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IM FAT, YOUR UGLY!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok ive done some searching and couldnt find anything, went through about 6 pages of searches.

I want to add a 2nd battery to my truck but here's the thing.

I work overnights security where most of my posting is from my vehicle now, 12 hour shifts my laptop and cell phone dont last very long. So I was talking to a friend of mine who gave me a suggestion on how to add a 2nd battery but use a toggle switch so that when I plug in my laptop and crap it only drains the 2nd battery and not the one for the truck.

So he was saying to grab a 2nd battery and starter solenoid, and a 12v toggle switch. Hook the power up from the 1st battery to the 2nd solenoid, and than to the 2nd battery. Ground the 2nd battery of course but instead of connecting the solenoid to my starter switch connect it to the 12v toggle switch, so all I have to do is switch it to use a single battery and than switch it back to charge that battery while driving and using both batteries.

Would this type of setup work for what I need? If anymore info is needed lemme know.
 

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Your power needs sound pretty minimal to me, I would give my stock single battery setup a try first, then upgrade as needed.

How do you plan on powering your laptop off the battery? If you use as inverter, most will kill your laptop battery because they doesn't produce a true sine wave, be sure to remove your battery when using an inverter!
 

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big, long, hard
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It sounds like that would work, but there are some companies who sell a kit with all the parts and the correct continous duty solenoids. "Painless" makes one and I think mine is "ranger" but I'll check later to be sure. With those systems you can hbave 3 settings. 1) "dual on" which means it is charging both batteries when the ignition is on, but they are disconnected when ignition is off. 2) "dual off" which disconnects them completely, or 3) "emergency on" which connects them when the ignition is in either on or off. Emergency on has come in handy several times when I ran my main battery down:doh0715: Just flip the switch and crank her up!

I connected all of my aftermarket stuff (inverter, CB, winch, front and rear offroad lights, etc) to my second (deep cycle) battery. Works great and I never have to worry about running outta juice:chili:
 

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IM FAT, YOUR UGLY!
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Your power needs sound pretty minimal to me, I would give my stock single battery setup a try first, then upgrade as needed.

How do you plan on powering your laptop off the battery? If you use as inverter, most will kill your laptop battery because they doesn't produce a true sine wave, be sure to remove your battery when using an inverter!
I have an inverter made for my laptop by the laptop company so it shouldnt be a problem. But a single battery just wont cut it, I dont want to even think about having to find someone to jump my vehicle. Better safe than sorry.

It sounds like that would work, but there are some companies who sell a kit with all the parts and the correct continous duty solenoids. "Painless" makes one and I think mine is "ranger" but I'll check later to be sure. With those systems you can hbave 3 settings. 1) "dual on" which means it is charging both batteries when the ignition is on, but they are disconnected when ignition is off. 2) "dual off" which disconnects them completely, or 3) "emergency on" which connects them when the ignition is in either on or off. Emergency on has come in handy several times when I ran my main battery down:doh0715: Just flip the switch and crank her up!

I connected all of my aftermarket stuff (inverter, CB, winch, front and rear offroad lights, etc) to my second (deep cycle) battery. Works great and I never have to worry about running outta juice:chili:
Yeah i dont need 3 batteries though LOL. I just want to be able to isolate and use a single battery without worrying about draining that battery needed to start my truck.

So im guessing i would basically need, a 12v Solenoid, 12v Toggle Switch, Battery, Negative Battery Cable, Positive Battery Cable.. and than hook up my cig lighter and other crap to the 2nd battery.

Here's my question though, will the ignition switch still have to be turned to the on position (not started) to use the battery? And the toggle switch when turned on uses the 2nd battery and turned off uses both right?
 

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There's no substantial difference about what you're describing from any other dual battery thread. You're just going to tap the spare batt instead of the cranking batt. You don't need a switch - the RELAY can be triggered by any key-switched circuit, just like what Ford did.

 

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Kitteh Commandaar!
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:popc1: I'll be watching this. May have an overnight job doing the same thing, and may have to do something similar. :D Please diagram what you do, when you do it/if it works :thumbup

KC
 

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big, long, hard
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Yeah i dont need 3 batteries though LOL. I just want to be able to isolate and use a single battery without worrying about draining that battery needed to start my truck.

