Power Window Problems

Power Window Switch and Door Lock Switch panel

I also wanted to throw in the following problem that I have to deal with as well when replacing the worn torque pins:

The previous owner did the torque pin replacement fix on the driver's power window but broke the window and door lock cluster panel. It is just sitting in the door with no way to re-secure it to the door panel. I can see where this would be easy to break on 10 year old plastic, so is there a fix or do I have to order a whole new door panel?

I am getting ready to make the same repair on the passenger door and would like to know if I need to prepare to have the same problem over there as well.

Hope these help a little.

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=8571&s=28339#content

Adrianspeeder

You probably could have gotten away with just the torque pins for 3 dollars a set from napa. But it doesnt hurt to change the gear, its no more work.

Also some people have used fuel line with a metal dowel inside, cut to the size of the torque pins for a free fix.
-Will

I was able to use a couple of nuts about the same size as the bushings cost about 25 cents at the hardware store, I guess the gears will get torn up instead of the torque pins, but it was a cheap fix.

been a year and the fuel line rod fix is still working fine......mike

The window motor repair kit that has the Gear and Torque Pins - is it the same for the rear window and the front windows?

I will tackle this when I get back and have a good day to deal with it. I have to do the Passenger Window and Rear Window.

IIRC-pass side and rear are the same and the driver is reverse cut gears. you may need the pins only and those are bi-directional. ......mike

GreenEBBronco said:

Yall have no idea how appreciative that I am for all your help. My rear window motor stopped working, so I pulled it today and sure enough those plastic bushings had grenaded inside of it. I went to the parts store, they didn't have just the bushings...they had the whole gear kit for $20. I passed on that and got some heater hose and then came home and cut sections off a small bolt to go in the center of the heater hose. It works like a charm and has a little give, but I guarantee this will last alot longer than those plastic bushings. Thanks again

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Do you have pics in regard to what this setup looks like? Mine stopped working last week. If I can do this cheap...I say why not. Besides I need to get this thing done ASAP...getting hot and humid and the window is stuck shut! Thanks!

I got fed up, got some manual regulators from the JY, took the motors out, installed the manuals with handles from the "help" section at the Zone....no more problems...wish t e tailgate one were that simple...

imlikeojnow said:

yup gotta love manual windows. less shit to tear up.

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I just cant deal with all the cranking.....plus I can open or close the passenger side window while I am driving without having to lean all the way over there. I will take power over manual ANY DAY OF THE YEAR. Even more so now that I learned how to drill out the two pre center punched spots to get at the two 10mm bolt heads (the third one you can reach) and remove the window motor, change the torque pins, and re-grease everything, then put it all back inside a half hour. That has got to be one of the more well thought out maintenance items on the truck IMHO!

Sorry. lol Better?

I'm guessing it's supposed to be a tight fit then if I have to use a vise to get it in there.

tmwalmart said:

Sorry. lol Better?

I'm guessing it's supposed to be a tight fit then if I have to use a vise to get it in there.

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Mine were always snug alright, but then again "play" will only lead to wear. Do what Steve says and lather it in grease. If you're cold weather like I am, half the year, better make sure it's a synthetic grease that won't slow down as things get cooler.

Let us know how it works for you. Worked like a charm for me.

Sixlitre

Sorry I didn't get a pic of this, my hands were covered in grease, but I did it by putting the pins only part way in where they are suppost to go and angled them out. Then pushed the metal gear down directly in the middle. Kinda like closing an upside-down umbrella. Having everything covered with grease held the pins up while doing this.

Adrianspeeder

That is exactly what I was trying to do, adrianspeeder. I hadn't had time to play with it for the past few days but I finally got them in today using that same method. Thanks for all the replies!

That is the one thing most people leave out......you do need to tilt the pins outward just a bit......it makes the job easier that way.......

Onsite said:

The window motor repair kit that has the Gear and Torque Pins - is it the same for the rear window and the front windows?

I will tackle this when I get back and have a good day to deal with it. I have to do the Passenger Window and Rear Window.

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Yup, they're the same animal.

While yer in there, go ahead and lube everything up to make things easier on the motors, they ain't the most robust part on the Bronco...

The passenger side is easy as pie to do, the tailgate requires some vocal motivation and you'll donate some skin and blood inside the tailgate, too.

To drop the tailgate with the window partially up, you'll need to reach inside the tailgate and grab the two little metal rods that lead from the handle in the center to the latches at the edge. Pull them towards the center and the tailgate will unlatch. Becareful not to drop it or you'll be buying a new window. You can probably force the window up by hand once it's down so you can work inside the tailgate easier. Just support it with a sawhorse or something of the like.

Follow a Chilton's (or similar) manual to get to the motors. Take your time, be patient and when you throw a wrench, aim at your neighbor's truck, not yours. *grin*

I mentioned in a previous post that my window would not go down. Finally got the chance to take it apart last night (the motor) and found that the torque pins were in good shape...no explosion. I tested the wiring and it was fine. Is there anyway to test the motor? Try a direct hook-up to an electrical source to see if it will turn? If it is not the torque pins or gear then what is the problem...can it be fixed or do I have to go buy another stickin motor? Thanks everyone!

I was hoping it was the pins...may be a worse case scenerio though.

by the way if I have to purchase another motor at least I will have two sets of gears and pins! Still in good shape!

Xris said:

I mentioned in a previous post that my window would not go down. Finally got the chance to take it apart last night (the motor) and found that the torque pins were in good shape...no explosion. I tested the wiring and it was fine. Is there anyway to test the motor? Try a direct hook-up to an electrical source to see if it will turn? If it is not the torque pins or gear then what is the problem...can it be fixed or do I have to go buy another stickin motor? Thanks everyone!

I was hoping it was the pins...may be a worse case scenerio though.

by the way if I have to purchase another motor at least I will have two sets of gears and pins! Still in good shape!

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Door or tailgate Xris ?

The door window motors can be screwed with. My driver's side was driving me to distraction on again off again.

I started rapping it with a hammer and it started working again. After a few times rapping it I stuck my bearded face in there and realized they'z a set screw on top with a lock nut. I screwed with that for a while and low-n-behold I done got her working all the time !

That was two years ago and she's still going strong:chili:

When it comes to the tailgate I had to pony up for the motor from Ford as I DID NOT want to have to do that again because of some cheap rebuilt !

Sixlitre