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It's BTW Not AKA!
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Ok so I have decided to keep my truck and just get the paint and body work done. I am trying to do as much myself as I can to save money. I plan on takin out the tailights, rear bumper, toolbox, bedliner, mirrors, fenerwell trim and masking the front lights and grille. Then, I plan on sanding the truck myself in shop class. This way all the paint shop will have to do is some minor bodywork and prime and paint. Does anyone know how much I can expect to save by doing this? I also am going to tell them not to paint the inside of the bed as a spray in liner will be going in in the spring. Thanks for any replays you guys may have.

Also, different shops have qouted dofferent prices. What can I expect to pay for a good(not crappy but not show worthy) paint job? What have you guys paid for yours and where? What else you would you suggest replacing during a paint job? Thanks again.
 

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you might need to find the shop that will be doing the painting. the paint needs to be compatible with the prework products you are going to use. you save most of the labor on fixing things if you do it your self. paint prices flex so much hard to say what a good job would be...i shooting mine flat black so i can do spot repairs and touchups fron trail damage. you might look for a 1day or erl schibe and go as cheap as possible if you plan on trail running it often. it is up to you and your needs...mike
 

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Keeping products the same is a good pratice but as always there is room to play around a bit.

Cheap paint will cover over just about anything but a quality paint will not go over cheap paint, it will lift. How ever if one is to seal the prep work with an epoxy sealer like PPG product called DP. This will seal the prep work from the finish work but the stuff is not cheap.

Depending on how much body work you need you can spend any where from $500 and up for materials alone.

When painting and I need a cheaper product I like to use the Nasson line from Dupont. The Nasson clear is great stuff to work with and it sprays really well and it does not seem to run like other clears I have used.

If there is no body work needed such as dents or rust and you remove all of the trim and such then you can greatly lower your cost. The labor to remove and install all os this is a fair amount of the paint bill.

Do you want the door jambs painted? there will be other questions the painter will ask you or should. Don't assume that things will get done if not asked. If the painter says yes I wil paint it then that could leave the door open. Cover every little detail just to be safe. You will get a better feel for this as you visit each shop.

It's best to talk to all of the shops in your area and see what they are willing to do as far as working with you. I would also ask for references. People can get taken for a ride if they are not careful. Ask how long it will take them and I would not put down more than half the money and the rest when you are satisfied with the job.

If you can find some one that paints on the side you could get a much better deal and the work could be better than from a shop. Shops are more worried about profit than they are about the work done or some are. This is where the refernces will help.

I paint in my garage and do pretty good work. I could almost paint full time if i wanted to as people have come to know I care about my work and go that extra mile. here's a few pics of what I have done.
http://home.comcast.net/~grabblue65/customer_projects.html
 

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If you can find a paint shop that carries PPG you can use their budget line called OMNI. The mp182 is great urethane surfacer. wet sant everything with 320 before you give it to the painter and you might scrup everything with a red scotchbrite and some softscrub to get it squeaky clean before you drop it off. the best advise I can give you is discuss what the painter wants you to do before you drop it off. I used to only have guys strip parts and trim before they brought it over, they never sanded well and usually used cheap tape that never wants to come off. Talk to the painter before you proceed. BTW, if you do decent prep you can't beat maaco for a cheap shoot. 300+- is a bargain. I usually used between 300 and 700 just on paint materials alone depending on the job.
 

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Practicing Infidel
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If there's very little damage to your body

and good hand block sanding will go a long way towards making it look good and ensuring no orange peel effect. Very few reasonably priced body shops will do a good sanding job. The owner, with patience and will, can do better.

If your paint is thick and old you could start out with 220 and finish with 320. Move the block front ot rear and never up and down.


Sixlitre
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys I appreciate the replys. I am going tomorrow to get the estimate from a few different shops.

I wanted to do the sanding on my own becuase, as mentioned above, I feel like I would do a more thorough job on my own truck. I will post up what each place qoutes me at tommorrow
 

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It's not the PSI it's the CFM that counts and every spray gun is different. It would be best to look up the specs for the gun you have or wish to buy.
 

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RTM said:
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If you can find some one that paints on the side you could get a much better deal and the work could be better than from a shop. Shops are more worried about profit than they are about the work done or some are. This is where the refernces will help.
That is waht I did, found a dude that retired from the business and does custom jobs for show vehicles. Most shops quoted me $2500-$3500 to do the paint and prep work alone. I got everything from hail dent removal to tailgate repair and good quality PPG paint for under $1500.
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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Discussion Starter #10
Got a qoute. With me taking off bumpers, trim, emblems, mirrors, lights and putting them all back on afterwards, as well as sanding, the price was $1000 to to do the body work and paint. I thought it was a pretty good price, Should start the process by early Febuary
 

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Dead Horse
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LukeNukem said:
If you can find a paint shop that carries PPG you can use their budget line called OMNI. The mp182 is great urethane surfacer. wet sant everything with 320 before you give it to the painter and you might scrup everything with a red scotchbrite and some softscrub to get it squeaky clean before you drop it off. the best advise I can give you is discuss what the painter wants you to do before you drop it off. I used to only have guys strip parts and trim before they brought it over, they never sanded well and usually used cheap tape that never wants to come off. Talk to the painter before you proceed. BTW, if you do decent prep you can't beat maaco for a cheap shoot. 300+- is a bargain. I usually used between 300 and 700 just on paint materials alone depending on the job.
yeah, i used omni, its a good deal and it tunrned out great!
 
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