Performance 300 Build

39164 Views 108 Replies 23 Participants Last post by Scoop, Oct 19, 2017

AbandonedBronco

Discussion Starter · Feb 21, 2016

Hi all,

After having my Bronco for a good 10 years or so, I figure it's time to actually build myself an engine for it.

I originally planned to rebuild my engine about 3 years ago. I pulled the original engine out (at least, I think it was the original), only to find that it was already bored 30 over. I took the block down to the machine shop and they said that it was so worn out that boring 60 over wasn't enough to clean it up and the block was shot unless I wanted to pay to resleeve it. I figured I'd just find another block and took that one to the scrap yard. It does beg the question how many miles are on my Bronco though. The engine had already been rebuilt and then worn out to the point where it couldn't be rebuilt again. These engines are known for going 300,000 miles or more...

Either way, before I found another block, I lost my job and decided to go back to school for a second degree. After two grueling years, I
graduated last May. So now that I'm back working, firmly established, and moving forward, it's time to build my engine. :thumbup My Bronco's served me faithfully for 75,000 miles through thick and thin, so it deserves it.

I drive it everywhere, every day, to work and back, and out in the mountains to play, so I am keeping that in mind in my build.

I'd like to hit around 9:1 compression (nothing extreme so I can still use regular pump gas), a performance camshaft, larger valves in the head, some port and polishing. I already have a 4bbl carburetor and a good exhaust system, so that should already be good to go. I'd love to hit around ~200hp, ~350tq.

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AbandonedBronco

Discussion Starter · #2 · Feb 21, 2016

Here's the engine I started with. I bought it off of Craigslist for about $50 (delivered!) several years ago to drop in my Bronco when I pulled the original engine. It drove really well, had good compression, but was horribly noisy. When I bought a parts truck for my NP-435 swap, I dropped that engine in my Bronco (which is in there now) and pulled this one out. I pulled it half way apart to see what was wrong with it, but never found anything. Unfortunately, I got careless with it and left it outside for about a year with no head on it, so it rusted up a bit.

The flywheel is in good shape but rusted. I put a new clutch/flywheel/pressure plate in with the current engine so I may just resurface this one and stash it away.

I do NOT want to forget this when I put it back together! Been there, done that, it sucks.

Forgot it had oil in it, so I had a mess to clean up when I flipped it over:

Despite some rust, the engine turned over really easily. The bearings were nice and silver underneath, and everything looked clean.

For some reason, Supermotors doesn't keep picture orientation any more, so all of my pictures are landscape.
Either way, a 300 crank is extremely heavy.

A couple of the rod bearings were a little worn, but not too bad.

There was very little to no taper on the cylinders, so the pistons popped right out. I was relieved since the last time I removed the pistons from the previous engine, there was so much taper that it took a few hours to get the pistons out. This was about 5 - 10 minutes.

(The oil is from flipping it over)

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AbandonedBronco

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 21, 2016

Heard from the machinist yesterday. The crank was reground and cleaned up at 0.010/0.010. The block was in good shape and the cylinders cleaned up at 0.030 over. So it's all good to go to move forward.

So with 4.030" cylinders, I'll have a 304.6ci / 4.99L.

Close enough to be a true 5L.

445 FE Bronco

· #4 · Feb 21, 2016

1 HP per cube is very reasonable on a good build. There are several six cylinder racing sites out there, I have seen 300 sixes do 9 second quarter mile runs so a streatable one is within reason. You can get away with 9.5 to 10:1 with good fuel, port and polish the ports and polish/ CC the chambers. Stainless back cut valves with reduced stems will help with flow. The most gains will be found in the head work.Clifford Performance makes stroker kits up above 500 CI.

Scoop

· #5 · Feb 21, 2016

You know I'll be following this! LOL

AbandonedBronco

Discussion Starter · #6 · Feb 21, 2016

Scoop said:
You know I'll be following this! LOL

I figured you'd be along shortly.

:beer

445 FE Bronco said:
1 HP per cube is very reasonable on a good build. There are several six cylinder racing sites out there, I have seen 300 sixes do 9 second quarter mile runs so a streatable one is within reason. You can get away with 9.5 to 10:1 with good fuel, port and polish the ports and polish/ CC the chambers. Stainless back cut valves with reduced stems will help with flow. The most gains will be found in the head work.Clifford Performance makes stroker kits up above 500 CI.

I didn't figure 200hp would be very difficult to reach. It's a big engine, and was severally underpowered from the factory. I'd thought about going for more, but I also enjoy my 15 - 17mpg and don't want to eat into that too much. I figure with a healthy engine (my current compression is around 120) and a medium build, I'll have a dependable engine that I really enjoy driving, and still does well on the gas.

Otherwise, I'd love to go all out. I've seen some pretty serious numbers being put out by this engine, but my wallet just isn't that big. :toothless

Most of my work will definitely be in the head. It's the bottleneck of this engine. Just need to get it to breath!

jowens1126

· #7 · Feb 21, 2016

Hey AB,

congrats on shifting career gears successfully!

If you want a good reference, have a look at this Engine Power series on building a performance Ford Inline 6.

part 1
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part 2
http://www.powernationtv.com/episode/EP2014-04/hopping-up-an-old-skool-six-part-2

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AbandonedBronco

Discussion Starter · #8 · Feb 21, 2016

jowens1126 said:
Hey AB,

congrats on shifting career gears successfully!

Thanks! I owe so much of it to my wife. She encouraged me to do it, and then supported me the whole way through.

