Reading the writing upside down, looks like Quik Trak.jerelight said:Nice install. I also have not seen that type of tube channel before. Most of the stuff I have seen uses wood and tin. At first I thought that you layed out plywood subfloor, they routed out the channels. But then I saw near the door a piece of scrap with a channel in it.
The product is Wirsbo Quick Trak. It's a plywood material that actually two strips that are joined with sheetmetal in the middle which is what makes the channel. You have to put it on top of a 5/8 min subfloor. Heat dissapation is'n t a concern the way you're thinking about. Remember the whole point of this product is to warm the entire floor. That way the heat is transferred all around the room. The way it works is why it's so important to have the right amount of tubing laid out. Too much is bad and too little is bad. The boiler he has is big enough since we're not really adding heat load. We just changed the type of heat in that room from baseboard to the radiant.Foghorn said:Looks like a nice install..... I've never spec'd that for install on one of my projects simply because most homes in the area don't have boiler systems. But I've always wanted to. I may do it when I decide to build one for myself here in a few years..
Couple a questions for ya though.... I've never seen it installed in lumber before?? Is that a channeled plywood bed? How does that work for heat dissapation? Better or worse than concrete? What type of flooring is going in over it?? Ceramic or??
And why did'nt they up grade the boiler with that install?? Seems with the increase in size they would have needed to upgrade the boiler also. But then again I know nothing about boilers. I just know that on standard HVAC if you add more space you need more output??? Thanks----Fog
Thats the stuff. But wow that's an expensive price. At my cost 6 pieces would be about $55. If concrete wasn't soooo expensive around here he would have saved money by laying it out and covering it with the concrete. Would have saved in labor too.Dustball said:Reading the writing upside down, looks like Quik Trak.
I'll be happy to answer any questions I can. I'm pretty sure there are a couple other people on here that are HVAC guys also so I'm sure you'll be pretty well covered.davids78bronco said:This is great.... I might pick your brain, when/if I can change my heat to radiant floor :thumbup
With this product you more worried about the total footage of tubing run not where it is. When a heat load calculation is done for a room it gives you the amount of Btu's needed to heat that space. Each foot of tubing is equal to "x" number of Btu's. We needed about 980 feet of tubing to properly heat this room. The problem with this flooring system though is that your'e limited to the design since you can only have about 240 feet of tubing per run. So for this room it actually called for 5 seperate loops. No matter how I figured it out I couldn't physically fit five loops so I came up with a 4 loop system that originally left us only about 100 feet shy of what was called for. However due to cost and time we wound up with this layout which was not the right thing to do. You have to think about the fact that the entire will be warm now. So really there won't be many cold spots. Heat rises so everything will be warm including the cabinets. That's how it works. Laying this stuff in concrete is easier for the layout cause you're only bound to restrictions of the tube itself and how tight the bends are you can make. If we had used concrete I could have gotten 5 loops and the full amount tubing layed down. Again though concrete is expensive and then he'd have to cut up the existing foundation slab.Joes93Bronco said:why go all the way to the walls? seems kind of a waste to heat under the applainces, counters, etc. most others radiant floor installs ive seen also look like they double up around entry ways since doors arent as efficient at blocking heat. that floor track took me off gaurd too. i also thought you must have routed it and couldnt believe the amount of work. is it better than concrete? a friend from work is looking at doing this in his house. he has added on something like 2500 square ft (was a small house one bedroom w/a loft) he wants to do the radiant in the kitchen and new living room. they have a gas fired on demand water heater. i know he has been researching this and any info i can give him would help out.
The bottom of the Wirsbo track is metal and beneath it is a 5/8 floating subfloor with about 1/2 airspace under it.trout8200 said:Looks good but what kind of insulation barrier do you have to stop the heat from radiating down. We sell a radiant heating system by roth. The panel they have is a foam backed panel with a grooved alum. panel on top for the tube to snap into. check out www.roth-usa.com they have some good info at there site.
http://www.wirsbo.com/index.php?id=7Joes93Bronco said:i know he has been researching this and any info i can give him would help out.