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Discussion Starter #1
I just called to order panel adhesive to install repair panels.
I talked to my body guy I have used for 16+ years and is always up on the newest technology and tried most of these products himself.

I asked him about the 3M panel adhesive. His response was how long are you going to keep the vehicle?

He used the panel adhesive on his truck 10 years ago. He did everything he was supposed to do and then some steps that most of us would skip.
He said by 8 years the panels still looked perfect except the seam where the repair panel was glued on has bubbled up and rust is running out. By 10 years it is so bad there is nothing to repair or attach a new panel to.
So now he is either going to have to do extensive welding or give up.

He says the epoxy of course has moisture in it and that was trapped when the layers of filler and paint were put on it. It rots from the inside out and there is nothing you can do to stop it.

This is also on a truck that only comes out on nice days, so there is no other way it could have rusted.

We he conferred with the 3M rep about it their response was simply that it is not normal to keep a vehicle that long and not what the product was designed for.

Has anyone else here had panels glued on that long?
 

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We he conferred with the 3M rep about it their response was simply that it is not normal to keep a vehicle that long and not what the product was designed for.
was he high?never used any panel adhesives myself, but if i do......i will certainly steer clear of 3m.i would find out what the oem uses, and stick with that.
 

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I did all for the Nookie
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I'm sorry who would glue a panel on that could be welded on anyway. Now I know there are some fixes that are supposed to be better than welding but I have not actually witnessed them I consider them temporary repairs at best.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There are huge advantages to adhesive.
First off it is stronger than welding the panel on.
There is no warpage from the welding so less body work.
It is much cheaper then welding wire and gas, let alone time/labor costs.

I wish he would have told me the stuff is awesome and told me to use it.
 

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There are huge advantages to adhesive.
First off it is stronger than welding the panel on.
There is no warpage from the welding so less body work.
It is much cheaper then welding wire and gas, let alone time/labor costs.

I wish he would have told me the stuff is awesome and told me to use it.
how is it stronger than welding if it rusts out again in 8 years?
you wont warp the metal if you weld it right. you cant just put the metal next to eachother and weld the seem.....if you do it right there wont be that much more body work when its all said and done
 

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Age. Fac ut gaudeam
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I just took off a spoiler off a Suburban that had that stuff.(Literally, 5 minutes ago) You have to be careful taking off because it can remove paint, plus, it leaves a residue. A 1999 Suburban that had the stuff put on back in 99... Looked fine more or less. Parts of the spoiler just slid right off whereas others had to be carefully cut with a plastic putty knife.

Just weld it.
 

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VW uses some kind of adhesive to attach their fenders. Other manufacturers do too, but I took a Golf apart today so it reminded me.
 

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I did all for the Nookie
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It's not that I don't think there are places for this stuff I worked with Loctite for a couple years on an Dry Vacuum Pressure Impregnation machine that saved casting manufacturers hundereds of thousands of dollars thats a good application but the same group also tried to sell me on the notion that an epoxy was going to hold this steel beam on to a steel lid as good as a weld bad application. I laughed so hard on my way to get my welder that I cried. Thats all I'm saying its all about application yes the manufacturer may use it in there controlled, engineered process with the finest results. I think if your going to join two pieces of steel together for any reason a welding process is still going to be your best route money wise and longevity wise.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
how is it stronger than welding if it rusts out again in 8 years?
Welds that are not properly treated will rust out earlier than 8 years. So 8 years for some people is a step up.

epoxy was going to hold this steel beam on to a steel lid as good as a weld
Y'all are too quick to condemn what you don't understand and it makes you look a fool.

So how long did that epoxy hold the steel beam onto the steel lid? You never gave it chance did you. So you don't know if it is better or worse, so how can you bad mouth it?

The 3M panel adhesive has a higher tinsel strength then welding.
Meaning, you weld two panels together, and you glue two panels together.
The welded panels will pull apart before the glued ones will.
On this very site it is quoted as welds being 1,200 psi and adhesive was 3,000 psi. Tinsel strength.



you wont warp the metal if you weld it right.
Have you welded it right? Not had any warpage?
If so then you are a God and probably the first person on this planet to do it.
I applaud you.
Thanks, but I don't need any welding tips and I did not ask for any.

it can remove paint,
That is either not the same stuff or it was put on incorrectly. The panel adhesive is supposed to be put on bare metal only and it is only for steel panels, not plastic, or fiberglass or any other material. 3M makes some awesome stuff for fiberglass and plastic ground effects and panels.


