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Discussion Starter #41
I would get the code off the ECM (since you have it out) - Look for the Ford Part# or even the rebuilder part # so for piece of mind you at least know it's the right ECM.

RockAuto is probably your best best for distributor - Might want to confirm your original part #, since I'm pretty sure with a '95 5.8 Bronco, you should have a factory roller cam - which means you need a replacement distributor with a steel gear.
I have a summit store nearby, was gonna check with them to see what they have but will check with rock also.
 

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I've been busy trying to finish a kitchen remodel at the house.......but I'll try to pull out my Ford EVTM manual for the 1995 tonight. Me personally I wouldn't just throw parts at it. Problem is with the quality of rebuilt parts / sensors today you might be putting bad parts in the place of good original parts and it just makes troubleshooting a nightmare. I've been there - in a hurry - and it sucks, but it usually takes more time to throw parts at it than find / troubleshoot the actual problem.

I reread your initial post - I'm going to assume that when you listed it had the distributor replaced - you mean distributor cap?

You really need to pull the codes on it. You don't even have to get a code reader, it's just that sitting there counting the blinks of the light can be annoying. That "random" CEL almost always points you in the direction you need to start troubleshooting.....I just experienced this myself on my son's 1995. The codes all pointed towards this or that, but the problem wasn't constant and they all pointed to something making the truck run LEAN. Turns out the fuel filter was a Fram and the filter element inside the metal housing had literally detached and was rattling around. Replace with a Motorcraft filter and it hasn't acted stupid since.

Go here:


Or you can buy a cheap code reader. Either way - if the truck threw a CEL when your were driving, it will store that code, regardless if it only came on for a minute. If you get to that point and you can't pull any codes - then you have an ECM problem. (Keep in mind, even if there is NOTHING wrong with your truck, if the ECM is working it will give you a code 11 to tell you the system is working).

If you don't get ANY codes start here:


HTH
 

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Is there a prize for who gets it right?

The problem is it starts back up, so if you lost something like spark or fuel, you can't tell because it fires back up. Do you almost need to rig stuff up to monitor so you can see what's going on when it happens.

If you haven't pulled codes your just casting in the wind. Although they aren't dead nuts accurate they often help lead in the right path. Clogged fuel sock or filter, water in fuel, lose coil main wire.........those type of things can't be read.

Have you checked/replaced the fuel filter? My truck gave symptoms like that from the filter as mentioned earlier in this thread. I've seen heavy key chain charms pull a little too much on a worn ignition switch jiggling it just right to kill it, but fires up when you turn it.
 

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I'm sayin f#ck a scanner. These trucks. Its either fuel or ignition. Yall wanna spend $ buy a fuel pressure guage. Throttle body coking effects idle. Tps sensor can make the truck just lope and be wierd at stop lights. Almost die. But these intermittent things, scanner aint helpin you at all. Really, you just need a paperclip and Google. And count light flashes. Buy a distributor. Be done w it.
You can say **** a scanner, but it isn't 1996 anymore. Technology has advanced and become much more accessible to the shadetree mechanic. It's a lot easier to diagnose an issue when you can see live data and use an oscilloscope.

You're also wrong. There's a lot of variables that will make these trucks run rough. TPS, MAP, ECT all affect how the PCM runs the truck. A bad ECT will make the truck run horribly rough. With a scan tool, you can actually see what temperature the ECM is receiving. On a 90+ truck, you can also see the TPS voltage directly from the ECM with a scanner while you're driving. $200 isn't a ton of money to help diagnose things correctly. People spend a ton more than that throwing parts at issues.
 

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-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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You might try running it until it runs poorly, park it while still running, then pop the gas cap & listen for a vacuum hiss when you break the seal.

When fuel is sucked out of the tank, air has to be allowed in to replace the space the fuel left behind. If air can't get in, the tank develops a vacuum that keeps fuel from being pumped out like it should. It's not common, but usually shows up about 30 minutes into a drive, varying according to the fuel demand. It seems unlikely on a 95, but the test is free & easy.
 

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You can say **** a scanner, but it isn't 1996 anymore. Technology has advanced and become much more accessible to the shadetree mechanic. It's a lot easier to diagnose an issue when you can see live data and use an oscilloscope.

You're also wrong. There's a lot of variables that will make these trucks run rough. TPS, MAP, ECT all affect how the PCM runs the truck. A bad ECT will make the truck run horribly rough. With a scan tool, you can actually see what temperature the ECM is receiving. On a 90+ truck, you can also see the TPS voltage directly from the ECM with a scanner while you're driving. $200 isn't a ton of money to help diagnose things correctly. People spend a ton more than that throwing parts at issues.
I agree with ect tps map. Ok. But is it fixed yet? And what fixes it?
 

