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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I was wanting to lift my truck about 3-4 inches and I wanted to keep the cost down.

I work at a Ford dealership and I bought these parts to make my lift a reality:

2006 Ford F-350 coils
2 Rancho shocks from above
2- 2 degree camber/castor excentrics to keep everything in-line.

My goal was to lift the vehicle to it's highest point without doing extended radius arms.

So I got these camber excentrics



The plan was to install them at the highest degree of negative camber and then install a set of coils that would be cut enough to bring the alignment angles back within spec.

The end result would be the highest lift coil for the buck.

So I bought those F-350 coils, cut them with a grinder cutoff wheel to the right amount (shown in the pic for reference against the coils from my Bronco). Keep in mind the coil is much thicker, so they look short but they are firm.




The we slipped em in to check the coil overhang



Took them back out and heated the coil, bending it to the shape of the original coil on top



I also installed a set of rancho shocks that came off of the same 2006 F-350 and you can see the extra length.



I was going to do all four, but I forgot that the rearmost set of quad shocks are shorter than the front, so I just used the old until I can find another set for cheap. To fit the front ranchos we had to drill out the metal bushing sleeve by almost 2 mm's and we had to shim the shock on the bottom stud to allow enough clearance for them to fit:

But we got them in without the boot cause it would have torn anyways, damn tight fit, also notice the better fit at the top of the coil. We even got to re-use the factory bracket to hold the coil in.



The two pictures are slightly different in size, but you have to trust that the end result was just under 3 inches at the wheel lip.



We bolted everything back up to check ride height and then we put it on the alignment machine. The factory camber bushings went in the garbage and in went the 2 degree ones. The alignment has a 1/4 degree camber pull to the left to fight road crown, and the castor/toe settings are both fine.

The end result can be seen better in this pic and mentally adjusting for the sloap of my driveway, you can see just how much it has raised.



vs the old height:



The best part about this was the price.

The coils and shocks were take-offs from a diesel that had a 6 inch lift done to it. I paid $20.00 for the coils and $20.00 each for the shocks, plus I spent $60.00 for the camber bushings.

Just about any Ford dealership sells these takeoffs for cheap when guys lift their trucks so a few phone calls can net a guy a set similar in price to mine.

I paid our mechanic to do the work for me, but it certainly isn't so hard that a guy couldn't do it at home if he has the equipment.

The heating and bending of the coils isn't ideal because it does weaken the coils, but at $20.00 I can afford a new set later lol.

The ride is way firmer and I find the body roll is way less.

Next up is the rear leaf spring boost.

Jeff
 

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way to go jeff, that's awsome

you need tires ;)

but i can't wait to see it when you have it all done. the pics and the write up great. you did awsome. way to go!!!!!!!


btw: i'm still hoping to be bigger then you for the rally
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yep I need tires and yep I agree that is a ton of work.

The biggest reason for doing this was to show what you can do for cheap with a bit of initative.

I also wanted to show those that ask how high can you lift without the expense of new radius arms or drop brackets.

It was worth it though. I don't rock crawl or jump my truck and I am hoping to go the next step as far as the lift goes with new heavier leafs to level it out and maybe even gain an extra inch in the rearend of the truck.

I hope to keep it low while adding the stiffness that the truck was lacking.

After the leafs the fender trimming will kick into high gear, the custom bumpers will go on along my custom soft top. Then wheels and tires will go on last.

My budget is 6K canadian and with exchange and parts availability that is like 4k to you american guys and gals.

So far I am at 3k including buying the Bronco.

Well worth it when I look at guys that loose 20k owning a new truck for a year.

Jeff
 

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So, just to clarify.....
Looks like your front end was sagging. You put in stiffer coils which gained you just under three inches of lift, which is probably close to 2" over stock height, as the 2 degree bushings are what we used to use when installing "levelling" spacers or springs.

