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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to help out an AZ guy lift his rig today and what do you know.....the pitman arm rears its ugly head again. Why must they be so difficult? We hit that thing with everything we had. Heat, PB, a 2 jaw puller, pry bars, a big effing hammer, a bigger effing hammer and a lot of curse words. We even tried cutting it off. No luck whatsoever.

Rivets blow too and we only had 6 to deal with.

No matter what project I'm a part of the pitman arm always kicks my ass. I never want to deal with another one.
 

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Whats never failed me yet... A big two jaw puller, put it on there and crank down on it untill you're just about to break the puller. Then spray down the arm and just let the puller sit on there. It will come off with a bang if you're paitent.
 

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I gonna put in a new steering gear pretty quick along with my sag swap. I think I'm gonna start sprayin PB on it tomorrow. We'll see if a couple weeks ahead of time helps matters any. But I also planned on buying a pitman arm puller.
 

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green ones make me horny
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Soa re you saying you dont want to come and help me with my lift?
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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How much change?
I dont remember but it was not cheap. i wanna say about a hundred bucks or more.. worth every penny though
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The arm was so far up on the splines we had to grind down the 2 jaw puller just to get on it. I've used that type of puller Dustin posted too and I'm not sure it would have worked here either. There was hardly any room to get any leverage on it.
 

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That sucks about your pitman arm issues. It's weird I line in MN and with all the trucks I have worked on I have never had a pitman arm give me issues.
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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The arm was so far up on the splines we had to grind down the 2 jaw puller just to get on it. I've used that type of puller Dustin posted too and I'm not sure it would have worked here either. There was hardly any room to get any leverage on it.
thats why I say its for ford boxes. they sit that high normally. This puller is thiner to fit and has alot more surface area so it does not break off. you need to unbolt the box to drop it down a tad to get it in there then hit that bitch with an impact and it will come right off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Maybe with dropping the box it would work. I'm telling you though, that bitch was STUCK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There just isn't much room under there to swing a hammer of any kind when the box is still on the frame.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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That's kinda why I took off the last three steering boxes I had to remove the pitman arm from. It's just too awkward IME to be under there trying to torque or bang that thing off. Three bolts, two lines, and a couple of bolts? Much easier than )%@$! #()$ )([email protected]#)!!! :D Also I have more confidence having my foot on the damn thing when it finally decides to go BANG! It just freaks me out when that happens and my head is close to it.
 

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I wish I would have taken a pic of it when we pulled the steering box out of it...the pitman arm looked like hell and still wouldn't let go....
 

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Crusher Mike
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We are going to press that Fawker off today. Those rivets were a bitch nuthin that the Duck couldnt handle they were still time consuming.
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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Maybe with dropping the box it would work. I'm telling you though, that bitch was STUCK.
I know been there done that. i just lowered the box a bit and used that puller on mine a couple times. easier than those junk 2 jaws
 

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We are going to press that Fawker off today. Those rivets were a bitch nuthin that the Duck couldnt handle they were still time consuming.
Take some pictures to post how "F"ed up the thing is
 

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I know been there done that. i just lowered the box a bit and used that puller on mine a couple times. easier than those junk 2 jaws
I'd say the 2-jaw is easier, then if it doesn't work move the box away and get the good puller. It only takes 10 seconds to see if it will break it free or not. But thats just what I would do.
 
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