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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I thought the Autolites were just coming way too small. Well I got some Motorcraft ASF42C spark plugs for my engine, tried gapping them, and again they only came at .040. I opened them up to .054, and the angle still seems to be too far off, unless it's just me. I've never done a tune up on a car/truck that ran a gap this wide. Does this look right? Am I doing something wrong or is my gapper gauge fawked?





 

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They look alright to me :shrug If .054 will fit with a drag between them it should be alright. I don't see how your feeler gauge can get screwed up. You using a .99cent key ring type?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They look alright to me :shrug If .054 will fit with a drag between them it should be alright. I don't see how your feeler gauge can get screwed up. You using a .99cent key ring type?
Yeah, just a round AmPro gapper gauge.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Yeah, that's really f*cked up, m4ng. They've got to be parallel. Are you using the proper part of the gauge to open the gap, or are you just pushing the plug along the gauge ramp? 'cuz if you're doing the latter... :twak
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, that's really f*cked up, m4ng. They've got to be parallel.
Screw this gauge, I'm gonna get one of the better ones that you pull the gaps out on. This one is good for a quickie to check the gaps, but not to open them.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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If you're going the wider-gap route, you should probably revert to a plug made for a wider gap, e.g. Autolite #665. They are made for a 0.060-inch gap, but are otherwise equivalent to Autolite #25.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you're going the wider-gap route, you should probably revert to a plug made for a wider gap, e.g. Autolite #665. They are made for a 0.060-inch gap, but are otherwise equivalent to Autolite #25.
Why the hell does Motorcraft specify .054 gap, then give you part #ASF42C which comes at .040?
 

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How are you going to bend something and keep it Parallel? I see your point, but this isn't a drag engine...
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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How are you going to bend something and keep it Parallel? I see your point, but this isn't a drag engine...
It is supposed to be parallel, or darn close to it.

Where are you getting the .054 from tough bronco? your motor stock would have a recommended gap of .042-.046 or at least the 351 uses this gap
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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How are you going to bend something and keep it Parallel? I see your point, but this isn't a drag engine...
That's exactly the reason they NEED TO be parallel. The gap you set it to is the narrowest part, so if they're not parallel, as soon as that smaller part erodes, your gap will increase in size very quickly. If this were drag racing, the plugs wouldn't have to last as long, so it wouldn't be that big of a deal. Also, he'd be using narrow center electrodes, so the effect of an angled ground electrode would be minimized.

You keep them parallel by using the bending tool properly. Bend the ground electrode outward with the fulcrum end of the tool near the base (where the electrode is attached to the shell). THEN use the tool to bend the end down toward the center electrode, this time using the tool to ONLY bend the business end of the ground electrode (somewhere around two or three millimeters from the end is good). You should be able to eyeball it and get within 0.010-inch or so, then use hand pressure against a countertop to get it to specification.

Motorcraft has consolidated their part numbers to the point it's difficult to get the right plug for the application sometimes. Champion is the only manufacturer I know of that hasn't taken this retarded route. Autolite tries, but their numbering scheme is so f*cked up, you need the damn .pdf in front of you to make an informed decision. With Champion, you immediately know from the part number what the plug is gonna look like and do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It is supposed to be parallel, or darn close to it.

Where are you getting the .054 from tough bronco? your motor stock would have a recommended gap of .042-.046 or at least the 351 uses this gap
My VECI sticker says .052-.056.
 

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I guess I have never had an issue :shrug I bend em and toss em in. Do you shim your plugs and align your ground so its centered twards the combustion chamber when you install your plugs too?
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Kinda hard to shim a taper seat. :toothless
 

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A little duct tape and bailing twine and anything can be done! :goodfinge
 

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I bang mine around a little to try and get em parallel, but if they're halfass close I just let em go...

It's never caused me a problem...


Quote Worthy?? :rofl:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah, that's really f*cked up, m4ng. They've got to be parallel. Are you using the proper part of the gauge to open the gap, or are you just pushing the plug along the gauge ramp? 'cuz if you're doing the latter... :twak
:whiteflag
 
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