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Discussion Starter #1
Well guys I am in the process of replacing the clutch on my 78 Custom. Anyway I ordered the LUK clutch kit from JBG, and it came with a oil pregnated one piece brass clutch pilot bearing. I also ordered a Timken pilot bearing at the same time, not knowing my clutch kit came with one. Anyway I was wondering which one you guys thought I should use.

Haynes specifies to use bronze one piece one, the Chilton doesn't say anything about it.

Here's a pic also to check them out. Thanks

 

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That would be a tough decision for me.
The bronze one is what the factory used in 78.
However, the roller bearing is what's used in
later model clutches, and would be considered an upgrade.

I think either one would do a good job, and it wouldn't
really matter if those trans and transfer cases weren't
so darn heavy to R&R (in case you wanted to change back).

I'd probably use the (more robust) bronze pilot, along with
a dab of high temp grease in the back of it.....


Almost forgot; whichever type you choose, put the bearing in the freezer
for a couple hours before installation and it'll push right in....
 

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If it is "Made in USA" Use the bearing. Most good pilot bearings outlive the clutch and trans.

If the bearing has a "made in china" on it, use the bushing.
 

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If it is "Made in USA" Use the bearing. Most good pilot bearings outlive the clutch and trans.

If the bearing has a "made in china" on it, use the bushing.
The bearing in the picture says USA. I have always used the roller bearing type in my rigs, and never have had problems. It's as reliable as the installation and maintenance in my opinion.
 

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Good pictures Jeff, thanks. :)

A rear bearing on a Ford alternator is the same size as the inner bearing part. :)

I'm trying to figure out a way to use those instead of the crappy little rollers
they put in the pilot bearings now. You can see what crap they are, couldn't
be more obvious, they couldn't put shorter rollers or a fewer number than
that and it still work -at all-. ...so there you are, minimum quality! :(

I figure a good used bearing set out of an alternator would be better than a
brand spanking new one of those things and at some point I'm going to try it.

Ordered a rear alternator bearing from Rock Auto and it looks the same. :/
Don't look like any alternator bearing I ever saw when rebuilding one.

In the meantime I'm using a 6003 ball bearing but I wouldn't recommend it.

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Read where the Kevlar pilot bearings work great for anywhere it -ain't- dusty.

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I like to recommend a 6303 ball bearing for FE engines tho! :)
BTDT and it works great, 6303's are big tho compared to tiny little 6003's.

6303 is 17x47x14mm <- FE's and FT's
6003 is 17x35x10mm <- 351w's etc

6203 is 17x40x12mm
A 6203 bearing is used in the front end of a Ford alternator and is the most
commonly used ball bearing size in the world. :)

Tinkering fool in AZ
 

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I have always used the roller bearing type in my rigs, and never have had
problems. It's as reliable as the installation and maintenance in my opinion.
Yeah but. ;)

The one that came out of my parts truck also had a brand new clutch in it
and the pilot bearing was already showing signs of trouble. The outside of
the race was very slightly bulged by the tiny little rollers. That is my -only-
experience with a Ford pilot bearing other than an FE.

1 out of 1 and it sucked, see? LOL :)

Alvin in AZ
 

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If you think about pilot bearings a minute, they only load/spin when the clutch is actuated. That's not a lot of run time compared to any other rotating piece of the drivetrain so the service life should be very long. I replace the pilot bearing as part of a clutch change, inspect and lube whenever I have access to it. It's too easy and cheap not to.
 

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If and when the roller bearing fails it chews up the end of the input shaft. The bronze bushing lasts as long as the clutch.
 

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AKA: Butthead
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If and when the roller bearing fails it chews up the end of the input shaft.
The bronze bushing lasts as long as the clutch.
x2

And I can see those hardened little rollers with nothing but plastic keeping
them from going sideways and being real good little shaft grinders too. ;)

The bronze oil-lite bearings work fine if everything is lined up good. :)
Soak it if you want, but 30wt non-detergent oil only on that thing, ok? :)

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'75 F150 360FE T18 bought it new and it's got the original engine and
bellhousing and T18 and the clutch in that sucker was acting funny the first
time I drove it off the dealer's lot for a test drive. Special ordered it.

My 360FE's bellhousing ain't straight! :/ All makers have had trouble with
this and Ford more so than the others, I've read. It'd only take about 20k
to beat the oil-lite bearing out from 17mm to about 3/4". :/ The 6303
ball bearing stopped that business, next step is to use a dial indicator and
fix it right. :) But still use a 6303, which Ford used in the FT's sometimes.

Last time I took my bad-acting clutch apart I didn't do anything other than
change to a 6303 ball bearing. That was friggin tough to do you know it? ;)
Not resurface the flywheel etc, just put it back together as an experiment.

But it paid off! LOL :)

Next time do the whole thing (as always) but first, fix that friggin crooked
factory bellhousing.

BTW, the 385 engine family could also use a 6303 ball bearing.

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Funny but on old air cooled VW's they had a real nice looking needle bearing
pilot bearing and I never saw one of those go bad or ever need replacing!

They were simply a cage plumb full of needle bearings with a felt ring to
reduce the amount of dust getting into it.

Alvin in AZ
 

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i've always used the bushings on my trucks. heck, the only time the input shaft is spinning in it is when the clutch is in, so i wouldn't worry about putting in a bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Jeff where you at? :)
<---Don't be so stinkin lazy, fill out your stuff! :/

Butthead in AZ
Yea sorry bout that. I'm in Orlando, FL

Well you guys have all made this decision easy, I'm going with the 1 piece bushing that came with the kit.

On a side note, anyone have interest in the bearing? With shipping it back to JBG, the restocking fee, and all that crap I'm looking at just a few bucks.
 

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Yea sorry bout that. I'm in Orlando, FL {Cool, thanks. :}
On a side note, anyone have interest in the bearing?
I say hang on to it for now.

May be never, but the hope is to find a quality replacement
needle bearing to stuff into the spacer. :)

If I find one I'll post the information/URL in this thread. :)

Alvin in AZ
 
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