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aka: kemicalburns
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take this time to replace the battery cables, starter cable, paint/clean the cross member etc... Having the engine bay clean will really help when stabbing the motor
 

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Discussion Starter #42
take this time to replace the battery cables, starter cable, paint/clean the cross member etc... Having the engine bay clean will really help when stabbing the motor


Thanks @TravisITGuy. Is POR-15's 3-step the recommendation or a single step converter for hitting the cross member?

Anyone have experience with this?



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Discussion Starter #43
...not even going to have an ETA on shipping until Sunday... <sigh>

Hopefully will get the first round of pictures tomorrow though.


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Discussion Starter #44
Couple pictures of the rotating assembly...





...that's all for now. Hopefully an update on ETA tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #45


ugghh... assembly has not even started.

Builder hopes to ship next week. Waiting on final freight estimate from Rhode Island to Virginia to figure out just how late.

Really down about the delay. Had expected to be dealing with the install this week and gave up a paying gig to be in town... enough scratch to have paid for the engine:brownbag
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Latest word, engine is supposed to be here by Thursday of next week.

Meanwhile, coat of high-heat paint on a pair of BGY Extreme Duty Poly Motor Mounts just came out of the oven. I’ll snap some pictures tomorrow once they are reassembled.

Really like these and the fact they are rebuildable. Wonder if I could find red poly bushings? That would look cool...

Also picked up a new dipstick, dipstick tube and thermostat housing - all NOS Ford parts. Orey has little rust, but oddly the dipstick is in rough shape :dunno
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Here is to hoping this is the LAST time I drain oil from the air filter...



Cheers!!!


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So... while we are all waiting... how is the engine bay coming? Perhaps sharing the menial work will inspire some of us... and maybe pass the time.

BTW, what paint did you use on the intake? I may have to get some of that for other bits in by engine compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
So... while we are all waiting... how is the engine bay coming? Perhaps sharing the menial work will inspire some of us... and maybe pass the time.
I know, right? The wait is killing me as well! I’m still driving the truck, so won’t have access to do much. Fortunately the engine bay is in reasonably decent shape.

If it helps, here’s a quick shot of the engine mounts coming out of the oven...



I thought about going through and posting up everything I’ve done on the truck in the past year, but all I really have are a bunch of photos of me flipping off old parts that have been pulled: sixlitre tune, vacuum lines, steering wheel, heater core, head lights, grill, door felts, window motors, door locks, shocks, springs, wheels, drive shaft, stereo, CB and just about every sensor under the hood and who knows how much else... wait I replaced a taillight bulb yesterday!



BTW, what paint did you use on the intake? I may have to get some of that for other bits in by engine compartment.

Little reluctant to pass this along, but the builder sent me this picture:



It’s not high-temp paint, but it’s what he used on the lower. I like the color (a lot) and it laid down beautifully over an etching primer when I did the upper. Just not certain how it’s going to hold up. Time will tell if VHT’s Nu-Cast Aluminum (SP995) would have been a better choice.
 

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That will be fine; I've painted many motors with automotive base coat-clear coat to match the vehicles exterior and it has held up well. You really only need the high heat for the exhaust manifolds, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #51
That will be fine; I've painted many motors with automotive base coat-clear coat to match the vehicles exterior and it has held up well. You really only need the high heat for the exhaust manifolds, etc...


Thanks @cobrajoe. Good to hear. Matte Nickel Metallic isn't a color I would have thought to even try, but I'm pleased how it turned out.

Off to pick-up break-in oil and filters...


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Discussion Starter #52
Not how I expected this trip to go...










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Discussion Starter #55
Rut roh, how the hell did that happen?
Somebody screwed up...


When I bought the truck almost a year ago, part of the deal was having the fuel pump replaced.

Of the 8 bolts and nuts that mount the tank and skid plate to the frame, the 4 center bolts were missing entirely. 3 of the 4 outer bolts were missing there nuts and the 4th nut was loose - so loose it fell off when the Bronco was pulled on the roll back.

Coincidence? No and the shop I purchased the truck from didn't think so either.

Frustrating that it happened, but I have to give credit to them for owning it. I'm down only the time and hassle, but no $$$.

Fuel filler hose split when winching the truck off the wrecker. Shop was unable to source a universal hose locally that would fit.

Lower hose is obsolete with FoMoCo, but LMC has it (and oddly cheaper than JBG).

Should have the truck back early next week. Just in time for the engine swap...

Whew... @slawson2000, not my idea of passing the time while waiting!

And that's why they call it a "Skid Plate"!

Yep! Pretty sure it wasn't Ford's intent, but I'm not complaining!!



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Somebody screwed up...
Sounds like they didn't screw it up, literally. lol

I was gonna say, I replaced my tank and skid plate and I put on new hardware and there's no way that mine would come off like that having all those bolts in it. At least it's being taken care of!
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Engine Break In Oil

Who knew choosing oil could be so complicated... something to pass the time while we wait on the engine to ship and parts from LMC.

When asked about oil, builder replied “15-40 diesel oil, has everything good in it for break in”.

I like the answer. Traditional , common-sense, no weird additives and a recommendation you see fairly often even for flat-tappet cams. Fortunately with the roller cam going into the Bronco, there is less concern for wear during initial startup and break in which makes this choice even better.

Ah, this is where a “Type A” personality makes things difficult: which 15w40? Common recommendations in the past were Shell Rotella T and Chevron DELO 400. That was 2 years ago before the API superseded their CJ-4 standard with CK-4 reducing phosphorus (and zinc) - the good stuff that prevented high pressure wear on things like flat tappets. Even Ford had a hissey fit about excessive wear and created their own standard.

Thanks go out to @Labnerd91EB and the discussion here https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/15-general-discussion-bronco-wheeling-related/479386-synthetic-oil-bad-older-engines.html. Not only incredibly informative, it provides a link to The Petroleum Quality Institute of America, that gives independent, comparable data to base a decision on.

I know it will disappoint some, no spread sheet, but Ford Superduty Formula 15w40 Diesel Motor Oil retains more of the “good in it for break in” than any of the current crop of diesel oils. It’s not inexpensive at $30 for 5-quarts... unless you pick it up at Walmart for $18.36! $3.97 for a tried and true Motorcraft FL-1a filter? Picked-up a few of those as well...



Less than a week to go. Meanwhile, still looking into post-break in conventional oils and wether I’ll stick with conventional or switch to synthetic at 6,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Few photos from the builder this evening...







Got the truck back earlier this evening. Glad that's done and stoked with the engine progress.


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Discussion Starter #59
Just crawled under the truck. Holy cow... doesn't look like those bolts are coming off anytime soon!! LOL





Probably should crawl back under there and hit 'em with some Rust-Oleum just to keep them from rusting.

EDIT 8/17: nah, going to do it right and replace with the correct grade 8 bolts and shoulder nuts.
 

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Nice, a true double roller timing chain too.
 
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