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92 Ford Bronco XLT automatic 5.0 engine swap. Manual 4x4 with auto locking hubs
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When ever I try to start when it's warm it takes a while to start and wants to die when it does. I omhed the sensor. At cold I got 39ish, and at warm I got 2.4. that tells me the sensor is ok, right? If it's ok then where do I look next? It a 92 302 automatic.
 

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Yo Rex,
Having issues with my pc.









Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader.....
167388
167389
 

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@Bronco rex - What Bronco do you have? your signature line says, "1992 Ford Bronco XLT automatic with a with an engine swap from a v6 to a 5.0, automatic transmission manual transfer case with auto locking hubs."
'92 Bronco's NEVER had a V6.
Try checking your fuel pressure, use the pressure relief valve and see if the stream of fuel when you bleed down the pressure is clear or has lots of bubbles. I had a fuel pump on my '94 that had internally failed and was mixing a lot of air in with the fuel. (I think the pump was cavitating and pulling in air.) Those bubbles would expand and make the machine hard to start when it was hot and first shut off. Wait about a half hour and it started great.
Here's what the fuel pump looked like when I took it out:

How it got that way I have no idea. There are lots of reasons for a hard start, but as you know how to use a meter, meter your ACT (Air Charge Temperature), I've never see one fail, but maybe it could confuse the PCM a little. If you take it out, be careful cleaning the little sensor, something like carb cleaner spray might work.
 

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Registered
92 Ford Bronco XLT automatic 5.0 engine swap. Manual 4x4 with auto locking hubs
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@Bronco rex - What Bronco do you have? your signature line says, "1992 Ford Bronco XLT automatic with a with an engine swap from a v6 to a 5.0, automatic transmission manual transfer case with auto locking hubs."
'92 Bronco's NEVER had a V6.
Try checking your fuel pressure, us the pressure relief valve and see if the stream of fuel when you bleed down the pressure is clear or has lots of bubbles. I had a fuel pump on my '94 that had internally failed and was mixing a lot of air in with the fuel. (I think the pump was cavitating and pulling in air.) Those bubbles would expand and make the machine hard to start when it was hot and first shut off. Wait about a half hour and it started great.
Here's what the fuel pump looked like when I took it out:

How it got that way I have no idea. There are lots of reasons for a hard start, but as you know how to use a meter, meter your ACT (Air Charge Temperature), I've never see one fail, but maybe it could confuse the PCM a little. If you take it out, be careful cleaning the little sensor, something like carb cleaner spray might work.
Yes I was mistaken with the V6. But the thing is it starts rough after it sits for half an hour. Like when I go shopping then come back.
 
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