Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am thinking about using POR-415 on some of the metal in my engine compartment. Air bracket assembly, vacuum reservoir etc..
Or use evapo-rust then spray paint with rustoleum. When priced out is about the same. Anyone have any thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
Do you mean POR-15?

Have you looked at Eastwood's Metal blackening system?
Seems a bit pricey, but might be more durable?
I'm still researching it all myself.
Prep work is key for any of these paint systems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Do you mean POR-15?

Have you looked at Eastwood's Metal blackening system?
Seems a bit pricey, but might be more durable?
I'm still researching it all myself.
Prep work is key for any of these paint systems.
I like POR15 for a few reasons:
  • It is thick and flows out well; fills and smooths, drys slowly so brush marks to disappear.
  • It's durable. It binds to the metal. Can't beat it off with a hammer.
  • A little goes a long way. 1/2 pint can will almost all or most of a bronco chassis
  • 1 coat is all you'll need.
  • Throw away brushes after use, you can't clean them.
  • Polyester brushes are inexpensive to buy (as opposed to say horsehair for latex)
  • I use 1" brushes almost exclusively. They gum up; so, I toss them frequently.
  • NOT for fine, detail work. This stuff is messy, sticky. Wear gloves.
  • Don't paint out of the can; it doesn't like oxygen.
  • Tightly seal and refrigerate unused portion.
  • Has short shelf life after open.
  • A little goes a long way.
  • You can spray it when thinned.
  • It is not uv resistant; so, you must top coat.
  • It's sold at Sherwin Williams. Run out and get more...

    I media blast almost everything. The instructions say you can paint over rust.
 

·
Addicted to Junk
Joined
·
10,840 Posts
I disagree on the por15 doing a whole chassis with half a pint. It does stretch, but not that far!

Good product, but expensive. Thin coats are better. It also cures in the can, and forms a shell on top, just fyi.

I would dunk them all in evap o rust then prime and paint with high heat paint. The evap o rust can be reused.

Any paint store can get it, as can any auto parts store, if they dont already stock it. I'd sell it at my paint store, but our cost is high and demand low.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
I would dunk them all in evap o rust then prime and paint with high heat paint.
I have a siphon feed spray gun. Could you recommend a commonly-available (ie: Amazon) primer and paint that will be durable, resistant to various engine fluids and engine bay cleaners?
I'll be using it in my engine bay/firewall, brackets and pulleys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yes it is POR-15. I just punted that editing. Dastad I didnt know about the short shelf life. I am thinking about getting the 3 Step Stop Rust System its about $30.
 

·
Addicted to Junk
Joined
·
10,840 Posts
Por15 will stay fluid, once it skins over. Just bust through the shell.

As for chemical resistant paint, that's a bit tough. An epoxy would be your best bet. However, some industrial enamels, like Benjamin Moore P22 urethane alkyd gloss enamel, are also up to the task. Its good for direct heat contact of 250°. Its is impervious to light chemical environments. We sell it to a cellophane plant. That's about as harsh as it gets, with sulfuric acid, glycol, hydrogen sulfide, etc being used there. I use it on everything that isnt car paint. Chassis, axles, bottom of my boat, trailers, etc. Its an oil based urethane so it dries slow, flows out beautifully, and dries to a rock hard shell. I'd run over stumps in my boat, and it would crack, but not fall off. And that was on 50 year old bare aluminum. Its relatively inexpensive at under $50 a gallon and can be mixed to any of like 5000 Ben moore colors and any other under the rainbow.

A zinc rich primer is the best option for bare steel.
 

·
Addicted to Junk
Joined
·
10,840 Posts
Polyester brushes are inexpensive to buy (as opposed to say horsehair for latex)
I know this isnt really relevant to POR15...

NEVER EVER use a natural bristle brush with a water based paint. Natural bristle includes horse hair, ox hair, and all China bristle (chinese hog hair). The bristle soaks up the water, and swells up. You'll never get it to shrink back down to a fine chisel tip again. And likewise, you never clean them in water. Always an oily solvent like mineral spirits or kerosene.

Bristle is for oil base.
Filament is for water base.

Ever try to use oil based deck stain with a nylon brush? Stuff just runs out. But a bristle brush holds that stain in, and puts it where you want it.

For POR15, I use a white china chip brush. They are cheap and are easy to throw away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Bugblue,
Not going to use on the chassis, just metal parts in the engine compartments like the battery tray.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
If you are starting with clean metal - me personally I wouldn't use POR 15. If you're doing a frame etc and it's stripped down, use a good epoxy primer and black base coat / clearcoat. It's durable, it's cheap, it's easy to apply and it's easy to do spot fixes. Powder coating (as in chassis parts) is pricey. Once damaged there's not real 'repair' but redoing the part.

For something that's cheap, durable and easy to spray - check out John Deere Blitz black.

I wasn't a fan of POR 15 for the money / time investment. It's not UV resistant - sun light WILL break it down so you need a top coat. It will get EVERYWHERE and the only thing that removes it from your skin is time.

For spot work (where you don't have full access to the frame etc) I can see the benefit of POR 15 or Rust Bullet etc.

Just my 2 cents.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
Chassis Saver silver is a great rust cover up. It has aluminized particles. It is not for coating clean metal but for rusted, not flaky loose rust. Basically knock off the loose rust with a stiff wire hand brush. It can easily be top coated with your paint of choice. Mine would be black Monstaliner. Monstaliner can be tinted to a variety of colors. It is tough as nails and flows out well. Great for those ugly battery trays.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
786 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
Did you have to use a topcoat for this like how POR-15 recommends for their stop-rust used on autos?
Yup, KBS needs a top coat as well if it needs to be UV Resistant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
786 Posts
yes it needs a topcoat however it will last longer with sun exposure than por. it will hold up in the sun but turns a chalky look. i painted a frame thats set outside for years and the stuff turned a chalky gray but has held up still. it stayed shiny black for about a year. i could still go over it with a top coat and it would look fine. por wont do that sadly and it cost alot more.
 

·
Ford-a-Holic
Joined
·
4,118 Posts
I've used POR and prefer the Rust Bullet, especially when you break out into different colors. I had used the black with good results so I tried painting my Detroit's with POR White and it came out horrible and believe it or not, it never dried. I took the open quart can back to the paint shop so they could show the salesman and they literally had the already opened can for two months before the rep came buy and it never even skimmed over. For those of you who have used POR know, it should have been rock solid after a week or two. Been using Rust Bullet ever since
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
786 Posts
I've used POR and prefer the Rust Bullet, especially when you break out into different colors. I had used the black with good results so I tried painting my Detroit's with POR White and it came out horrible and believe it or not, it never dried. I took the open quart can back to the paint shop so they could show the salesman and they literally had the already opened can for two months before the rep came buy and it never even skimmed over. For those of you who have used POR know, it should have been rock solid after a week or two. Been using Rust Bullet ever since
not tried rb but it sounds like its similar to kbs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
I'm guessing it's okay to do half a chassis.
Then wait a few months or years before you do the rest of the chassis?
No issues with scuffing up the paint at the end/edge, where you're about to start painting the rest of the frame?
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top