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hey everyone,

So now that it's tax season, i'm looking to repaint my bronco. I am doing all work and paint myself. I plan on repainting the truck to FACTORY (or extremely close to) color. my Bronco's color is dark green, an tan.

I'm looking for paint that'll last another 20 years or more (depending on abuse of course).

SOOOOO...

Heres the Question(s)...

1. What brand paint do you use (or prefer)? (i live in VA so Waterbased or Low VOC is not a must)

2. What stage do you use? (single stage, or Basecoat-Clearcoat, or other)

3. Where do you purchase?

4. What type of primer is best or works best for that paint? ( i have to sand to bare metal in some spots so i know i'll need self etching then some primer surfacer or something to that effect)

5. How DIY friendly is it? (i kno single stage is most DIY popular, but just give your 2 cents)

6. Average cost to paint entire vehicle? (not including primer, filler, sand pads, ect..)

7. What is your least favorite brand? (not looking to bash, just opinion)

8. What size spray gun tip size do you use? (I just got a cheap kit for christmas that includes touch up gun, basecoat-clearcoat gun, and primer gun. all of which i think are 1.4 tips. ill check when i get home)

9. Any tips? (tricks of the trade, ect)

10. Pics of your paint job? (of course)

Thanks everyone! looking forward to see what yall have to say!!
 

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I have been friends with 2 body shop owners, 1 in Ohio, 1 in Va. Both used PPG products.
Based on both, I like PPG products. They are good quality and more importantly, provide excellent technical support......even to a DIYer. The local PPG tech actually came to my house to look at a pearl paint job I did to help resolve an issue.

I would pick the brand most popular and easiest to get in your area. If most of the shops in your area use PPG, I would use it.

Whatever brand you pick, stick with it and don't mix brands.

When I painted my Bronco the first time I used a single stage paint. It was an acrylic urethane that has been since discontinued. It wore like armor, but high VOCs.

The second time I painted it (after restoring the sheetmetal) I shot it in 2 stage.

If you peek at my build thread about page 8, you can get an idea. http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53363&page=8

Comparing the 2, I liked the 2 stage better. It allows for correcting any problems with the color before the clear. It's also pretty easy to correct if one screws up the clear. If one screws up with single stage, it requires waiting for it to partially cure to correct.

Either case, bugs are drawn to the clear and it easier to sand the clear and correct. Hard to do that with single stage if they fly into the first coat. (get a bug pick)

As far as primer, I use PPG DP-LF line of epoxy primer. It comes in different tints and has good corrosion resistance. They recommend 2 coats on bare metal. If you are going green, DP40LF is greenish. The same primer serves as a sealer when diluted.

I've used several lines of their primer surface. I like the gray colored K-36 and K38. I've also used their NCP250, but it shoots like a milkshake unless it's thinned. Depending on the condition of the metal, you'll need to decide if you need high build or not.

I bought all of my products at a PPG dealer - (autobody supply place). I like to deal with the same outlet every time, as they get to know you and eventually will throw in goodies/freebies or cut you some slack on other things. Paint is one thing, but the peripheral items cost money too. Guns, extra tips, strainers, stir sticks, measuring cups eat up $$ too.

As far as other materials, I will shop for price on-line for stuff like sanding or grinding discs or tape and tools. You can save some $$ if you are not in a hurry. I use a 6" D/A sander and pretty much figure 1 box each of 80, 180, 320, & 400. Finer if I plan on buffing. A lot will depend on the condition of the sheetmetal/old finish. If it's not all chipped / dinged, you can probably get by with less. I do enough refinish work to merit buying a full box. Oh, get at least 6 3M scuffing pads.....the maroon ones. Very handy in hard to sand areas like door jambs. If you are not going to jamb it, they also make a product you can tape to the jamb (hood, door, tailgate) to keep overspray out of the vehicle. It's a fat roundish seal.

Price of paint.....plan on $100 for epoxy primer, $100 for primer surface, and at least $125 for paint. I usually plan on $800-$1000 for materials. Top coat paint is the most expensive. White's the cheapest and blue is close to the top. Not sure where green is.

As far as tips.....it depends on what you are shooting. Heavy primers need 2.0. I have a dedicated primer gun for that. (It's a PITA to me to switch tips and I have a nice allowance) Single stage is around 1.2-1.4. I've played with several lines of guns. None of mine are really expensive, but not cheapies either. Devilbiss has some pretty good combination guns. You can spend a lot on guns, but if you only paint one car, it's hard to justify. I also dedicated a gun for clear....at the recommendation of both body shop buddies. It was a wise move. I have picked up a particular "style" and each gun is set to my habits. It sure makes painting easier. Besides, I like tools.

Tips? #1 and most important, prep is the most important element to a great paint job. Everything will show. Don't think that the paint will cover-up or hide anything. Supposedly....white hides bodywork. To me, it is much harder to shoot and match. It still shows bad bodywork. Darker colors show bodywork, but are easier to paint. They also are more forgiving when debris lands in your wet paint.

Get a good mask
Get a Tyvek suit.
Buy several boxes of latex or equiv gloves.
Make sure you have all the product you need BEFORE you start. Activators, reducers, thinners, strainers, sticks etc.
Don't paint at night.
If possible, don't shoot clear in your own garage.
Cover EVERYTHING from overspray.
 

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Forgot.....filler / putty. I have always heard the debate.... filler over bare metal then primer or filler first, then primer?

Best recommendation is prime the bare metal first. Small areas of bare metal are ok to put filler over first, but it's best applied over primer. PPG recommends overnight "cure" before applying filler over epoxy primer.

Reason for priming bare metal first is to avoid putting filler over bare metal which is a magnet for moisture and rust. That could get trapped under the primer.
 

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Forgot.....another "tool" I like is the Devilbiss Dekups disposable paint gun cup system. Saves time and makes cleaning up much easier. The offer smaller starter kits, which I got with a gun.

$_12.jpg
 

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Fwiw I'm getting ready to do mine. I've got some surface rust to contend with and am wanting something solid on the body. I'm going to use Monstaliner in midnight blue. I've talked with the owner and per his recommendations I'll be using a 2k epoxy primer over the entire vehicle. All surface rust will be sanded to bare metal first, then coated in the liner. Total cost for all products will be in the 475 range with extras included.
 

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RM paint is also great stuff. RM and PPG are the most popular paint brands used by body shops for standard paint jobs. The RM can be a little cheaper than the PPG, but both will be a significant cost. I went to my local PPG store and got a quote on paint. One was for PPG the other was their budget brand paint.

At least this will give you an idea how paint prices compare to your location. Bothe are PPG paint though just a different series.

Expensive stuff


Cheaper stuff

Also here is an estimate I got from a local body shop. This price assumes, that I strip the truck, and have it blasted to bare metal. I also had a bit of airbrush work I wanted done too, so you can subtract that.
 

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Looks like I was a little light in my cost estimate. I can't find my last receipt for DP, but in 2006 it was $126 a gallon!!
 
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