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the bruise
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1,400 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i finally get the whole front hub assembly pulled out, put the new rotors on, regrease everything and now it wont go back together right. it seems like the body assembly ( I am going to be going by haynes manual terms) wont go in far enough for me to put the axleshaft snap ring back on. and haynes manual doesnt explain very well eactly how to take apart the dana 44 w/ manual locking hubs. please help i have been working on the one wheel all afternoon. oh and i have searched and searched and searched, and read every write up thats on here.
 

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the bruise
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1,400 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks man that worked! umm but now, for some reason, i got eveything put back together and the i cant unlock the hub. after everything is put together it stays locked. i greased everything and i dont have any parts leftover. i cant figure it out. maybe since its all new grease do i need to work it in some? any input would help. thanks guys
 

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Rest in Peace Friend...
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611 Posts
Wanna Bronco said:
thanks man that worked! umm but now, for some reason, i got eveything put back together and the i cant unlock the hub. after everything is put together it stays locked. i greased everything and i dont have any parts leftover. i cant figure it out. maybe since its all new grease do i need to work it in some? any input would help. thanks guys
By won't unlock, do you mean you can't turn the lock or that when you do the hub stays locked? How much grease did you use on the locking mechanism?
 

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..this is a common head slapper... before you put the snap ring on slide a large tool like the huge flathead screw driver through or against the area around the exposed u-joint behind your hub lock, you may have to learn how to work the screw driver with your feet (no im not kiding ) proper positioning and screwdriver size ( like the big one you use to pry hub caps off ) are essential, you have to pull the axle towards you from behind the rotor with the screw driver to get that extra 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch exposed on the axle, in the hub lock assembly ( tube ) ,a good dental pick set helps (on the snap rings) ( not really from a dentist they just call it that) ......and pay attention to the diagram of your particular hub lock i see alot of poeple put things back in, inthe wrong order and backwards.....(i guess i didnt type fast enough for this one either....) well if the other one still works carefully remove it again take carefull note of how the parts come out, use that info to redoo the side that doesnt work ...oh yeah like he asked did you refill the lock with grease ?...***the general rule on axle nuts (this is only winging it if you dont have the torque wrench...) snug it up,turn your rotor, it should move but not really free spin but not tight either, better a fraction tighter than it was, rather than too loose, its a sweet spot that is learned from experience, to tight you loose to loose you loose.....
 

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the bruise
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1,400 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
no it just spins back and forth but the assembly is locked on the inside.but first i cleaned everything with brake fluid cleaner (was that bad, it says it cleans grease with no residue) then i used generous amounts of new valvoline moly fortified multi purpose grease, made for ford, on everything even the axle shaft, the bearings, my whole body (damn that stuffs messy). it seems like the grease is making it sticky in there. and i didnt put as much in there as what was originally in there but i read somewhere that it doesnt need that much. and i am pretty sure i put everything together right but i will make sure to pay special attention to the other side today. and could it be the "C" clamp is doing it? it seems to be catching a bit but only in certain ways, and where do i get a new one, a parts store would they have it? thanks so much guys
 

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the bruise
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1,400 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok thanks so much dude. hey what is the required ft lb for the lock nut. i torqued it to 50ft lb and backed off some but now i dont think thats right. it should probablly be more. I AM SO PISSED i have this damn manual but it has like 5 sentences and no diagram for manual locking hubs. i am searching for dana 44 diagrams right now. thanks guys
 

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Are those REAL?!?!
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1,702 Posts
What brand hubs? And you only need enough grease on the hub mechanism to let it slide in and out... the wheel bearings, on the other hand... grease the snot out of...
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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16,204 Posts
The inner lock ring should be tightened to 125 ft lbs while turning the rotor back and forth to seat the bearing, seat the retaining ring then install the outter lock ring torque to 50 lbs then back off a 1/4 turn.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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sewiv said:
Errrr, that's backwards, I think. You've got your inner and outer switched.
Yea that does sound backwards.

Should be somthing like
tourqe to 150 to set bearings.
Back off 1/4 turn
tighten to 15 inch lb
and then tighten the outer to 80
(thats of the top of my head, those numbers are not correct)

The torque specifications are in the begining of the chapter that has directions for wheel bearing removal and inspection
 

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Gacknar said:
(thats of the top of my head, those numbers are not correct)

The torque specifications are in the begining of the chapter that has directions for wheel bearing removal and inspection
Yeah, look them up. I *know* you don't torque the inner to 150, that'd be bad. It's torque the inner to something between 35 and 50, spinning the rotor to seat the bearing, then back off a quarter turn, and torque to 16 in-lbs or something ridiculous like that, then add the lock washer, and the outer lock ring, and torque *that* one to 150 to keep it all in place.

Look it up, though. Don't trust idiots like me blabberin' on the Intarweb.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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16,204 Posts
My bad..:twak :twak ..I should have known better since I had to take my hubs off 4 or 5 times doing my SAS..I did have it backwards..sorry about that..:brownbag

Big Mike did a write up on this..see here, pics are gone, but the info is still good.

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1816
 

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Administrator
2012 Jeep JKU
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22,859 Posts
sewiv said:
Yeah, look them up. I *know* you don't torque the inner to 150, that'd be bad. It's torque the inner to something between 35 and 50, spinning the rotor to seat the bearing, then back off a quarter turn, and torque to 16 in-lbs or something ridiculous like that, then add the lock washer, and the outer lock ring, and torque *that* one to 150 to keep it all in place.

Look it up, though. Don't trust idiots like me blabberin' on the Intarweb.
iirc 50 pounds on the inner nut back off 1/4 turn then foward until the lock ring lines up...outer nut goes to 150...
 
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