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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have recently had a problem with both power windows in my 90 FSB.
The motor still works but the window wont go up or down... unless I help push it up with my hand. Before I start pulling off the door skins I wanna ask those who had similar issues. I doubt it's the motor(s) however, they are still original.
Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks.
 

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Steve83 said:
I'm trying something new, just to see if it'll work. I washed an old set of gears last night with brake cleaner & then glued them together with NAPA/Permatex Right Stuff (a neoprene foam sealant). Today, it's dry & seems at least as solid as what Ford sells, but it could be a while before I have the chance to install & test it.

Good luck with that.

When I owned a BroncoII and didn't know about torque pins I used zip ties cut into about inch lengths and laid them in there. It worked too.
 

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I'm really surprised that no one has had these gears CNC'd yet - meaning take the 2 gears and machine a SINGLE metal gear, or even one made from some other polymer that would last...

If anyone does start CNCing these Ford window motor gear sets - remember it's my idea, so throw a few pennies my way if they sell... LOL! :D

~~~~

On another note, Steve, I've used the Right Stuff many times, excellent product. The only thing I am thinking is, as soon as that motor engages, being under torque and having to deal with the weight of the window - do you think the Right Stuff will just tear away from the gear set?
 

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Gear Kits -

Are available at Autozone. I think it was around $20 the last time I had to buy one.

I have had two other problems causing similar actions. One was a window motor wire nearly broken into two peices, (one or two strands holding on. The motor would move a little then bog down. The other one was an exrtemely dirty glass run channel.
 

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Gear Kits

Did both of mine on a '93 XLT. Very easy fix with gear kits from local autoparts store. When you begin, just drill out the dimples in the door skin where the motor is, so you can access the bolts securing the motor. No need to remove the regulator arm attached to the window. Don't forget to grease everything real good. Cost me about $30 for both doors. Good Luck.
 

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that sure beat the 75$ for a new motor...and $25 for new window after it shattered

Note: do not attempt to pull window up with pliers. The entire window will shatter:toothless
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I pulled off the door skin and I really dont know where the hell these pins are you guys are referring to. I cant look at the motor without drilling out the factory rivets...(dont really wanna do that yet)
Like I said, it goes down on its own and if I assist the window up with my hand its alright... skips a bit... could it be a weak motor? What really gets me is that it happened to both doors a few days apart.
 

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Rob_1990_Bronco said:
Well I pulled off the door skin and I really dont know where the hell these pins are you guys are referring to. I cant look at the motor without drilling out the factory rivets...(dont really wanna do that yet)
Like I said, it goes down on its own and if I assist the window up with my hand its alright... skips a bit... could it be a weak motor? What really gets me is that it happened to both doors a few days apart.
Have you read any of the write ups???

It sure sounds like the torque pins. You need to drill the inside door panels so you can get at the bolts that hold the motor. Stangmata did a great write up and I know there are others.
 

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I just had my drivers pw motor rebuilt but the arm with the teeth that hooks up with the gear motor doesn't want to stay in the pivot point in the middle and it seems there's too much play where the arm/teeth connect with the grear motor where the backing plate is when you bolt it all together. I've had this apart several times so far and I compared it the passengers side which works perfectly? I did notice the the DR motor has 3 bolts and 1 phillips head screw, which over time I guess has made a grove on that side. On the arm down near the teeth there is a hole and it can be lined up with this phillips head screw. The question is, does the arm actually bolt to the motor to keep in alingment or not. It somehow doesn't look like it would work that way. The toggle part which goes into the track, bottom of the window is fine but that's a spot for easy binding if you don't lube enough. I also noticed the DR arm had more of a bend to it then the other side so I tweaked it a bit to match and I took the screw off and it seems to work better but there is a low volume noise going up & down do to that fact it doesn't want to sit in that round pivot slot and the extra play so in time it would burn up that motor.

What am I missing here?
 

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me and a few coworkers found a clever little solution to this problem. you can get the ball bearings out of wheel bearings out of big ford trucks and it works like a charm. those little plastic thingys will only fail again down the road
 

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First I'd pull the door panel and look at the track on the bottom of your window to see if it's binding. On the end the regulator arm there's a square toggle that slides back and forth to allow the window to go up or down so make sure you have liberal amounts of grease in the track and on the toggel itself, I use Molly extreme pressure grease for breaking in cams etc. and I use it for all my shotguns.

When you have the door panel off trigger the window and check the travel of the regulator arm for alignment and for binding, also check your connectors and wiring for possible resistence.
My problem now is alignment & travel where the arm doesn't want to stay in the pivot slot in the middel of the backing plate and too much play where the arm and the motor grear meet other wise everything works fine But I'm not happy with the way it is because it will burn up the motor.

Good Luck!
 
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