One things for sure, you can't beat the price! :thumbup

When I worked at the 4x4 shop, we did tonnes of lifts in the leaf sprung F-350's. When customers declined to take their old parts, we would sell the front springs to the spring shops, where they would re-arc them and re-sell them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yep that pretty much sums it up.

No drop pitman arm, no drop brackets on the radius arms and this was the maximum lift we could do and still maintain alignment angles.

So 2" is pretty much it if a guy wants to do the lift "on the cheap" and not eat tires off by running the ragged edge of too much positive camber.

The one thing I love is that the suspension doesn't compress as much as it used to, so the ride if firmer and more controlled.

Jeff
 

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bigeddie said:
I'll be the first to ask... So a 2 1/2" lift can be installed provided you add the camber bushings, right? Nothing else would be needed? :brownbag
2.5" over stock height, no. 2.5" over sagged height, yes. Coils, shocks and alignment cams, just as done above. :thumbup
 

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Keep a close eye on that heated portion of the spring for cracks or sagging ride height. It would suck to have it fail while you're driving it.

Tommy
 

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EdsonBronco said:
Yep that pretty much sums it up.

No drop pitman arm, no drop brackets on the radius arms and this was the maximum lift we could do and still maintain alignment angles.

So 2" is pretty much it if a guy wants to do the lift "on the cheap" and not eat tires off by running the ragged edge of too much positive camber.

The one thing I love is that the suspension doesn't compress as much as it used to, so the ride if firmer and more controlled.

Jeff
I'm sure you realize this but what was once poor TTB offroad axle travel is now on the dark side of pathetic? But yes, you did achieve cheap. All depends on your use. I hope you can live with the ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have to say that if I was looking for above average articulation I would be losing the TTB all together.

Not everyone is looking for an uber rock crawler per say, I am just not hard core enough to invest 4k ( canada sucks for 4x4 parts cost) with labor/parts into my DD to run a better stance and larger wheels.

For those of us that want to hit some puddles, drive on rough gravel roads with better stability, put larger tires on for looks, drive some well travelled trails....that kind of thing....this does the trick just fine.

Again my biggest point was about the amount of lift before major modifications have to be done....the info gained here can help guys contemplating spacers or 2-3" lift coils, without fear that they are getting in over their heads money wise.

As far as the ride goes I am totally impressed with it!

The road behind where I work is pretty bad and I would bounce all over the place, washboard on gravel would make my truck "jump" and the body roll in corners was terrible. The old shocks were not bad, but the compression allowed on those old coils was horrible.Overall I would do it again in a heartbeat for the improvement.

I wish I had taken some photos and measurements of articulation before and after, but I totally forgot to do it. I will try to get a photo of how much articulation I can get from it this weekend if anyone is curious.

Oh and Tommy, that is a good point, I will watch for that.

Jeff
 

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I'm really torn here. I HATE TTB but I love cheap. Hmm. I give you a C-, cheap is good, working at a Ford dealership and still being willing to run TTB is baffling :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The REALLY sad part?

1998 F-350 one ton single rear wheel diesel came through 4 days ago. The engine was rebuilt by a local company and it has 2 years worth the warranty still on it, it had a custom box on it that would be worth about $2500 to someone in need of one.

I could have bought the whole truck for 4k, selling the diesel and the box would have left me at a zero cost into the truck and I would have had a 12k winch and the entire remaining drivetrain.

Too bad I didn't have 4k to tie up for a few weeks to get it all put together.

It would have been sweet doing a one tone SAS!

The truck had 4:56 gears and a factory rear locker too.

Please excuse me while I go walk in front of a bus.

Jeff
 

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Hmm....my experience was that 1.75" over badly sagging stock was the most that could be gained before reaching the limit of camber bushings. I had to remove the sway bar brackets from under the coil perch to make 1.5" SuperStiff...uh...Superlift leveling coils align--and I use the term align loosely. At that point I am getting about 2" of droop before the RA bushings bind and about .75" of compression from the superstiff coils. Corners great though.
 
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