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1989 Bronco, Eddie Bauer, Raven Black
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@justin @jermil01 How difficult is it to separate the tub/body?
I'd wire wheel what I can from underneath and POR15 it. Then address the many issues, like front suspension, shocks calipers etc. I've wire wheeled under a car before and it's no fun but doable and cheap.
 

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It's not hard, you just need space to keep it all out of the weather. Pull off the hood and front clip (fenders and radiator core support). Remove the fiberglass top and I would take the seats out to lighten the tub as much as possible. Disconnect harnesses, linkages, etc. Disconnect steering column. Pull up the carpet up to get to the body mount bolts, remove all of those.

Lift up the rear of the tub enough to get a steel or wood post between the body and the frame. Do the same to the front. Support posts with blocking and lift each corner high enough until you can roll the frame out from under it.

If you have a typical 2 car garage, back it in so you can roll the frame out from the front. So you don't have to go high enough to clear the motor.

Build a rolling cart to sit the tub on so it is mobile.



If you are going to go through the trouble and money to get this thing running and looking like new, don't stop short by just reaching what you can from underneath. You will live to regret it.


I would also sand/media blast it if I went that far.

Or call one of those dustless blasting companies...they will come to you and would be worth the money considering the time savings.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
 

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1989 Bronco, Eddie Bauer, Raven Black
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@justin Thxs. Since the OP is looking for a shop, I would assume that may be more than he’s willing to tackle. But agree, that is the only way to properly restore and address all the issues. It’ll be costly though.

One of these days I’m going to do do just that on my FJ40...but that’s a small vehicle compared to a FSB.

It would be nice if the OP got his original owner truck looking like the day he rolled out the dealer.
 

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Original owner: 1995 XLT 5.8L, 4wd shift on the floor, manual hubs
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Discussion Starter #24
As I'm sure most of you deal with, there is the line of wants, needs, and what the wife will support. Luckily the engine and tranny run super smooth. The body rust is limited to the normal spots and isn't beyond some cut and fab, though one shop wanted all new metal (faster and less labor). I'm in the process of talking to some locals that can help, shops, etc. and weighing the costs to include time. Not afraid to jump in and do what I can but I also know a long home based project is a nonstarter on the homefront. Scraping and treating the rust I see and can access, not afraid and already just getting the loose stuff off.

Interior is almost like new, minus a dip stain from a bud from spring break 95! No cracks on the dash, thank you sun shades, seats and armrests pretty intact. Just those damn rocky mountain winters.

I'd love to get it almost like it was when I bought it, except to get the lift and a few other items I couldn't afford then...

Thanks for all the advice to date! Slightly daunting but I figure write the wish list, seek advice and hell, just time and money right....lol. sure could use that lottery right about now!
 

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Original owner: 1995 XLT 5.8L, 4wd shift on the floor, manual hubs
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Discussion Starter #25
x2..If you're planning on keeping it the body is going to need to come off to do the frame right..
After many hours it appears that the only 2 bad areas are the core support and rear sill. Core supports all appear to be on backorder these days so will wait to order one. The rear sill, well, it is just by the panels so going to have someone look and see if they can cut and weld that area. The rest has all be scraped and wire brushed....now to degrease and use rust reformer before I paint. Can't find a shop here that will do a body off or even consider it! So my knuckles have been pretty banged up these days as I hit all the nooks and crannies.
 

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Tough call. This will NEVER fetch $20,000 at Barret Jackson....frame is too rusty to be considered mint
Thats not to say the frame is bad for a daily driver....probably last 10 yrs or more is you are smart
Scrape the flaking paint on the underside and use either POR or spray it all with oil like NHOU
Body: Yes, original metal always fits better
You need to buy a CAPA certified fender, door, etc
There is a MAJOR difference between the $99 fender and the $450 CAPA fender
 

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Original owner: 1995 XLT 5.8L, 4wd shift on the floor, manual hubs
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Discussion Starter #27
Well my pink slip says 23,500 and I figure I've had more than that much in fun so...
 
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