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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. I've been reading alot and have been writing alot of chicken scratch on what I want to do next with my Bronc. Here's what I've come up with: I plan to do a D60 leaf spring swap (see SAS forumn), move the rear axle back as far as I can and install a 14 bolt back there. 5.13's is the ratio I'm looking for eventually with a Detroit in the rear and a selectable locker up front. I like the look of the OX but damn it's spendy. I want to run the NP203/205 duel Tcase combo. Under all of this I want to do 44" boggers or the new 46" Baja Claws. This is going to require lots of cutting in the back and welding/ modifying of fenderwells. I don't want to restrain the axles with bumpstops unless I absolutely have too. I may move the gas tank up to the top of the frame too since I'll be doing alot of cutting back there anyway. I've considered doing the whole bed over again using diamondplate. Wether it ends up a hodgepodge of sheet metal back there or diamond plate I intend to make access covers for anything I may want to see the top of. just to make it easier to work on. If any/ all of this seems excessive/obsessive then I'll have to agree with you. This is just a dream I have and I'm going one step at a time to achieve it. I know my rig may be down for years on my budget but I feel it will be worth it when I'm done. Any ideas and help would be greatly apreciated. Thanx. :) NORM
 

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Norm,

I know you like that C6 but you might want to swap to the shorter NP435 when you put in the doubler. You could go with a major mod and move the engine forward a bit to ease the rear driveshaft issue....
 

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ate lug
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Yeah, and youd be going from that wimpy 2.46:1 first to a 6.69:1, which would help to make for a pretty hefty final crawl ratio (somewhere around 135:1 if my math is right) :eek: :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I heard that the C6 was the stronger of the two trannys. I was looking for a place where it would be feasible to cut the frame and It might be feasable like where the stock crossmember is so I may remove the xmember, lenghten the frame as described then reinstall the xmember forward the same distance as I gained. This would place the motor in the same place as it would have been in relation with the whole combo. I'm not sure if it's an issue but it would definately remove the longer PS hose predicament. Not that it was a major issue in the first place but if it means I don't have to buy more stuff then so much the better. My shopping list is already too long. LOL! Thanx for the replies. NORM
 

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Keith_L said:
'Cause they're cool, they crawl better and have virtually infinite variable ratio due to torque converter! And by "they" I mean the C6. The E4OD is problematic at best.

Let the auto vs manual war begin!:goodfinge
 

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havack said:
I know you like that C6 but you might want to swap to the shorter NP435 when you put in the doubler. You could go with a major mod and move the engine forward a bit to ease the rear driveshaft issue....
Check your facts Havack, there will be no rear d/s issue
 

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BigNorm said:
I like the look of the OX but damn it's spendy.
Interesting tidbit: OX nearly went out of business this year. They sold the company to 4WPW a few months ago to avoid losing everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just to give credit where credit is due I've done alot of reading up on this and Keith L on the board was a major contributor. ... So when it breaks its all his fault! :lolup JK Keith. :beer
 

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Keith_L said:
Check your facts Havack, there will be no rear d/s issue
Disclamer: I sense an attitude but this is not meant to give one back. Also by issue I do not mean problem. Just a point of concern. BTW:Norm and I go back a bit....

The facts I speak of are well know but this is what I was talking about:

The rear driveshaft on the bronco is short thus the use of a D/C. In putting in a doubler it will naturally be a bit longer than that of a single tcase. Reportedly only 1.5 inches but still. If he went with a shorter tranny then he could gain some rear driveshaft length helping to ease what I see as an issue with even a bone stock bronco. As he is thinking of going forward with the engine this is a mute point. Also when lifting it would necessitate an increase the length of the d/s which helps.

Now what facts am I missing?

Again no attitude is meant by this post.
 

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The attitude is that people just assume that the doubler is soooooooooooooooo long when we've had several discussions on this in the past two weeks.

Given that Norm has a C6 your concerns are almost surely unfounded. Here's my rear d/s with an E4OD and 10.25:



For a Bronco that is SHORT!

Now consider how much longer the C6 makes that (anyone have hard numbers on C6 vs E4OD?), plus I lost 2 3/8" with the 10.25 snout. It's fine to full droop at 6" lift.

So, if I can get 6" with THAT setup, Norm should conceivably be good 'til 10" or more (guessing), and he's already stated he wants minimal lift and has no problem removing sheetmetal.

He already said he's gonna move the rear axle back (a VERY good idea to reduce frontend unweighting on steep climbs), so pushing the motor forward is a lot of work for not much gain IMO. He'll have to rework exhaust, fuel lines, t-case and tranny linkages to name a few.
 

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Keith_L said:
The attitude is that people just assume that the doubler is soooooooooooooooo long when we've had several discussions on this in the past two weeks.
As a new member to this board I wanted to be careful not to sound like a stupid newbie on my last reply.

I never doubted that it could be done. especially with extending the front and/or rear axle. I just wanted to offer a choice for increasing the rear driveshaft length and thus reducing the angle.

The c6 is shorter, I think, than my M5OD. Changing over to the M5OD from the E4OD gained me almost 2.5 inches of rear driveshaft legth and was three inches shorter than the E4OD in actual length.
 

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seboh said:
How long is that, anyway?
IIRC the measurement for High Angle was something like 24.25 from t-case flange to face of rear yoke where the straps sit. The main tube of the d/s from weld to weld is about 8"
 

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havack said:
Norm,

I know you like that C6 but you might want to swap to the shorter NP435 when you put in the doubler. You could go with a major mod and move the engine forward a bit to ease the rear driveshaft issue....
couldn't u just go with an extreme angle driveshaft instea of that major mod?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah. It was just an idea. The motor is going to stay in place and as of right now I'm just going to extend the frame horn a bit and probably add some blocks (square tube steel) for some extra lift as well. For the doubler clearance I still plan on moving the rear leafs back as far as it will go. However it won't be as much if I decide to go with rear chevy leafs. I'm thinking I might find those at the same time I get my 14 bolt (God knows when I'll be able to afford this.) LOL. Thanx for the post. NORM
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So far...

Some of you said you wanted pictures. It's not much but it's a beginning.

Also Here's a close up of how I made my York work.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Here's the latest
 
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