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Ok it threw a CEL last night while running rough. Fuel pressure was steady but ran really bad. I pulled the code and it said code 172 HEGO fault lean.
Any suggestions?

I’m guessing this could still be related to the dropping fuel pressure I had yesterday. Just trying to eliminate all possibilities before I drop the tank.
Could be the pump. Have you done a fuel leakdown test? With the engine off, turn the key on/off several times to get max fuel pressure. Ford's specs say you should lose negligible fuel pressure after 5 minutes. IIRC, it's something around 1psi/min. If you're losing more than that, you may have a leaky injector.

I'd also cut an access panel in the floor vs dropping the tank. I've had to use my access panel multiple times. I've had new "OE" Delphi fuel pumps die after just months of use. You can swap a pump in 5-10 mins with an access panel.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
only reason why I’m thinking about dropping tank is just in case it has a lot of trash clogging screen.
pump is holding pressure pretty good and has good pressure most of the time but seems to get worse the more and harder you drive it.
 

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You could say the two are related. You have a pressure drop from before but did it drop because the engine died or did it drop with it running?

I still say drop the tank and see if you got a clogged fuel sock. Take a mirror and look inside to see if you have rust. Mine did when sitting with very little fuel. Put a bunch of nuts and bolts inside and shook the you know what out of it. neighbors were looking at me like WTF is he doing now?:cool::cool::cool:
 

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I'd flush the lines. Go ahead and get another fuel filter - if trash in the tank was pumped out, it's already trashed the new filter. Have you tried disconnecting the line from the rear of the fuel filter, put the line in a bucket and jumper the fuel pump to see if there is trash coming from the tank?
 

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Discussion Starter #66
I haven’t but I went ahead and got a new pump and sock filter. Going to replace this week when I get time and see if that does it.

I guess the good thing in all this is that I have replaced most of the common problem areas for these. So hopefully won’t have many issues going forward once I get this issue resolved.
 

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Not sure if this fits this thread but my '94' is leaving me stranded by not starting after it dies when going somewhere.
It has been sitting tor 6 months with the exception of me driving and cranking it on my property.
I've changed out complete Distributor, ignition coil, due to rust build up on the winding's or cooling fin's. Checked fuel pressure and was fine but after running 10 to 15 mins., it will start to miss and then die. Such a pain in the ass what an I missing. Oh yes codes 32, and damn if I can member the others but I address them and still the problem occurs.
 

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I haven’t but I went ahead and got a new pump and sock filter. Going to replace this week when I get time and see if that does it.

I guess the good thing in all this is that I have replaced most of the common problem areas for these. So hopefully won’t have many issues going forward once I get this issue resolved.
even if you drop the tank i would strongly recommend cutting out an access point. had to replace my pump in my 88 but had to take it back out before i was finished, it's really a life saver. Plus new electrical parts aren't worth a shit,especially if they bought they cheapest pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Ok I cut the access hole, made me nervous using a side grinder right above fuel tank but got it done. Tank looks clean and pump/sock looked good but replaced anyway. Stuck it back in and fuel gauge is jacked up. Guess the float is hung on something. Glad I cut the hole even tho it pained me. I’m gonna patch hole back and give it a run tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Got fuel pump replaced, started it up and pressure overall seems a little higher. At rest turned off it was sitting at 30-32#, after getting everything put back together maybe 1hr later the pressure read about 18-20#. Is this normal pressure reduction? If not is it bad and what could be the cause. Only thing left is the injectors. I’ve replaced fuel pump, fuel filter and pressure regulator on the fuel system.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Ok looks like if you had “What is a fuel pump for $200” you’d be correct. Ran it pretty good today with no issues. Tank was clean, sock looked good, pump was about a yr old but guess they just don’t make things like they use to. Hopefully it stays good.
On to the next couple small issues.
 

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Ok I cut the access hole, made me nervous using a side grinder right above fuel tank but got it done. Tank looks clean and pump/sock looked good but replaced anyway. Stuck it back in and fuel gauge is jacked up. Guess the float is hung on something. Glad I cut the hole even tho it pained me. I’m gonna patch hole back and give it a run tomorrow.
You'll be so glad you did. I cut the access panel on my bronco before I owned it :cool: Well the deal was made during a BBQ outting but I went to work on it immediately the following day and got the new pump in and drove it home. The rest is history. If and when I have to replace the pump it's already done and I won't have to be worried about if I'm going to SPLODE cutting into the bronco just above the fuel tank ;)
 

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Ok looks like if you had “What is a fuel pump for $200” you’d be correct. Ran it pretty good today with no issues. Tank was clean, sock looked good, pump was about a yr old but guess they just don’t make things like they use to. Hopefully it stays good.
On to the next couple small issues.
It's sad you can't trust new parts anymore. I always try to find the most expensive one now just so I have a chance it would break in a few months.
 

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I'm glad it looks like you've got it resolved.

Ok I cut the access hole, made me nervous using a side grinder right above fuel tank but got it done. Tank looks clean and pump/sock looked good but replaced anyway. Stuck it back in and fuel gauge is jacked up. Guess the float is hung on something. Glad I cut the hole even tho it pained me. I’m gonna patch hole back and give it a run tomorrow.
Everytime time I see that someone uses a grinder I cringe. The hoses & seal on the tank can't even be seen until you're done cutting. There are safer ways to do this.

I know it's too late for this project, but for anyone else cutting the access hole this thread fuel pump access panel has become sort of a gathering place for fuel pump access info. Read the whole thread & look at the different options given for cutting the access hole before proceeding. The 1st post, the video, & Steve's link all use a grinder (I think Steve had the tank out at the time), but there are at least 3 other options given throughout the thread.

My apologies @Kactuskiller for the lateness of that link. There's 2 similar threads running & I keep confusing which one has which info. I'm glad you got thru it without getting "blowed up".
 

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I'm glad it looks like you've got it resolved.



Everytime time I see that someone uses a grinder I cringe. The hoses & seal on the tank can't even be seen until you're done cutting. There are safer ways to do this.

I know it's too late for this project, but for anyone else cutting the access hole this thread fuel pump access panel has become sort of a gathering place for fuel pump access info. Read the whole thread & look at the different options given for cutting the access hole before proceeding. The 1st post, the video, & Steve's link all use a grinder (I think Steve had the tank out at the time), but there are at least 3 other options given throughout the thread.

My apologies @Kactuskiller for the lateness of that link. There's 2 similar threads running & I keep confusing which one has which info. I'm glad you got thru it without getting "blowed up".
I looked up the measurements online before I did mine, wasn't taking no chances lol
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I had a fire extinguisher beside me and cut shallow as possible. Still nicked the vent tube as it was right against the metal. Just wasn’t anything else to cut that thick of metal with. Not something I would want to do often as the pucker factor was high.
 

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I had a issue with the PIP inside the dizzy. The dizzy shaft showed signs of wear and would not spin freely ( slight drag). This caused some heat to be generated inside the dizzy shaft .. that would cause the PIP … to heat up and send bad info to the ICM. Caused some hesitation during acceleration at higher speeds ( shaft turning at a higher RPM).

took a while to figure it out... since no check engine light … But eventually it did get bad enough to throw a code. Hard to trouble shoot a failing electrical component that only fails when hot.

keep the thread active with the solution .. when found


I have seen the same concern and had the same thing happen to my 94 5.0 mustang
 
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