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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have no problem pulling KOEO codes, get 111 and 332 (which I have been trying to clear) When I try to pull the KOER, I get no codes. Let me describe how I do it.... Get the truck hot, run it @ 2kRPM for 2 min. Then shut it off, go put the paperclip in, go back in the truck. Start it up, when it starts, it starts idling real high, then the light flashes a few times. Then I press and release the brake peddle, immediatley turn the steering wheel to the left 180 degrees and the back to where I started. Then I hit the O/D off switch, then press it again. Now I wait for the "goose light", never get it. So I will wait about 30 seconds after getting no codes and just call it quit. What am I doing wrong here guys?
 

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I would suggest spending $35.00 for a code reader, rather than use a paper clip. Are you getting your directions from the manual?
 

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I would suggest spending $35.00 for a code reader, rather than use a paper clip. Are you getting your directions from the manual?

Best money I ever spent. I got the Innova 3145 OBD 1. Does it all.


As some of you get older you'll reach a point where the 'Jerking your lettuce trying to save a nickle' factor gets superceded by the fact that that time equals money.

Just my 401K worth of advice...........:smokin:
 

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The EEC was specifically designed to reliably emit codes using only a paperclip (or any jumper wire), so there's nothing "cheap" about doing it that way. Yes, it might take a few more seconds to get the codes, but at your current pay rate, how long do you have to work to bring home $35? I bet it's more than 1 hr, and codes CAN be pulled using a paperclip in a LOT less than 1 hr. Several times.

Read this thread - especially the last few posts. :deal
 

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The EEC was specifically designed to reliably emit codes using only a paperclip (or any jumper wire), so there's nothing "cheap" about doing it that way. Yes, it might take a few more seconds to get the codes, but at your current pay rate, how long do you have to work to bring home $35? I bet it's more than 1 hr, and codes CAN be pulled using a paperclip in a LOT less than 1 hr. Several times.

Read this thread - especially the last few posts. :deal

Can you do the cylinder balance checks, relay and solenoid checks, remember every swing of the needle or flash for half a dozen codes at a time? Continuous memory code storage? A real nice 100 page book that'll walk you thru everything? Trust me, somethings aren't worth screwing with and possibly misreading a beep or buzz, ergo sending you off chasing your tail. I say spend the money on this and then do your own oil changes for a year to break even...........
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Your truck can't do a cylinder balance test. There are a few that can. :toothless

Also, during your KOER, you do NOT have to turn the steering wheel (there is no PSPS on a 5.8L), and it may take more than 30 seconds, so be patient and observant because it may be a very brief flash.
 

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Your truck can't do a cylinder balance test. There are a few that can. :toothless

Well then I should probably see wtf really happened the other day when I went thru the steps and the the injectors got shut off one at a time.

Gawd there's always something to learn here, isn't there?..............:smokin:
 

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Well then I should probably see wtf really happened the other day when I went thru the steps and the the injectors got shut off one at a time.

Gawd there's always something to learn here, isn't there?..............:smokin:
Yeah, you definitely should, because that can't happen on your truck.


All the SD trucks are bank-fired injection. The inner four injectors all fire together, and the outer four injectors fire together. They are not wired separately like the sequential trucks are.

IIRC, the only Bronco that CAN do the Cylinder Balance test, is a 96.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Nope. Mine can. 1995 CA/MAF/SFI PCM (BIO0).
 

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Nope. Mine can. 1995 CA/MAF/SFI PCM (BIO0).

Ok, I went thru my notes this morning----after getting code free last week I tried the Cylinder Balance Test (at night of course) as outlined on page 40 in the Innova book. I obviously missed the sentence that contained For SEFI Systems Only. Whatever. But following the procedure for the test the engine raced for a minute, went back to idle and then slowed down and got real rough for about thirty seconds. It did this twice and then went back to normal idle. But no codes showed.

Oh well...........
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I tried to KOER test again without turning the steering wheel, no codes, no flashes. I dont know if i'm doing it to fast, anyone have personal experience doing this with a paperclip?
Thanks
 

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I tried to KOER test again without turning the steering wheel, no codes, no flashes. I dont know if i'm doing it to fast, anyone have personal experience doing this with a paperclip?
Thanks

Nope---but I'm positive Steve83 does...........:smokin:
 

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...no codes, no flashes. I dont know if i'm doing it to fast...
Well, since you're not telling us what you ARE doing, there's no way for us to guess what's happening, either. :shrug Did you read that WHOLE thread? Did you read all the reasons tests might not work?
 

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I just bought a 95' 5.0 and it does not have any warning lights on the dash. Will I still get any codes if I take it to the parts store and have them run the codes?
 

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I'd have to agree with petlover07and RickyB, a paper clip may work...but use the right equipment unless your shoot'n for the Hack award.
 

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I just bought a 95' 5.0 and it does not have any warning lights on the dash. Will I still get any codes if I take it to the parts store and have them run the codes?
Maybe. You can still try the Self Test using an Analog VOM as Steve83 describes;
SELF TEST - & DTCs; COMPREHENSIVE; Includes Steps to Clear Continuous Memory & Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Codes; & a list of reasons why a technician may see the MIL lamp lit with no accompanying Continuous Memory Self-Test codes
Source: by Steve83


Guessing that Prev owner or a used car dealer removed bulbs, or the "Warning indicators" fuse is blown or removed. But other probs should be evident for items that are serviced by same fuse (tranny probs, etc.)

Here is a source for a 96 Bronco (and other Fords from 96 on) Owner's Guide (Manual) for free = print or save file; Fuse diagram is prob sim. to your yr as well as many operating instructions/info

Owner Guides (Manuals), Bronco/Ford truck & other Ford vehicles, 96-08 free, download; includes Scheduled Maintenance Guide
Source: by Ford via fleet.ford.com
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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I'd have to agree with petlover07and RickyB, a paper clip may work...but use the right equipment unless your shoot'n for the Hack award.
:wacko There's nothing "hack" about it. Grounding a pin is grounding a pin, and the right equipment is a conductor, e.g. a paper clip. Trust me, just because a device comes in a neat plastic box with switches doesn't necessarily mean it's any more complicated.

Guessing that Prev owner or a used car dealer removed bulbs, or the "Warning indicators" fuse is blown or removed. But other probs should be evident for items that are serviced by same fuse (tranny probs, etc.)
:stupid

All of the warning lights should turn on at start-up (as a prove-out measure). I'd be looking at the fuses and instrument cluster connections, after checking the bulbs of course.

FWIW, I wouldn't trust a parts store employee to watch paint dry. Given the age of these trucks, the connectors might already be corroded, requiring cleaning and/or replacement.
 
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