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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Besides changing to a Sag, has anyone had anything positive to say about any of the PS Pumps sold at rockauto/o'reillys/etc? Ford vs other remans?

Extra info:
My original lasted 30 years and I have never had any issues with it. My wife drove the Bronco last month and she said the steering was "unsafe", guess I've gotten used to the little bit of slop. So tonight I replaced the gear box(Red Head) along with a full replacement of fluid and a "by the book" bleeding process. It was working great until I backed it out of the garage and it was almost like someone threw a switch, no Power steering! I think my old pump didn't like all that clean fluid. I'm letting it set over night, and going to do a little more testing tomorrow, but I am expecting that I'm going to have to order a pump. My truck is one of the most "Stock" Broncos around and I want to try to keep it that way. I'm not interested in upgrades, just trying to keep it as good as it's always been. It has never been an off road vehicle and although it can go anywhere, I don't take it on long trips anymore (I have other vehicles for that). Just a nice daily driver.
1990/5.8l/auto/31x10.5s/190K miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
First we flushed the system with clean fluid before we replaced the gear box. I wanted 100% clean system with the new gear box.
We bled the system, My Chilton manual says to pull the coil, hit the starter while turning the wheel 30 degrees each direction multiple times, keeping the fluid topped off. Then fire up the truck, and idle for 15 minutes while turning the wheel full range without hitting the stops (both directions) 1x every 5 minutes. No PS when I started, about 30 seconds (5th time cranking without coil) PS kicked in. By 7-8x, we'd put in about 1.5 qts, no leaks and everything was working well. Ran great, and no thrown belt, no crazy noises. Air is a possibility, which is why we are letting it sit overnight and try re-bleeding tonight. .
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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I had good luck for 2200 miles on an Advance Auto sag pump. Cant say about more because the rear brace bolt broke flush and started leaking. It was my fault for improper installation. So I replaced it with a junkyard unit i had laying around.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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4,747 Posts
First we flushed the system with clean fluid before we replaced the gear box. I wanted 100% clean system with the new gear box.
We bled the system, My Chilton manual says to pull the coil, hit the starter while turning the wheel 30 degrees each direction multiple times, keeping the fluid topped off. Then fire up the truck, and idle for 15 minutes while turning the wheel full range without hitting the stops (both directions) 1x every 5 minutes. No PS when I started, about 30 seconds (5th time cranking without coil) PS kicked in. By 7-8x, we'd put in about 1.5 qts, no leaks and everything was working well. Ran great, and no thrown belt, no crazy noises. Air is a possibility, which is why we are letting it sit overnight and try re-bleeding tonight. .
I would turn the wheel more than 30° - I go lock to lock back and forth several times. Don’t let the reservoir get empty as you go or more air will get in the lines.
 

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I have had times when I had to go lock to lock with engine running for several hours before the PS Pump stopped foaming... if you have foam in the reservoir, you have air in the system... once all the air is out you might have a few little bubbles around the edge, but other than that the fluid will look like it came out of the bottle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok I think we got the pump working. We turned the wheels lock to lock many times (20-30 minutes). We were getting some more air bubbles but it wasn't getting better. It seemed like a little throttle made it a little easier to turn. So after a few revs, I took it to 3K RPMs and like a switch it started pumping. You could actually see the fluid pumping in the reservoir. So between idling and a few 3K revs, it is working. For the record, I don't normally apply (nor do I recommend) higher RPMs to try to fix things, but I was to the point that I thought the whole thing crapped out. I took it on a good test drive and it seems to be working fine. I figure it may take a couple days/drives for it to get all of the air out of the lines, but I think we got 99%. I really appreciate all of the responses.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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I think sometimes, especially with a new steering gear, it takes a little more work to get the gearbox FULLY inundated with fluid since it likely has some sort of assembly lube in it or something, not to mention all new seals. Glad you got it going though.
 

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1984 Bronco, 4.9L, C6, 9", 44 TTB, 3.54 Gears
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I think sometimes, especially with a new steering gear, it takes a little more work to get the gearbox FULLY inundated with fluid since it likely has some sort of assembly lube in it or something, not to mention all new seals. Glad you got it going though.
With as much money as one can sink into these gears, pumps, and overall set ups, it’s worth taking extra time to make sure it’s ready to go and won’t overheat.

Glad you figured this out. Sometimes these issues can drive a person nuts. Haha!
 

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I have had times when I had to go lock to lock with engine running for several hours before the PS Pump stopped foaming... if you have foam in the reservoir, you have air in the system... once all the air is out you might have a few little bubbles around the edge, but other than that the fluid will look like it came out of the bottle.
My cousin got this new bronco project and he noticed the foam in the reservoir. We will work on it after we finished installing the new set of tires from 4Wheelonline. Got to remove the bubbles from the system.
 
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