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I've read all the (tailgate and tailgate window probs) threads...my rear window is stuck down, 12v to motor = nothing. How do you get the window UP to access the motor? Most of the information I read was greatl, but they all refer to moving the window up with the motor. If the motor is blown stuck down, how do you release the glass to move it out of the way? 89 Custom/mostly stock, well cared for. Wicked Pete
 

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HEY BIG SIX: Thanks for the response, I must be a little slow or need new glasses but I have looked at your post and CAN'T find the caption that says anything about "window stuck down".

Here is the closest thing I can find: "If the window switches work, the L latch must be fully closed to defeat the safety interlock switch. If the window can't be moved by the switches, find the motor connector shown and apply 12V power to the 2 exposed wires to operate the motor. Position the glass so that the track nuts are just above the lower edge of the opening. This glass is too high. If the tailgate is closed, reach behind the center divider and pull the operating rod down to enable the latch, and open the tailgate. (See later pics.)"

I am a retired teacher and possess a formal education (wow?) but really can't find the answer (in any threads), am I losing my marbles from the ole cranial capacity? Do you unbold the glass from the holder while in the down position? Argh!
 

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UPDATE! Yunno CollinsPerformance was correct, you have to drill out the rivets...WITHOUT BREAKING THE GLASS! Went to the dealership, talked to the Supervisor; He basically said I was "screwed". If you can't move the window (mine won't move-stuck down), you have to drill through the outer (inside of vehicle) sheetmetal and drill out the rivets...I am thinking positive here, no problem (another puzzle) not too hard for us Bronco folks! Right? Just stick together and SHARE that information....we'll make it.
 

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Wicked Pete said:
UPDATE! Yunno CollinsPerformance was correct, you have to drill out the rivets...WITHOUT BREAKING THE GLASS! Went to the dealership, talked to the Supervisor; He basically said I was "screwed". If you can't move the window (mine won't move-stuck down), you have to drill through the outer (inside of vehicle) sheetmetal and drill out the rivets...I am thinking positive here, no problem (another puzzle) not too hard for us Bronco folks! Right? Just stick together and SHARE that information....we'll make it.
dremmel with flexible shaft and grinding stone? :shrug
 

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I'm curious on how you put 12V to the motor. My rear window was stuck in the up postion. I got out my 2V batery charger and put the neg on one side and the pos to the other. Window came down. Did the opposite window went up. After playing with it awhile once I got the tail gate down I found that power was indeed getting to the motor. I'm guessing that my switch isn't sending a ground source when I turn the switch. It isn't cause for big concern right now. I just cover the window with a tarp when I'm not driving it.
 

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i really need help here

No, you don't. Look at #s 10 & 11.
my window is stuck DOWN and jammed - '87 FSB.

i been looking at all 77 pictures for hrs and cant figure out this.
I guess you have to have done it to get it.

At this point I am considering cutting port holes to get to the glass track and unbolt it. problem is, I cant tell how the glass is bolted either.

My next option it to cut a port hole on the outside and get to the motor and remove it so I can pull the glass up.

Is there a option #3?

I also looked again at the pictures, specially 10 and 11. If I didnt get it before, now I am really lost.

can someone please explain in layman's terms?

thanks



my gate looks like this one except glass is all the way down.


this is #10


this is #11.
are those the bolts that hold the glass to the track? how many are there? two per side?
can i remove them after drilling access holes on the gate?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is what I did:

Mine was stuck down, I went nuts looking for that particular (thread) problem, yea, if they are up; no problem. When it is stuck down you MUST drill through the metal and unbolt the glass. I replaced the motor with a unit form the local parts place.

I rewired the dash switch to the tailgate...but that's another story. Pete
 

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Mine was stuck down, I went nuts looking for that particular (thread) problem, yea, if they are up; no problem. When it is stuck down you MUST drill through the metal and unbolt the glass. I replaced the motor with a unit form the local parts place.

I rewired the dash switch to the tailgate...but that's another story. Pete
Pete,

appreciate the response.

question? after i unbolt the glass, i can just pull it? is it glued?

this is a serious problem for me, truck is on the street with all my tools and no way to lock it up. what a way to spend the New Year.

I'm still working on the gate tonight.

thanks
 

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Steve,

the wires on the motor got caught in the gears and got cut.
i can see them under the glass.

will the glass be glued to the rail/track?

thanks for the how to remove the glass
 

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The wires don't go between the gears & glass for exactly that reason - did someone install the motor/wiring wrong?

