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Oil Pump Replacement, what worked for me

2680 Views 0 Replies 1 Participant Last post by  Ptack1
Sorry I dont have pics, my digicam broke on me:smilie_slap.

Anyway, here is a GREAT thread which helped me a LOT

Alright, first off. Yes, this is very involved, took me about 12 hrs between a couple days, of course it takes some 8, so it all depends. Be prepared to cut your exhaust, I HAD to, yes i tried everything else first. Oh yea, and YES, it is doable by just about everyone willing to take the time and frustration. And I hope I dont have to do it again.:thumbup

heres how I did it.

1. Take off nuts for motor mounts
2. Take off nuts for Y-pipe up on the collectors at the manifolds. 4 bolts that are TOUGH. PB blaster is your friend. 2 bolts came off with an air impact (pass side) the other 2 required about 2ft of pipe attached to my 1/2in drive ratchet. Man they were bastards. and were 16mm and required 2 extensions.
3. Raise up the motor. I used 2 points in the front (top alternator bolt, and looped pipe on the drivers side) of the engine and used a hoist to get the motor up. Raise it as HIGH as you can, you'll need it, trust me.
4. Put blocks under the motor mounts, i used 2x4's and it was a perfect fit. I kept the hoist under some pressure too just in case.
5. Take off the pan bolts. Here an air ratchet helps. the sides were 3/8's and the ends were 1/2in.
6. Lower pan onto crossmember, get ready for the fun part
7. Alright, in the front, when you peer into the pan, you will see the top of the pump, where it mounts to the block. There are 2 9/16in bolts holding it up. One you can see on the front, one you cant on the back. They are rather simple but you do have to go by feel. LOOK AT THE PUMP SHAFT. You will need to know where it goes, OR...
If you are NOT removing the shaft to replace it (i replaced it with a hardened one for the high volume pump) I got this tip out the other thread. And it worked AWESOME. you will need to drop the pump first the look rubberbands around the shaft, and the bolt in front of it. This will hold it in perfect place and will save you headaches later:chili:
8. Now lay directly under the back of the pan, and feel up and foreward. You will feel a square support running down to the pickup. There is a 9/16 bolt up there you need to remove. The best angle i found was the reach in the pan with the right arm, and prop yourself up with your left to get most of your arm in there.
9. Once that is removed, let the pump, shaft (or see above) and pickup fall into the pan, and get ready for second fun part
THIS IS A GREAT TIME FOR A :drinkbud, cause you will want one.

10. Alright, if you have a lift, or your pass side TTB arm is bolted to the support and there is a nut and bolt in the back you may have to remove them. I did, they were 3/4in.
11. If you need to move the exhaust back, unbolt the hangers, this did not work for me, i still couldnt get it out. So I just cut the exhaust right after the bend in the y pipe. :rockon I recommend this method, then weld it up, or use a repair coupler after. (my first time welding, it was ugly, thats for sure:shocked).
12. Jocky and wrassle your pan outta there, push it forward, tip it up as much as you can, and try to pull it out. You may need to try to raise the motor up more, or something. Just jocky with it:banghead.
13. WOO HOO, its out, YOUR HALFWAY THERE:beer. Clean the biatch up and make it pretty. You can paint it too so it doesnt rust. If it rusts, you gotta do it again:banghead
14. Remove the pickup (1/2in bolts) and clean out the screen. I used a coat hanger piece, bent 90* to "sweep" out the intake area. I had a bunch of metal and plastic pieces, which is a horrible sign. Put the pickup (with new gasket)on your new pump.
15. I used gaskacinch to stick the gaskets on scraped clean surfaces. There are 2, one between the pickup, the other between the pump and block
16. Put it all in the pan, prime it if youve got some oil by putting the shaft in there and spinning it, i did not, i figured it would be alright. I may be wrong.
17. I got one of the blue FelPro PermaDryplus gaskets, you should too, they cost more, but you dont want to do it again. They came with 4 clips you thread into the block where the 1/2in bolts go, then slide the gasket onto them and it holds it in place (awesome idea), so do this.
18. Wrassle the pan up there. This can slip over the plastic clips for the gaskets too, make sure the gasket is in place as you clip it up. I was able to leave all 4 in as the pan went up, you may not be able to leave the front 2 in.
19. Once it is cliped into place, clip the metal brackets over the clips. these are 2 piece brackets, one on each side of the pan. they just space out the bolts i guess.
20. Start going around and put the bolts in MAKE SURE THE GASKET IS LINED UP. Finger tighten first.
21. Starting on the ends and alternating going around, tighten the bolts EASILY, they dont torque down much so be careful. I stripped one barely putting pressure on it:twak
22. Torque em down. The book listed in.lbs, and a conversion into ft.lbs. 7.5ft.lbs for the smaller, 9.5 for the larger. Trust me, this is not much
23. Make sure you are all clear, and lower that motor down:chili:
24. Tighten up those motor mounts.:chili:
25. Reattach the y pipe, or reweld as need be. This was my first time welding, i did alright, but also used a collar. I will have an exhaust leak:doh0715:

:beer:beer:drinkbud Fill er up, and fire her up, check for leaks and new pressure.

Good luck, post up any questions you have here.
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