Somehow I knew it was stupid to post here. I actually thought there were mature people with real world experience on this site.
Is there anyone out there that can just answer my question without speculation or debate or all this other BS which is doing nothing but wasting time and eating server space.

I will ask again.
Has anyone else here had panels glued on that long?

I will add a second question, is there anyone else in this thread that has been driving that long?

The rest of you, go to the political forum, that is where debate belongs.
 

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Thanks 351w500
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I dont know if its any help at all. the only person i know to have used it is my buddy chexmix on here. He used it to put on a rear replacement Q panel on his bronco but i think he only did it maybe 3 yrs ago.

Im looking for a Panel adhesive for fiberglass to metal. The rear Q panels on my 88 fourdoor have separated from the pillar and i think its going to be the only fix.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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There is no moisture in Structural Adhesive, and it's an encapsulator that will block o2 from reaching the metal. Your friend did something wrong, the rust was not caused by the adhesive.

Perhaps an area of bear metal that was next to the adhesive?
 

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Another thing i bet the Panel adhesive from 10 yrs ago and the Panel adhesive your looking in to now are not the same product.10 yrs leaves a lot of time for improvements.
 

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I'd say if you want to be sure, try to find out what Volkswagen uses. It was a 98 Golf, so thats 12 years, and the side that was glued, was a royal pain in the ass to get off. I ended up junking the fender, cause it was so bent out of shape by the time I got it off.
 

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[QUOTE=



Have you welded it right? Not had any warpage?
If so then you are a God and probably the first person on this planet to do it.
I applaud you.
Thanks, but I don't need any welding tips and I did not ask for any.

call me god then and i got pictures to prove it
 

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I did all for the Nookie
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I'm lost anyway I can't undersand if Traveler is amazed by this stuff or unhappy because someone told him don't use it. As for my experience with new adhesives I am split there are good ones but the cost to prep and pay for the stuff is a wash if your tring to beat out a good old weled joint in body work on a older car or truck and your not running big production jobs.

Oh and just for arguement sake I helped that rep apply the epoxy/adhesive just to satisfy his mind but 7018 rod just holds so much more weight per inch it's just hard to beat in that application plus the setup time is like 3/10ths of a second.
 

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I used some panel bond last year.

I don't know how long it will last but in hard to reach places and smaller applications it worked great.

I used the professional 5 minute panel adhesive, it was very easy to use the applicator is a special tool that measures out the correct amount, my supplier (Napa Canada Store Rep) lent me out the gun(it looks like a big caulking gun)

I spoke with several Auto body shops and techs they all had nothing but good things to say about the product, the funny thing was all of them added to their comments that the old stuff (from 10 years ago was crap) and that the stuff that is used now is great.

I've now driven my Bronco through one Canadian winter after being oiled(Rust Proofed (Oiled).

Lots and lots of salt used on the roads in my part of Canada.

No rust showing on any of the pieces that were panel bonded or anywhere else for that matter including the welded areas.

My pal that did most of the body and paint work explained in detail the prep is the most important part of the job, so we sanded and sealed the metal with the best sealer money can buy, I believe he was correct.

On my other Bronco that I have I will gladly use panel bond on the tops of the quarters and welding at the bottom of the quarter.

I think the fellow that posted it is the application that matters is correct.
 

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I've been absent for awhile, so I don't know if he is still active since I didn't see his name mentioned, but didn't Six-liter (spelling?) replace virtually his whole '85 Bronco body with new panels and adhesive? Seems like he'd be the guy to ask.
 

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I used JB Weld when I replaced my rear quarter panels and they are doing fine. Its been 6 years since they were replaced and only one little seam is rusting, but that was my fault, I didn't get enough adhesive there so the bare metal was exposed. The truck gets driven every winter too though the salt.
 
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