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Discussion Starter #1
Been looking at a few on ebay (around $600) and then one on www.eatmyshift.com monster transmission (around $900). My son and I want to go wheelin. Bout time to get the Bronco up and running again.
 

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I have and electric BW1356 that I am taking out of mine I can sell you cheap if your going to be down in the DC area anytime. ITs got about 150k on it and still works. Just PM me if your interested.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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man, $600 bucks sounds like a lot of coin for a t-case..why not score a used one and do a rebuild?
 

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FSB's Dirty Jersian
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If you are going to buy a tcase new, go with a 205. A little bit higher gearing, but worth the reliability IMO.

Also if you are set on buying a 56 TRY TO FIND ONE WITHOUT THE SLIP YOKE! They differ all the time, I thought 250's for sure came without them, but it turns out some bronco's did and didn't some 250's did and didn't. I haven't been able to find a definitive yes or no as to when and what models. I think it differs on packages & Gvwr's.

My recommendation is 205, 203, or if you are set on a 1356, no slip yoke...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
man, $600 bucks sounds like a lot of coin for a t-case..why not score a used one and do a rebuild?
Dont have the means or the motivation right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you are going to buy a tcase new, go with a 205. A little bit higher gearing, but worth the reliability IMO.

Also if you are set on buying a 56 TRY TO FIND ONE WITHOUT THE SLIP YOKE! They differ all the time, I thought 250's for sure came without them, but it turns out some bronco's did and didn't some 250's did and didn't. I haven't been able to find a definitive yes or no as to when and what models. I think it differs on packages & Gvwr's.

My recommendation is 205, 203, or if you are set on a 1356, no slip yoke...
Im set on an electric 1356. This one lasted me through years of abuse.
Already have it out since it started to sound like a train and the electric
motor hasnt been able to shift it for a while. I just want to replace it and go.

Ive no slip yoke and in my opinion its a low geared light weight tcase.
 

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FSB's Dirty Jersian
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Im set on an electric 1356. This one lasted me through years of abuse.
Already have it out since it started to sound like a train and the electric
motor hasnt been able to shift it for a while. I just want to replace it and go.

Ive no slip yoke and in my opinion its a low geared light weight tcase.
Why not go with manual then? Electric is the sole reason why it won't shift I'm sure. I'd do 1356, no slip, manual shift & manual locking hubs. Best combo IMO for reliability with that set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Why not go with manual then? Electric is the sole reason why it won't shift I'm sure. I'd do 1356, no slip, manual shift & manual locking hubs. Best combo IMO for reliability with that set up.


Ive had a hard time coming across the shifter and necessary linkage that
goes along with having an AOD transmission and a manual 1356. True Id
prefer this setup but the trucks been down long enough for such an
insignificant reason. I ran the truck with electric shift and manual hubs for
a while and then once it wouldn’t shift (even after a brand new electric motor)
I removed the motor and hammered a socket on the shift knob and shifted it by hand.
 

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Manual is the way to go if you can swing it. Electric stuff fails and can be difficult to troubleshoot at times.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Problem is there is only so much I can do in my condos parking lot. According to the association we aren’t suppose to work on ANYTHING
at all there.

Friend of mine was a mechanic and we would use his shop in the past. Thats
how I got the truck to where it is now. Unfortunately he changed professions.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Im just trying to avoid getting one in the same or nearly the same condition as mine.
 

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Im just trying to avoid getting one in the same or nearly the same condition as mine.
Is it really worth all that money to you though? I know how you feel about getting it done right, but you could buy a used case and rebuild kit and still be way under $600. You could then sell or dump your old one. I've never done one, but looking at guides online rebuilding t-cases doesn't look that difficult. One question though, if you don't have anywhere to work on your truck, how/where are you going to swap in the new t-case?
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,026 Posts
Problem is there is only so much I can do in my condos parking lot. According to the association we aren’t suppose to work on ANYTHING
at all there.

Friend of mine was a mechanic and we would use his shop in the past. Thats
how I got the truck to where it is now. Unfortunately he changed professions.
pulling it with you and a friend is pretty easy. find a place to drain what fluid you can in a container, and take her on inside:

Spare bedroom years ago when I did mine:


and Here ya go, this ones inside taking a shower:


great learning experience, and if you get a reasonable miles manual you shouldn't need much. Less than $600 for sure.
 

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Premium Member
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pulling it with you and a friend is pretty easy. find a place to drain what fluid you can in a container, and take her on inside:

Spare bedroom years ago when I did mine:


and Here ya go, this ones inside taking a shower:


great learning experience, and if you get a reasonable miles manual you shouldn't need much. Less than $600 for sure.
I've got a manual 1356 to replace my auto and was meaning to tear it apart and do a rebuild. What kit(s) did you use?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Is it really worth all that money to you though? I know how you feel about getting it done right, but you could buy a used case and rebuild kit and still be way under $600. You could then sell or dump your old one. I've never done one, but looking at guides online rebuilding t-cases doesn't look that difficult. One question though, if you don't have anywhere to work on your truck, how/where are you going to swap in the new t-case?
Im looking at other options now. I do work on the truck in the parking lot
I just cant to anything major and leave it apart with a bunch of parts lying
around. Ive pulled the case there and rebuilt wheel bearings and replace
axle shafts and u joints stuff like that is fine but pulling trans or motors or
fabing up shit wont fly.
 
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