Look at sections 4&5, and image 52.



my wires were routed just like the picture. but see the end of the arm half circle with teeth by the word "REGULATOR" ?

the flat end of that half circle snagged the wires somehow. that motor had been there for many years. maybe the wires had too much slack and got moved when i went in to bypass the safety switch on the driver side latch. i made damn sure the harness was well secured after working with the bypass but it didnt occur to me to check every other wire in the gate.

one thing, my wires do NOT have a conduit coming off the motor. there were just TWO wires coming out of the motor and going under the regulator. they do have conduit as they come out at the bottom of the gate and it is all well secured.

i just couldnt get the glass off tonight with flashlights, cold, and tired. will give it another try in the morning.

one thing .. i wish i had a welding torch. i was able fasten with safety wire, a small 5/16" box end wrench to a 2ft long construction metal tie and lossen two of the bolts on the motor. i slipped the home made gismo through the edge by the "end seal". Problem is, I cant get the box end to the 3rd bolt, the one closest to the motor. I know a socket would do it. If i had a welder, i would weld a socket to the metal tie and get the bolts off to let the motor drop and release the regulator gears. you may want to keep that idea in your arsenal of tools.

i also did consider hooking the large hole on the half circle and pulling on it hoping to over ride the motor, but again, working with a soft metal tie, the hook made from the tie simply just bends back and slips out. not sure one can really over ride a worm drive.

at one point i actually pulled out the metal cutter and was ready to cut a port hole just behind the motor. after thinking of the condition of this Bronco, never has had damage, I put the cutter away.

I havent kicked the truck .. YET !

i did search for a "alternate drive" but nothing came up. Is there one out there? I assume it would be a manual crank from outside.

it has been a memorable New Year's Eve.

thanks Steve.
thanks Pete.

Happy New Year !
 

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WHY are you working on the motor bolts??? :scratchhe

You should be removing the 4 roller track nuts at the BOTTOM of the t/g from the inside, working thru the access panel. The ones with the green pointers in the bottom pic in your post #11 above. It'll take 20 min. tops to get all 4 of them off, then push the studs out of the glass brackets (the regulator arms flex easily), and shove the glass up out of the way. Then you can get to the wires with the motor still in place.
That was before I knew the window was held by the 4 bolts. it took about an hr to undo the bolts (used a 7/16" long open end), remove the motor, splice the wires and secure all wires. oh, also greased everything that moves.

BTW, in response to one of the pictures you have, seals and water on unpainted surfaces inside, my gate is painted 100% on the inside except for the regulator. it is painted the OEM color that matches the rest of the truck.
IS that unique?

Not a hard job at all IF and IF one knows about the 4 bolts holding the glass.

CAUTION !
one VERY IMPORTANT THING. Unless one had seen the warning elsewhere, with the glass unbolted and moved out and now having to remove the motor, the REGULATOR ARMS came back like guillotines with brutal force and I have little doubt that they would have broken my fingers if my hand was in there when it happened.
I had no choice in removing the motor as the cut wires were not accessible to splice unless I pulled the motor out.
My suggestion for anyone doing this is to SECURE the arms to each other before popping the motor out.
This is a serious CAUTION !

as long as I had the motor out, i installed a new set of nylon bushings. $12 locally .. OUCH!
upon inspection, i found the old ones badly cracked.

i also inspected the defroster and found several "gaps", so on your comments about shattering glass, I decided to disconnect it. I use it once or twice a year and dont need to chance a broken window back there.

thanks





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Glad to see you got er done. Also, nice save on the glass. I found out at Mt. Charleston, NV when it was 10* out how that glass will shatter. Had to drive about 45 minutes home to Las Vegas with no rear window and 3 young kids, one mine and two of his friends. Glad we had warm clothes and gloves.
 

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This was the 3rd time messing with the damn safety switch in just 11 years. the first two times costed like $200 to fix, window stuck open while traveling, raining - it had gotten to the point that i didnt open the back window while traveling - loading stuff from the back seat was safer.

this time, enough is enough. just imagen, all this trouble started with that switch - now bypassed. And i still have to remount the reflector that fell off.

BTW, i carry duct tape for such things like repairs. a cardboard box and a roll of tape will make a fine substitute for a back window in an emergency. like when the window wont go up.

then i read about the defroster shattering the glass? good riddens .. what's next? if the glass fogs up, i can easily roll it down a bit. i dont need no stinking defroster back there.

just think - i held the cutter on my hands ready to slice off a port hole and almost went ahead with it.

i hope this thread helps a few hundred other FSB guys down the road.

Steve, the pictures are great, if one has seen the real hardware and are not stuck in the wrong place, at the wrong time, with minimum tools, cold, windy, dark, and raining on you. At first, the pics and diagrams were like Greek. Now, i can take off the glass in a jiffy, blindfolded.

a bonus .. my neighbor saw me out there this morning and she brought over coffee and a massive plate of food - turkey, corn, rice, stuffing, mashed potatoes - the works - nice girl, nice girl and she cooks? wowww ...

my thanks to all that helped in this saga of window stuck in down position ...




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When my tailgate motor was inop I just gently "forced" the glass up or down to access the retaining nuts (pic#11, post#11).
 
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