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Discussion Starter #21
Wonder what inside of the tank looks like? A crudded up sock on the fuel intake can cause problems like this.
The truck is well cared for and fuel that cane out of the fuel filter was crystal clear. Fuel pump was replaced about a yr ago. My fuel pressure is stable at 30-32# at all rpm when stopped so I have kind of eliminated fuel as the issue. But still a possibility, just don’t want to drop the tank if I don’t have to.
 

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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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This yr doesn’t have MAF, it has the MAP on the firewall and I already replaced it.
My eyes read 5.0 not 5.8. Sorry about that. It just reminded me of buying 4 cyl auto s-10's with a "bad tranny" because they wouldn't shift out of first with a dirty MAF. My Saabaru would do exactly as you are describing when it's MAF was dirty. I think @broncosarge77 might be on the right track with the sock on the fuel pickup.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Its almost NEVER a computer. Dude already said distributor, I was gonna say pick up module. Thats the PIP my guy was talking about. These old trucks, most professional techs back in the 90s wouldn't even get out a code reader. You pretty much knew what it needed. In order to change out a pick up coil on a ford, you need a special puller tool to get the gear off. Nowadays a whole new distributor is probably not that expensive
Don’t think they are.
 

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They tried to pull the codes and it didn’t show any. From what I was told these don’t store codes. But I haven’t dealt with 90’s model trucks since the 90’s until now so I don’t know. I even asked two different ford dealerships and they said the same thing. I don’t have a code reader for the OBD-1
I've seen this Actron or the Bosch/OTC variants at some O'Reillys. Depending on where you are on your trip, you might be able to get it next day through Amazon.


The benefit is it gives live data on the 95 ECM even with OBD1. There are ~20 PIDs you can watch to see if temps, TPS, timing, etc are off. It also will code read. Well worth the price when trying to track down a weird issue. I've had the Bosch variant for a few years and have used the live data a lot
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I’m home but made 5 attempted road trip repairs on the way. Going to try the scanner this evening and see what the next step is.
 

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Get a code reader. If you can't pull codes - you have issues either with the ECM or the wiring. And 20 years ago I would have agreed it's "almost never" a bad ECM. But I've experienced a bad one - twice at this point. I'd pull the ECM, make sure water didn't get into the compartment, and at least do a visual check for burnt / leaking caps etc.

These computers are 20+ years old. Electrical components fail.
 

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I build beautiful things. And they pay me for it
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I'm sayin f#ck a scanner. These trucks. Its either fuel or ignition. Yall wanna spend $ buy a fuel pressure guage. Throttle body coking effects idle. Tps sensor can make the truck just lope and be wierd at stop lights. Almost die. But these intermittent things, scanner aint helpin you at all. Really, you just need a paperclip and Google. And count light flashes. Buy a distributor. Be done w it.
 

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Hey. I may have been a little aggressive. Not my intention. These old trucks, the ecm is very simple. It aint like today. They just a small step above a carb. When the truck lose fire and die, the ecm may as well think you turned the key off. I aint but 45 years old, but in my 19 and 20s, we worked on these. And I literally watched old timer put a screw driver on an engine to they ear, and fixed the car. I whole heartedly in my gut feel its the PIP. let me know if im wrong. I been wrong before....
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Code reader $30 spent...
Never counting flashes again, PRICELESS!!

I would say a digital multimeter for testing various electronic components & a fuel pressure guage are also must-have items on these old EFI Systems, but they are easy to repair.

Glad to hear you made it back safely!
 

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Hey. I may have been a little aggressive. Not my intention. These old trucks, the ecm is very simple. It aint like today. They just a small step above a carb. When the truck lose fire and die, the ecm may as well think you turned the key off. I aint but 45 years old, but in my 19 and 20s, we worked on these. And I literally watched old timer put a screw driver on an engine to they ear, and fixed the car. I whole heartedly in my gut feel its the PIP. let me know if im wrong. I been wrong before....
Maybe my 1995 is different...........but with the E4OD (you can read my build thread where I chased shifting issues) the ECM can cause weird stuff without throwing codes and even throwing codes that don't make sense. In fact the E4OD is PURELY operated by the ECM and the sensor input it gets.