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You can say **** a scanner, but it isn't 1996 anymore. Technology has advanced and become much more accessible to the shadetree mechanic. It's a lot easier to diagnose an issue when you can see live data and use an oscilloscope.

You're also wrong. There's a lot of variables that will make these trucks run rough. TPS, MAP, ECT all affect how the PCM runs the truck. A bad ECT will make the truck run horribly rough. With a scan tool, you can actually see what temperature the ECM is receiving. On a 90+ truck, you can also see the TPS voltage directly from the ECM with a scanner while you're driving. $200 isn't a ton of money to help diagnose things correctly. People spend a ton more than that throwing parts at issues.
I
You are right. Its not 1996.
You can say **** a scanner, but it isn't 1996 anymore. Technology has advanced and become much more accessible to the shadetree mechanic. It's a lot easier to diagnose an issue when you can see live data and use an oscilloscope.

You're also wrong. There's a lot of variables that will make these trucks run rough. TPS, MAP, ECT all affect how the PCM runs the truck. A bad ECT will make the truck run horribly rough. With a scan tool, you can actually see what temperature the ECM is receiving. On a 90+ truck, you can also see the TPS voltage directly from the ECM with a scanner while you're driving. $200 isn't a ton of money to help diagnose things correctly. People spend a ton more than that throwing parts at issues.
I agree. It aint 1996. Tech has advanced. You said oscilloscope. That is exactly what we used back in the 90s. Who has one of those? Ha. Not needed. You can clearly regurgitate words. From back then. I was at the ford dealer and fed my family from that job in the 90s , the service manual told us if you think map or ignition module, use a known good module. That means take it off your truck and try it on they truck. Or keep one in your tool box. As a diagnostic tool. Yes. Tech has changed. But a 30 year old truck? The computer in that truck will always be dumber than a black and white Nintendo game boy.
 

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I
You are right. Its not 1996.

I agree. It aint 1996. Tech has advanced. You said oscilloscope. That is exactly what we used back in the 90s. Who has one of those? Ha. Not needed. You can clearly regurgitate words. From back then. I was at the ford dealer and fed my family from that job in the 90s , the service manual told us if you think map or ignition module, use a known good module. That means take it off your truck and try it on they truck. Or keep one in your tool box. As a diagnostic tool. Yes. Tech has changed. But a 30 year old truck? The computer in that truck will always be dumber than a black and white Nintendo game boy.
Further more , ect tps map blah blah. Our trucks is old as shit. And all these sensors cost like 27 to 35 ish. Big deal. I stand where I started. A computer almost never fixes the problem. **** a scanner a **** a oscilloscope. Do you FOR REAL, even know how to use it? Ha. FOMF
 

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i had a bad ecm and my truck still ran but did give intermittent issues. the capacitors (3) were bad on the board. and for an old @$$ ecm, might be. but, 99% of the times its not ecm related, they are pretty solid units. again, not saying its your ecm, but could it be? sure, it could be anything since its random and fixes itself as soon as you restart it. lol
 

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Yo Kactuskiller,
Welcome!
With No Codes (more about this situation later);
Table 8
177429

See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl jowens126 's HVAC Control Panel info @ Help with dtc codes and idle
Excerpts:
"When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost."
▪︎
NO CODES:
177430

By member Jermil01
...
& by absent member Fireguy50 (Ryan M) @ Fuel Injection Technical Library » No Codes?
Choose a few to test, etc.

For tests with the breakout box, as I mentioned in another thread here in lieu of the box go to the EEC-IV PIN instead.


EEC IV 60 Pin Connector Pin Diagram by Ryan M
Pin Legend

EEC IV 60 Pin Connector Pin Legend by Ryan M @ Ford Fuel Injection

ASAP, find out if speed control recall work, if equipped was completed. If you still have concerns about Recalls, please contact the Ford Customer Relationship Center:
US: 800-392-3673 | CA: 800-565-3673
Note: 3673 spells "FORD" on phone keys
For the hearing- or speech-impaired: Please contact the Telecommunication Relay Service by dialing 71
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
See this guide by jowens1126 to confirm recall status @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than 94-96.

1995 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ 1995 Ford Bronco

1995 Bronco Drivetrain, Powertrain Service Manual - Google Drive
&
1995 Bronco Chassis, Service Manual - Google Drive
To switch between folder list & grid views, click the button to the right of the "DOWNLOAD ALL" button in the upper right corner of the window) by HawkDriver

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via BroncMom

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (50 non-padded posts required to participate, due to scammers who preyed on our members).

Our Forum FAQs includes for example, How to Use Search, How to add your Signature and more tips!

➡See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)
... Includes such as, How do I fix my back window?

