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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, went to Phoenix to pick up a new to me bronco. I decided to drive it back to Texas. Ran good on test drive so we closed the deal and I headed East. Now some background. 1995 124k original miles, well cared for. Fuel pump, fuel filter, distributor, rotor, plugs and wires all replaced in the last yr.
I started my drive and about 2-3 hrs in to trip it starts to cut out a little and bog down at 2000+ rpm and 65-75 mph. CEL comes on and off sporadically with no rhyme or reason. I shut it down and started it back up and it ran great again for another 30-60miles. I kept this up for another 150 miles or so. Next day same game runs good for 20-80 miles then starts cutting out until it won’t stay above 60 then I’d shut down and start over. Made it to a parts store and replaced O2 sensor. Same game then replaced coil and MAP sensor at next stop. Then stopped at a ford dealership and they checked the fuel pressure. Recommended I replace the regulator so I replaced it and the fuel filter. Another 80ish miles and same bogging and cutting out. I checked the pressure and it sits steady at 30-32# even with high rpm. Same game. The next stop got another suggestion to replace the ignition control module. Same song and dance different verse. Anyone have any ideas?? The check engine light doesn’t stay on so we can’t pull any codes. I’m not sure where to go next. Starts great, idles great, slow cruise is fine but hwy speed is a no go. And when it acts up I just turn it off and immediately back on and it runs good again. No “cool down” period required but the longer it’s shut down the better it runs when I start it back up.

Let me know your ideas and thoughts, I’m out.
 

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I'm betting bad PCM.
 

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I had a issue with the PIP inside the dizzy. The dizzy shaft showed signs of wear and would not spin freely ( slight drag). This caused some heat to be generated inside the dizzy shaft .. that would cause the PIP … to heat up and send bad info to the ICM. Caused some hesitation during acceleration at higher speeds ( shaft turning at a higher RPM).

took a while to figure it out... since no check engine light … But eventually it did get bad enough to throw a code. Hard to trouble shoot a failing electrical component that only fails when hot.

keep the thread active with the solution .. when found


 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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Even if the CEL doesn't stay on you can still pull codes..they'll remain in the KAM..I agree with the above, the PIP in the dizzy or possibly the TFI are good candidates for your problem..

I'm betting you'll find a 211 code.
 
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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
They tried to pull the codes and it didn’t show any. From what I was told these don’t store codes. But I haven’t dealt with 90’s model trucks since the 90’s until now so I don’t know. I even asked two different ford dealerships and they said the same thing. I don’t have a code reader for the OBD-1
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Any Autozone has these in stock for $29.99 & they are always a great tool to help diagnose problems.

177053


Then the extended cord autozone does not have, but you can find them online so you can read it from the drivers seat when it asks for throttle input & the steering wheel to be turned.

177057
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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So I agree it should have them stored. Also is should never give you ZERO codes as the OBD-1 system in these truck have a code for all clear, or no codes, 11
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok I’ll try autozone, O’Reilly is the one that tried to check it but not completely confident he knew what he was doing. The only code reader they had for obd1 to purchase was $300+. Funny thing is the two different ford dealerships I stopped at also agreed it didn’t store the codes. Can’t trust anyone nowadays.
I’ll see if my autozone has the reader.
 

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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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Clean your MAF sensor and see if that helps. These get dirty over time and start to give not so accurate readings that wouldn't necessarily throw a code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Clean your MAF sensor and see if that helps. These get dirty over time and start to give not so accurate readings that wouldn't necessarily throw a code.
This yr doesn’t have MAF, it has the MAP on the firewall and I already replaced it.
 

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I build beautiful things. And they pay me for it
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Its almost NEVER a computer. Dude already said distributor, I was gonna say pick up module. Thats the PIP my guy was talking about. These old trucks, most professional techs back in the 90s wouldn't even get out a code reader. You pretty much knew what it needed. In order to change out a pick up coil on a ford, you need a special puller tool to get the gear off. Nowadays a whole new distributor is probably not that expensive
 
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