I had the fuel pump engage constantly with the key on - ECM caused that as well.

I'm not saying buy a scanner, I'm saying check the codes. I don't replace parts normally without testing components, guess it was the time I spent wrenching on GM TBI and TPI systems for a living.

It takes 30 minutes and zero dollars to remove the inner fender liner and yank the ECM and open the case and see if it's got some bad capacitors etc.

The best investment anyone could get for these trucks is a Ford EVTM manual. It'll let you troubleshoot symptoms and trace things down the the components and test them.

It very well might be the distributor, but the EVTM tells you how to test it. Besides the shaft / bearing going bad, the only thing that can fail is the hall sensor / PIP inside the distributor. I considered putting a new one in my '95 when I went through the engine, but the reviews I was seeing on replacement distributors wasn't real confidence inspiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Ok after some research and recommendation it sound like the pcm is the problem. I pulled it out and it is not original. Has a manufacture date of 5/4/2015. What are the chances this thing has already gone bad again?
 

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Well bein as I fixed cars since the 90s, if you want to approach a computer problem, you need a break out box. And those things are dinosaurs now. I say throw a distributor at it, you say throw a computer at it. Ok.
 

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I had a issue with the PIP inside the dizzy. The dizzy shaft showed signs of wear and would not spin freely ( slight drag). This caused some heat to be generated inside the dizzy shaft .. that would cause the PIP … to heat up and send bad info to the ICM. Caused some hesitation during acceleration at higher speeds ( shaft turning at a higher RPM).

took a while to figure it out... since no check engine light … But eventually it did get bad enough to throw a code. Hard to trouble shoot a failing electrical component that only fails when hot.

keep the thread active with the solution .. when found


You know what you talkin bout bro
 

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Ok after some research and recommendation it sound like the pcm is the problem. I pulled it out and it is not original. Has a manufacture date of 5/4/2015. What are the chances this thing has already gone bad again?
Don’t randomly replace the ECM. Open it up, look for burn spots on the board. It costs nothing and takes a few minutes. If you don’t notice anything, move on. You mention fuel pump. Have you checked the fuel pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Don’t randomly replace the ECM. Open it up, look for burn spots on the board. It costs nothing and takes a few minutes. If you don’t notice anything, move on. You mention fuel pump. Have you checked the fuel pressure?
I opened the pcm and everything looks normal. Nothing melted or burned looking.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Don’t randomly replace the ECM. Open it up, look for burn spots on the board. It costs nothing and takes a few minutes. If you don’t notice anything, move on. You mention fuel pump. Have you checked the fuel pressure?
Yep like I said above couple times pressure is steady 30-32 at all rpm levels and holds. Fuel pump was replaced about a yr ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Well bein as I fixed cars since the 90s, if you want to approach a computer problem, you need a break out box. And those things are dinosaurs now. I say throw a distributor at it, you say throw a computer at it. Ok.
I don’t have a distributor to try yet. Chill bud. I took the box out so I could check it out, all looked good so next step is distributor. Everywhere I have read where their pcm was bad was exactly the same results I am having. Just going thru the steps.At this point I’m almost tempted to just go ahead and replace everything I can so I won’t have any other problems in the future.
 

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I opened the pcm and everything looks normal. Nothing melted or burned looking.
I would get the code off the ECM (since you have it out) - Look for the Ford Part# or even the rebuilder part # so for piece of mind you at least know it's the right ECM.

RockAuto is probably your best best for distributor - Might want to confirm your original part #, since I'm pretty sure with a '95 5.8 Bronco, you should have a factory roller cam - which means you need a replacement distributor with a steel gear.
 
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