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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, got my 1996 Ford bronco 5.8L back from the Mechanic's for a broken water pump bolt (yeah that one) and a thermostat replacement among a few other things.
Now the gauge, after a few minutes, decides to flicker and stays all the way stuck to the left. The big problem is the notable clicking, diminished performance, and weird idle it now has.

I think it's an issue of lifter tick and a bad oil sending unit (which I've found is rusted). This sound good? Any advice on fixing it/ how much it'll cost?
 

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Yo C,
96 Bronco Oil Pressure Switch:
"The oil pressure switch controls the magnetic oil pressure gauge's pointer position. The oil pressure switch closes under normal engine operating conditions (oil pressure above 42 kPa [6 lb/sq in]). The oil pressure switch opens with the engine (6007) off and no oil pressure.
Check gauge operation as follows:
  • With the key in RUN and the engine off, disconnect wiring connector at the switch. The gauge should indicate on the LOW graduation or below.
  • Connect the wiring connector to the engine block ground. The gauge should indicate just slightly above mid-scale.
  • If the oil pressure gauge tests within calibration, replace oil pressure switch.
  • If the gauge still tests out of calibration, replace oil pressure gauge." by Ford
Is the idle high, or low or rolling?

Next up to bat:
Idle should be @ 675 RPM (per Ford factory spec).

Have you checked any Diagnostic Trouble Codes?
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader.....
With NO Diagnostic Trouble Codes, see Table 12;

Rectangle Font Material property Screenshot Parallel


Under Scope Engine, see if all of the 8 engine cylinders are getting spark. See Part 2 -How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)

Quick Test is the test for Diagnostic trouble codes.

Fuel;
Check fuel pressure by obtaining a tester under local stores' rent a tool program with a refundable security.
Inspect fuel pressure regulator, pull the vacuum line; there shouldn't any gas or aroma thereof in it.

See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 includes jowens1126 HVAC Control Panel info @ Help with dtc codes and idle
If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost
For no codes, see Table 12;

Rectangle Font Material property Screenshot Parallel


Under Scope Engine, see if all of the 8 engine cylinders are getting spark. See Part 2 -How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)

Quick Test is the test for Diagnostic trouble codes.

Fuel;
Check fuel pressure by obtaining a tester under local stores' rent a tool program with a refundable security.
Inspect fuel pressure regulator, pull the vacuum line; there shouldn't any gas or aroma thereof in it.

See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 includes jowens1126 HVAC Control Panel info @ Help with dtc codes and idle
If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost
 

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Now the gauge, after a few minutes, decides to flicker and stays all the way stuck to the left. The big problem is the notable clicking, diminished performance, and weird idle it now has.
All of that sounds like no oil pressure. Have you checked your oil level? Does the oil look milky? Smell like gas?

What work was done that caused the water pump bolt to break?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
All of that sounds like no oil pressure. Have you checked your oil level? Does the oil look milky? Smell like gas?

What work was done that caused the water pump bolt to break?
Oil level is fine, if not a little overfilled. It doesn't look milky either.
Water pump replacement was what lead to the broken bolt in the timing.
 

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Oil level is fine, if not a little overfilled. It doesn't look milky either.
Water pump replacement was what lead to the broken bolt in the timing.
Does the oil smell like gas? There are conditions where gas gets into the oil, thins it out so that oil pressure drops, & causes the oil level to rise.

Was the timing cover removed?
 

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Don't run it anymore. That stuff is so thin it won't protect your bearings. Hopefully there isn't already too much damage.

You need to change the oil. But you need to find why there's gas there. No sense changung the oil without removing the problem. Bad injectors can dump too much fuel & wash past rings. I've heard that a bad pressure regulator can cause it too, but haven't chased that one down myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Don't run it anymore. That stuff is so thin it won't protect your bearings. Hopefully there isn't already too much damage.

You need to change the oil. But you need to find why there's gas there. No sense changung the oil without removing the problem. Bad injectors can dump too much fuel & wash past rings. I've heard that a bad pressure regulator can cause it too, but haven't chased that one down myself.
So injectors or pressure regulator? I already have plans to change the oil tonight so I'll see if I can nab a pic of what comes out.
 

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So injectors or pressure regulator? I already have plans to change the oil tonight so I'll see if I can nab a pic of what comes out.
Those are the common things that I'm familiar with. Older cars with carbs & mechanical fuel pumps had other possibilites, but a 96 doesn't have those issues. I don't know if there might be a path thru the vapor recovery system.
 
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