If you want a good reference, have a look at this Engine Power series on building a performance Ford Inline 6.

part 1
http://www.powernationtv.com/episode/EP2014-03/part-1-building-an-old-skool-six

part 2
http://www.powernationtv.com/episode/EP2014-04/hopping-up-an-old-skool-six-part-2

Thanks for those videos! I'm going to sit and watch them. They look great.

Reactions: 1

deadsquiggles

· #9 · Feb 21, 2016

Definitely following this. Almost considered building an EFI straight to put in place of my 302. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

jowens1126

· #10 · Feb 21, 2016

I love that show. Many people forget that all their episodes for as long as they have been on TV in which ever show they were called at the time are all available for viewing online. I go back and watch them all the time. Lots of good information shed in those videos.

foolish_mortal

· #11 · Feb 21, 2016

after owning several F150's with the 300 I never thought I'd seen one built to go fast LOL!
will follow

AbandonedBronco

Discussion Starter · #12 · Feb 21, 2016

foolish_mortal said:
after owning several F150's with the 300 I never thought I'd seen one built to go fast LOL!
will follow

With the current setup (old stock engine, 4bbl intake, exhaust, performance ignition) it already hauls! And that's with a 3.00 rear end and 32" tires. I drive on the interstate every day and generally leave everyone behind when getting on the on-ramp. :thumbup
They're a good engine. Ford just really under carb'd them.
With a full build, it should leave nothing to be desired.

445 FE Bronco

· #13 · Feb 21, 2016

I have seen the 300 used in a lot of industrial applications also, heavy forged parts such as rods and cranks can be found there. Here is a link to some heavy big cube stuff http://www.foleyengines.com/product...rial-engines-and-ford-industrial-engine-parts

jowens1126

· #14 · Feb 21, 2016

The build in those 2 videos came up to 205hp and 307 ft lbs of Torque. Plus all the extra machining work they did made it stronger and more dependable. I really like that build they did. If I still had my I-6 F150, I would have done the exact same build.

YatriSA

· #15 · Feb 22, 2016

I have always wondered what a 300 could do. Looking forward to the final product.

BigBlue 94

· #16 · Feb 22, 2016

YatriSA said:
I have always wondered what a 300 could do. Looking forward to the final product.

YouTube the "Frenchtown Flyer". He is a retired Ford engineer that drag races the 300 six, albeit with a factory crossflow head that was never " released" to the public.

AB, can't wait to see how this goes. Closer to a 5.0 than the 302 lol :goodfinge

91FordGuy

· #17 · Feb 22, 2016

Hey @AbandonedBronco, you're going to LOVE it .30 over. I had thought we the exact engine build before and for some reason I had thought yours was already bored over like mine. I cant wait to keep watching this build!

Just as an idea.. I had some road rage yesterday and dropped the clutch in first (t-19 tranny though) with the same engine, factory 3.50 gears and 35's and i broke both tires loose:thumbup

Here's a quick exhaust clip

AbandonedBronco

Discussion Starter · #18 · Feb 22, 2016

BigBlue 94 said:
YouTube the "Frenchtown Flyer". He is a retired Ford engineer that drag races the 300 six, albeit with a factory crossflow head that was never " released" to the public.

AB, can't wait to see how this goes. Closer to a 5.0 than the 302 lol :goodfinge

FTF is a great guy to speak with. I've picked his brain a few times over on the fordsix forum as well as on ford-trucks.com where I moderate the 300 forum.

I want that crossflow head...

It's interesting that the 302 is actually a 4.9L. (calculates out to 301.5ci / 4.94L) They just called it a 5.0 to differentiate it from the 300.

But it'll be cool to actually have a true 5L.

AbandonedBronco

Discussion Starter · #19 · Feb 22, 2016

91FordGuy said:
Hey @AbandonedBronco, you're going to LOVE it .30 over. I had thought we the exact engine build before and for some reason I had thought yours was already bored over like mine. I cant wait to keep watching this build!

Just as an idea.. I had some road rage yesterday and dropped the clutch in first (t-19 tranny though) with the same engine, factory 3.50 gears and 35's and i broke both tires loose:thumbup

Here's a quick exhaust clip
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQMFbuJtCE4

With as much as I've done, I've still only had a stock engine. Which is cool, because it shows how capable they are in stock form with just bolt ons. But man, I can't wait to see how it'll do with all the goodies on the inside. I probably won't be able to tell the difference with the 30 over with all the other stuff that's going on (head, valves, cam, etc.) but it's sweet to know it's there. :thumbup

That sounds really good!

AbandonedBronco

Discussion Starter · #20 · Feb 22, 2016 (Edited)

Update:

Went over to the machinist this morning and spoke with him.
Also, took some pics of the current progress. It's been bored out, but not honed yet. He also said the center line was in spec.

The rods were out of round so they need to be reconditioned. I'd love to go with some forged rods, but for what I'm doing, I don't think what I'm doing necessitates tracking some down.

Otherwise, I was discussing the head. He said he actually recommended the head with the pressed in studs vs. the newer pedestal rockers. He said since I'm using an aftermarket cam, shaved head and/or block, etc. with different dimensions than stock, it would allow a lot greater control over valve adjustment. The pedestal rockers would need shims, which aren't as easy to deal with.

Thoughts on this? I like the design of the pedestal rockers. First, they're bolt-in, so they seem stronger. And second, their motion seems so much smoother. I remember reading multiple times that the older style was prone to stress and cracking.

As for Port and Polishing, he said it generally runs around $600, which seemed a tad high. However, it seems like they do some quality stuff, as they provide flow rate data when they're done.

Next step is to bring a head down as he wants to measure it and see how much to shave/deck to get the preferred compression ratio.

Moving forward!

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