure, but I'm told that is the way they run...and factory gadge is not very good
put a factory guage on it. takes about 10 minutes and a pair of pliers. also there is no engine that just "runs" on low oil pressure.

when i bought the bronco about 3 months ago i did 2 complete engine flushes with engine flush kits so maybe by doing that i freed a bunch of stuff up and clogged the pickup?
probably aint helping. yeah you are going to have to clean that out. i did that to my old engien. i ran ATF through it and it clogged the tube and kept clogging it for a while. replace the tube screen and pump and you should be good to go. also check your mains while you are under there as well
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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I would also think that if it really were "ZERO" oil pressure, you'd sure know it by the noise coming from the valve train. Those lifters would sound like a sewing machine from hell.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well before i installed the new gauge the stock gauge read in the normal range. since i bought i've always had a little ticking in or around the top end. i replaced the heads cause i had no compression on 3 cylinders and the valve train looked ok. i didn't replace anything else since i plan on building another 351W in about a year or so. i'm hoping not to spend much of anything on this motor since i'm going to replace it so i'll call around for a oil pump and pickup i guess.

Traivs
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well i bought a high flow oil pump, pickup tube and screen, and a rubber one piece gasket for around $100. i'm going to try and install over the next few days working after work for a few hrs each time. i read dang near every install tip and write up on it so hopfully it will go pretty smooth

Travis
 

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BIGT2317 said:
well i bought a high flow oil pump, pickup tube and screen, and a rubber one piece gasket for around $100.
High flow oil pumps are for race engines. They put too much wear on the cam and the distributor shaft gear on a daily driver. You may want to research this a little more before you install it.
 

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green ones make me horny
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slaga said:
High flow oil pumps are for race engines. They put too much wear on the cam and the distributor shaft gear on a daily driver. You may want to research this a little more before you install it.
high flow pumps do nothing more than pump mopre oil into the engine. wont hurt a thing. high pressure on the other hand can blow seals and gaskets. it will take a few days if you are working on it hours at a time. best advice i can give you is remove the upper intake before anything, alot of people will say they did it without removing it but it is easier to get the engine high enough to clear the oil pan if you do. also make sure you pay attention to where the distributor rod goes, better yet tie it up to something so it doesnt come out. it is a bitch finding the little hex hole on your own. i can do the whole change out in about an hour and a half but i also did it on 5 different occasions wiht the old motor, cleaning screen and all. so it is easy but tiem consuming

ken
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i have a carbed 351W so i don't need to remove the intake right? i wasn't planning on it anyway. but from what i read i have to remove the y pipe right? the high flow pump was only $10 more than a stock one so i figured $10 what the hell

Travis
 

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imlikeojnow said:
high flow pumps do nothing more than pump mopre oil into the engine.
To increase the oil pressure/volume, the pump will require more torque.

BIGT2317, do a search on the high volume oil pumps and form your own opinion.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Another vote here for returning the high volume pump. Unless you actually like heating up your oil, causing undue load, and twisting the intermediate shaft into a candy-cane-like design. :toothless

Okay, that's a little extreme, but honestly you don't need it. Even in my Mustangs which regularly bounced off the rev limiter, I don't use a high volume. The Ford intermediate shaft is just too flimsy, i.e. relatively low torsional rigidity. When that shaft breaks, you THEN have zero oil pressure. Yes, you can purchase a larger, beefier shaft, but the ends are still small and you might as well spare the expense the bigger shaft costs.
 

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I thought Bronco's already had oversize pans - hence the minimum 6 qts. for an oil fill. Your pickup could be out of calibration - not an adjustable thing, but something you need to replace. hi-flows work O.K. if you do alot of driving that isn't flat, pushing more oil into the engine. In fact, hi-flows work better in older Bronc's because pressure indicates resistance to flow. Low pressure thereby indicates engine wear, hence the ability to accomodate more flow without chancing damage to stock parts. Zero isn't possible - the tappets would clatter so loud you would hear your stereo, so it's an inaccurate reading. Flush the engine twice - that'll clear the pickup - and use the stock gauge to see if it indicates any pressure at idle. If low in the range, you're O.K. If no pressure, shut if off and see a mechanic before you blow your engine. J
 

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green ones make me horny
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well trucky18 put a high volums pump on his and he is happy with it. he didnt have to adjust his pan at all either. search through for his write up
 

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imlikeojnow said:
well trucky18 put a high volums pump on his and he is happy with it. he didnt have to adjust his pan at all either. search through for his write up
when I rebuilt my 351w I ordered a high volume pump...directions said you may have to alter oil pan...just my luck the pan i had needed to be altered and i didnt...bolted the pan on and the pump put a hole right thru it.:doh0715:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
well i got the engine jacked up, exhaust bolts out and all the oil pan bolts out. but the problem now is the pan won't come off, i checked and double checked if all the bolts were out and they are it's not hitting anything but i can see some silicone (sp) squeezed out around the crapy cork gasket thats in there. i've hit it with a rubber hammer everywhere i can and it still won't budge i even got my pry bar in place and gently tried to pry it off and no luck, not even a tad. i don't know what the hell to do except to pry and i'm afraid it will break

Zero isn't possible - the tappets would clatter so loud you would hear your stereo, so it's an inaccurate reading. - JGo37

if it's a false reading why would it go to 50 a cold start up and slowly go down as it warms up to eventually it gets damn near 0 maybe 2-3
Travis
 
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