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Mostly Highway/Road driving. Light trail/Beach.

I want to invest my money in the better product. I like the looks on both.

Let me know your thoughts :) Thanks.
 

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Eric
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I, actually, have the Black M/T Classic III's (15x8) on my BKO. I purchased them back in October. I like them. Lighter weight with an increased load capacity over my old wheels. Machining and finish were great. No issues or complaints.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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I've owned mt classic 2s and have the procomps now. Not much difference IMO. Procomps are cheaper. Mt has better center caps
 

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Engineer
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Classic III's if you ask me. 17x9. As I recall they have more offset than the 1069's too.







 

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I chose the 16X8 1069's and very happy I did.
Quality seems very good, was not sure about the looks of the center caps, but once installed I like them.
Back space of 4", -11 offset.
Running 285/75/16's with no rub of any kind, and I'm pretty sure I run
315/75/16's with no rub, plenty of clearance from the radius arms.





 

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Classic III's if you ask me. 17x9. As I recall they have more offset than the 1069's too.







What size lift are you running? I was looking at the 17 x 9's over the weekend...
 

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Engineer
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Engineer
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The only complaint I have with the classic III's is the size of the lug nut hole. With the stock 13/16" lug nuts a thin wall chrome 3/8" drive socket is needed to remove nuts.
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0 M/T, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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Old thread bump.

I've been looking at Pro Comp 69's, aka 1069's, and M/T Classic III's, trying to decide if I want to go that direction for better backspacing. Everything I've seen on the Jeep and Toyota forums echoes the general sentiment here: quality is a toss-up between the two, so go with whatever you prefer. The PC's appear to be near-identical knock-offs.

One thing troubles me, though. If you look at the specs for 15x10 in both wheels, the PC's have a max load rating of 2200 lbs while the M/T's are 2500 lbs. I'm not sure of the exact figures, but Amazon lists the shipped weight of the PC at 20 lbs, while M/T lists their wheel at 19 lbs. (I purchased a 15x8 Pro Comp for my spare, and it was spot on with Amazon's shipping weight.) So, the weights are at least comparable and the M/T may be a bit lighter, meaning it's not beefed up to achieve that higher load rating.

(My tires are 2205 lbs max, so the PC max isn't a current limitation.)

Is there any plausible conclusion other than the M/T actually being a higher quality wheel? Trust me, I'm trying to talk myself into the Pro Comp's being equal, considering the 70-100% price difference...
 

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It could be the level of conservatism/liberalness the OEMs take with their ratings. I’m not aware of any standard that would govern how manufacturers develop load specs. I’m also not familiar with the tire and wheel design world.

If the wheels at least met my tire and/or rear axle ratings, and it’s a toss up on all other criteria, I save the money and put that toward the next upgrade.
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0 M/T, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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It could be the level of conservatism/liberalness the OEMs take with their ratings. I’m not aware of any standard that would govern how manufacturers develop load specs.
I considered (and dismissed) that angle because Pro Comp's reputation would lean more toward the one being overly optimistic with load ratings. So, for M/T to be 14% higher max load, I've gotta think the real difference is 20+ percent.

I’m also not familiar with the tire and wheel design world.
With the designs being about as equal as it gets, I'm guessing the difference comes from the strength of the alloys, i.e., how each company is forging them and how many recycled cans go into their respective mixes.

If the wheels at least met my tire and/or rear axle ratings, and it’s a toss up on all other criteria, I save the money and put that toward the next upgrade.
That's kind of where I'm at, but I've been known to overload the cargo capacity... I'm not sure whether it's better to have the tire or wheel be the first point of failure?
 

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I’d bet good money neither company owns anything upstream of final machining operations for their wheels. May come from the same foundry for all we know. Even that wouldn’t exclude design or composition differences being responsible for the load differences.

I will guess that ProComp has sold a lot of those wheels probably even in the size you are after. If I thought my use case for the Bronco was uniquely heavy relative to all the other users of those wheels, I could see stepping up. But if not, and the internet isn’t screaming about wheel failure, I would feel comfortable with the Procomps.

Wish I had some actual facts. Keep us posted on what you pick up and how you like them!
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0 M/T, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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I’d bet good money neither company owns anything upstream of final machining operations for their wheels.
Yeah, that's supposedly true for most of the mainstream wheel manufacturers these days, using China-produced blanks. But, as you referenced, there are still different specs by brand, such as Motorcraft making many parts there now but having more stringent QC.

I will guess that ProComp has sold a lot of those wheels probably even in the size you are after. If I thought my use case for the Bronco was uniquely heavy relative to all the other users of those wheels, I could see stepping up. But if not, and the internet isn’t screaming about wheel failure, I would feel comfortable with the Procomps.
For sure. To clarify what I'm getting at... I suspect the Pro Comp's would be perfectly adequate, and definitely easier to replace if there were a failure, but how much better are the M/T's, and does that make the extra cost worthwhile? Is a 2200 max load wheel capable of 3000 lbs? Is the conservatively rated limit well beyond anything I'm likely to throw at it? Just trying to get at the essence of whether the two brands are really as comparable as most feedback indicates.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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16,814 Posts
Yeah, that's supposedly true for most of the mainstream wheel manufacturers these days, using China-produced blanks. But, as you referenced, there are still different specs by brand, such as Motorcraft making many parts there now but having more stringent QC.



For sure. To clarify what I'm getting at... I suspect the Pro Comp's would be perfectly adequate, and definitely easier to replace if there were a failure, but how much better are the M/T's, and does that make the extra cost worthwhile? Is a 2200 max load wheel capable of 3000 lbs? Is the conservatively rated limit well beyond anything I'm likely to throw at it? Just trying to get at the essence of whether the two brands are really as comparable as most feedback indicates.
Just tossing this out here... I have these unknown brand USA made wheels and no use for em. They are 15x8 though, 3.5" BS, 2500 lb rating, powdercoated back sides. Tires shown are junk 36x12.50x15 They might be from eagle alloys. Idk. I went to 16x8s in the PC 1069.





Shoot me a PM if interested.
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0 M/T, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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Just tossing this out here... I have these unknown brand USA made wheels and no use for em. They are 15x8 though, 3.5" BS, 2500 lb rating, powdercoated back sides. Tires shown are junk 36x12.50x15 They might be from eagle alloys. Idk. I went to 16x8s in the PC 1069.
Thanks, I'll give that some thought. I know Eagle does make a 8-hole bullet hole style wheel, but I thought the holes are bigger like Pro Comp and M/T. I prefer the non-polished look of those unknown wheels, but I like the bigger holes on the polished ones. Six of one, half dozen of the other...

My main reason for looking to switch to 15x10, as long as I'm considering different wheels, is it's a better width for my tires. I bought my General Grabber AT2's at Discount Tire, and they list the rim width range as 7.5" to 11", so my 15x8's just squeak by. However, I noticed recently when looking something up that General lists it as 8.5" to 11":


Either Discount Tire had it wrong (I've seen lots of tire weight discrepancies), or General updated the specs. Either way, 10" would obviously be better, being in the middle of the range. (Oddly, that chart also shows 33x12.5's as the only 15" tire with a 35 psi max. I've always thought it to be a crazy low max, but now I'm wondering if it's a typo on their part that has trickled down to all the distributors. All the other 15's are a more sensible 44-50 psi. Even the DT tech when I had a screw hole plugged was surprised that he had overinflated at 45 psi.)
 
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