Overhead switch panel build

4327 Views 17 Replies 11 Participants Last post by Fireguy50, Mar 28, 2009

amtarsha

Discussion Starter · Mar 23, 2009

3

So I'm working on an overhead switch panel for all my accessories. Some of the things I've created switches/fuses for are future mods to be done and not on the bronco yet.

I just wanted to share some pics of the progress, this will be mounted to the roof where the typical overhead console would go.

1. Fog Lights
2. Rock Lights
3. Offroad Lights (A-pillar)
4. Reverse Spot Light
5. Cargo Controls (enables cargo area control panel I'm building)
6. E-fan
7. Winch Enable
8. OBA

on the left side is momentary push buttons for winch in/out, and on the right is a fuse for each circuit, but I had to order 5 more.

Hopefully I don't add much more to that, I'm running out of room!

The switches aren't very straight because I really suck at making square holes, even with a dremel.

On to the pics:

-Alex

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1 - 18 of 18 Posts

TdmayfieldIV

· #2 · Mar 23, 2009

nice, have fun with all the wiring:thumbup

waugello

· #3 · Mar 23, 2009

That looks pretty nice man. Good idea. What did you make it out of? Where do you plan on running all of your wires?

amtarsha

Discussion Starter · #4 · Mar 23, 2009

TdmayfieldIV said:
nice, have fun with all the wiring:thumbup

The interior of the panel is completely wired, minus the outputs to the accessories, besides the routing of all the wires, it will be straightforward, just time consuming.

Future additions:

-Dual battery selection switch
-Front/Rear Locker switches

I just need to figure out how/where will be convenient to mount that stuff, I've run out of room on the face of the box, so they will likely go on the side that is between the winch in/out and the fuse panels. I also need to decide on what style switches to use for these devices.

I'm picky about appearance (although you wouldn't have guessed by the crooked switches)

waugello said:
That looks pretty nice man. Good idea. What did you make it out of? Where do you plan on running all of your wires?

Thanks, likely out of the bottom side towards the windshield and behind the trim.

-Alex

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waugello

· #5 · Mar 23, 2009

So did you fab the box or buy it?

amtarsha

Discussion Starter · #6 · Mar 23, 2009

waugello said:
So did you fab the box or buy it?

Sorry, it is a project box from radio shack, about 7 bucks, I just cut/drilled holes for all the switches and such.

amtarsha

Discussion Starter · #7 · Mar 25, 2009

So, except for E-locker, and dual battery selection switches to be added in the future, I'm finished with the box.

I need to now run the wiring out of the box and it got me thinking.

I have 16 total wires to run in/out, to include the future add ins.

I'm looking for some sort of multi-pin connector solution, so that I don't just have 16 wires running out of this box in a wire loom.

I would really like to use a cannon plug like we have on alot of the equipment at work.

They look like this:

I'm having a hard time finding an 18 pin solution (a couple extra slots in case of future expansion)

If anyone has any ideas for a good multi-pin connector of some sort that I could use, or a good place to get cannon plugs, I'd love to hear it.

It must have one that is for the wires running out, and one that is panel mounted for the box,

Thanks all!

-Alex

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Bronco4Life

· #8 · Mar 26, 2009

http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=12 :thumbup

I'm sure Fireguy could probably get you other sizes too. There's gotta be something in between the 6 pin and 22 pin.

Traveler

· #9 · Mar 26, 2009 (Edited)

2

Looks like a nice clean setup.
The switches may be off a little now, but when you get it mounted nobody will ever notice it.
We had a hard time finding a plug that, like you, had enough pins, but was small enough to hide behind the headliner, or in the box.
We gave up and hard wired everything.

We found 24 conductor wire from MSC industrial, or maybe grainger. Can't remember for sure it was 18 guage and each wire was numbered all the way through. It worked great, We were able to tuck it behind the A pillar.

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Liftedbroncboy

· #10 · Mar 26, 2009

stangmata said:
Those crooked switches would drive me insane. Looks good otherwise :thumbup

haha i was thinking the same thing

amtarsha

Discussion Starter · #11 · Mar 26, 2009

Oh, they do drive me nuts, I just know I will make it worse if I try to fix it. Eventually I'll replace the cover, when I have a good way to keep the holes straight.

For now it would be a waste of money as I can't seem to cut a straight square hole for the life of me!!!

:banghead:banghead

-Alex

Liftedbroncboy

· #12 · Mar 26, 2009

hahaha

amraam840

· #13 · Mar 27, 2009

Nice, I like it. Post pics of the cargo panel when you get that done.

spaustin889

· #14 · Mar 27, 2009

amtarsha said:
I can't seem to cut a straight square hole for the life of me!!!

try these things called a rulers and pencils next time. :rofl:

patsmx5

· #15 · Mar 27, 2009

Nice.

Couple things note worthy...

I'd have a relay panel for all the devices I planned to control. And have the fuses at the relay panel of course. You supply fused switched +12V power to the relays.

Then all your switches are just turning the ground side of all the relays on and off. This means you can run say a cable with twenty 24 gauge wires and a 16 gauge ground to the switch panel. Every switch gets a ground on one side, the other side goes to whatever relay controls that device.

This is how OEMs do it. Keeps it simple, safer, and reduces cost. Win-win-win.

You can buy small cheap plugs at any good electronics supplier. It comes with the connectors and pins and you just crimp the connector to the wire and snap it in the plug.

amtarsha

Discussion Starter · #16 · Mar 27, 2009

spaustin889 said:
try these things called a rulers and pencils next time. :rofl:

Try this thing called a ball-gag next time. :goodfinge

I'm not stupid, I just have a hard time keeping the router bit in the dremel from cutting too fast.

RLKBOB

· #17 · Mar 27, 2009

I was also thinking about the connectors like Ryan has on his site. If everything gets powered through relays you can have one heavier gage wire(fused or ckt bkr at power source) bringing power in to all the switches and small gage wires going from the switches to the relays. At least that would only require small wire from the panel to the engine compartment. Then you run the heavier power wires and ground wires directly to the relays keeping that all under the hood. You probably already knoew all that.
Don't worry about the switches looking crooked, it just doen't matter. I know, I'm the same way. Whenever you build something you notice all the flaws even if other people don't. But when you mount that overhead you'll probably be looking at it at an angle and only when you're actually flipping a switch. So once it's mounted you probably won't even notice and I doubt anybody else will(except all the critics on here).

Fireguy50

· #18 · Mar 28, 2009

This is what I did, the shelf was too low for me to see out cause I'm tall

the phone dates the pictures :histerica

Bronco4Life said:
http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=12 :thumbup

I'm sure Fireguy could probably get you other sizes too. There's gotta be something in between the 6 pin and 22 pin.

Not in the weatherpack lineup, but I do haev these
http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=13

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