Take time to participate in our current Full-Size of the Month & later in the year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing.
Prizes are awarded to the winner!; a full spread in Bronco Driver Magazine is the top prize, in addition to a years subscription, once the article is submitted; and a years worth of premium FSB membership.
Al
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Got a code reader but also had already ordered the pcm and distributor. I figured even if they aren’t bad yet it may reduce the future chances of failure. Went ahead and installed both and still have the same problem. It’s same. But even tho it’s barely accelerating and has a sluggish throttle it’s not throwing any CEL yet. I went ahead and plugged reader in to run a few of the tests and nothing significant shows up so far. Exhaust still smells a little rich to me and accerlaration/throttle response is pretty bad.
Fuel pump was replaced bout a yr ago.
Since I got it the last two weeks I have replaced;
MAP sensor
1 O2 sensor, right below junction in exhaust, only one on it
Ignition control module
Fuel filter
Coil
Distributor/cap/rotor
and just as a recap fuel pressure sitting steady at 30-32# even with higher rpm

I’m gonna drive it some more and see if a CEL pops up I guess but not sure where to go from here.
 

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Got a code reader but also had already ordered the pcm and distributor. I figured even if they aren’t bad yet it may reduce the future chances of failure. Went ahead and installed both and still have the same problem. It’s same. But even tho it’s barely accelerating and has a sluggish throttle it’s not throwing any CEL yet. I went ahead and plugged reader in to run a few of the tests and nothing significant shows up so far. Exhaust still smells a little rich to me and accerlaration/throttle response is pretty bad.
Fuel pump was replaced bout a yr ago.
Since I got it the last two weeks I have replaced;
MAP sensor
1 O2 sensor, right below junction in exhaust, only one on it
Ignition control module
Fuel filter
Coil
Distributor/cap/rotor
and just as a recap fuel pressure sitting steady at 30-32# even with higher rpm

I’m gonna drive it some more and see if a CEL pops up I guess but not sure where to go from here.
Timing may be off. This era SBF had issues with the timing marks spinning on the distributor. I know Hillbillyrob76 says scopes aren't helpful, but I disagree. This is a relative compression test from a 95 Bronco w/a 351w that had similar symptoms as yours. Slightly bad smelling exhaust, terrible acceleration, etc. All sensors checked out. Timing per a timing light was 10* BTDC with the spout out.

The relative compression test showed spark was hitting ~30* after TDC. I adjusted the distributor until the spark line hit at TDC and that corrected the problem. There may be another way to identify that issue, but it took ~2 mins with a scope.

The blue humps are the compression strokes. The red line is a trigger off the #1 plug wire. You can easily see with a scope that spark is occurring after TDC
 

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Discussion Starter #55
The problem is most of the time it will run great near perfect for 5-100miles it varies. The harder you work it on the top end like heavy acceleration the quicker it starts running bad. Then it progressively gets worse to where it will literally barely drive until you shut it off and restart. It’s like something starts getting a bad signal or gets hot and starts causing issues. Today I worked it hard until it literally wouldn’t hardly run over 30mph. It never thru a CEL. No bad codes on the reader either.
min stumped
 

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Then it progressively gets worse to where it will literally barely drive until you shut it off and restart.
this is the best evidence you've given yet.
perfect indication of clogged fuel pump sock and a rusty tank. which will give good fuel pressure and very little contaminants in the fuel filter. i believe this was mentioned a couple times, yets its a pita but its where you need to start.

the more you work the truck, (agitate the tank) the faster the fuel pump sock gets clogged. when the truck shuts off, remaining contaminants aren't sucked up against the sock and simply fall back off, you start the truck, everything seems fine until it just repeats itself.

is this the culprit? could be. could be something getting hot, a break in a wire, faulty key switch, wrong air in the tire.....who knows. id starts at the source of life which is fuel pump in the tank, all is well there, move on torwards the engine. but the fact that it starts good but progressively gets worse should help us help you.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Ok, I finally spliced an extension into my fuel pressure line where I can tape it to my windshield to gauge while I drive.
And it looks like it is definitely the fuel pump in some form. Pressure stayed steady at 30-35# for a while but once it started cutting out it was dripping to 15-20#. Looks like I’ll be dropping the tank this week.
Fuel pump was replaced about a yr ago but I guess it was either faulty or something has happened to the sock.
I will post my findings when it happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I haven’t noticed any vacuum so far. Next time I d rice and it acts up I’ll pull over and check.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Ok it threw a CEL last night while running rough. Fuel pressure was steady but ran really bad. I pulled the code and it said code 172 HEGO fault lean.
Any suggestions?

I’m guessing this could still be related to the dropping fuel pressure I had yesterday. Just trying to eliminate all possibilities before I drop the tank.
 
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