So im guessing i would basically need, a 12v Solenoid, 12v Toggle Switch, Battery, Negative Battery Cable, Positive Battery Cable.. and than hook up my cig lighter and other crap to the 2nd battery.

Here's my question though, will the ignition switch still have to be turned to the on position (not started) to use the battery? And the toggle switch when turned on uses the 2nd battery and turned off uses both right?
I don't understand what you mean about three batteries. It's only two batteries, but the switch provides for three configurations.

BTW, mine is "wrangler", not "ranger". Here's a good writeup:
http://4wheeldrivesportutility.automotive.com/398/0704-4wd-2001-jeep-tj-battery-isolator/index.html
 

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IM FAT, YOUR UGLY!
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There's no substantial difference about what you're describing from any other dual battery thread. You're just going to tap the spare batt instead of the cranking batt. You don't need a switch - the RELAY can be triggered by any key-switched circuit, just like what Ford did.

yeah but for me a switch would actually be a lot easier installation since im a total noob when it comes to electrical. A switch inside the cabin makes more sense to me for some reason.

I don't understand what you mean about three batteries. It's only two batteries, but the switch provides for three configurations.

BTW, mine is "wrangler", not "ranger". Here's a good writeup:
http://4wheeldrivesportutility.automotive.com/398/0704-4wd-2001-jeep-tj-battery-isolator/index.html

yeah but not even a need for something that hardcore lol.

but from their site p53519 this is basically what im doing just on the really cheap

http://www.wranglernw.com/pc-6359-7...-f-series-and-full-size-bronco-1980-1986.aspx
 

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big, long, hard
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I got my switch and isolator used for $75. Everything else you can make yourself. You can buy the isolator new for $70. I don't see where they offer the switch separately, but I'm sure you can find one.
You can get entire kits new for about $160.
 

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IM FAT, YOUR UGLY!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got my switch and isolator used for $75. Everything else you can make yourself. You can buy the isolator new for $70. I don't see where they offer the switch separately, but I'm sure you can find one.
You can get entire kits new for about $160.
actually, i already have the 2nd battery, and the 12v toggle switch. Basically all I would need to do would be grab 2 positive, 1 negative and some new terminals and i would be done.
 

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yeah but for me a switch would actually be a lot easier installation since im a total noob when it comes to electrical.
A total noob at electrical needs to take a step back and read the countless other threads on this exact same topic before you set your truck on fire.
 

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yeah but for me a switch would actually be a lot easier installation since im a total noob when it comes to electrical.
It's more work, more effort, and LESS reliability to accomplish PRECISELY the same effect. Your truck is even partially pre-wired for it. Did you click that diagram? Did you read the caption? Did you click the thumbnail & look at THAT pic? Did you open your hood & see the same thing? Did you read the 2nd pic's caption?
A switch inside the cabin makes more sense to me for some reason.
For the same reason a flat world used to make more sense to a lot of people. :shrug
 

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OUT OF BUSINESS / M.I.A.
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the setup won't last long. the alt will be overcharge the good battery and undercharge the dead battery.
 

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the setup won't last long. the alt will be overcharge the good battery and undercharge the dead battery.
:stupid

Use an isolator.
 

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the setup won't last long.
Do you mean the Ford setup?
the alt will be overcharge the good battery and undercharge the dead battery.
The alt doesn't differentiate; it sees them as one big battery, and it will charge them that way. However, they see each other as separate batteries, and the one with higher voltage will charge the lower one until they're balanced, WHILE the alt is keeping both of them charged. When the alt isn't running, the batteries are automatically disconnected, so they won't discharge each other.

The big advantage of a relay over a solid-state isolator is that there's no additional diode in the circuit, so no additional voltage drop between the alt & batteries. They always get a FULL charge.
 

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Service before Self
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You really wouldn't need any type of switch.. just an Isolator... Why turn it off? All you want it do is charge when the truck is running and only give power to your electrical accessories? Just install it, Isolate it and run all your stuff off of it (whatever your going to install.. cigarette lighter, hard wired inverter, etc.). There is no reason to switch it.

You can get an dual battery single alternator isolator from Del City Wire for $40...

Why Don't you like Isolators Steve? They've been in use for decades on Emergency Vehicles...

BTW - What type of hold down is there for the factory overflow/washer fluid tank when you relocate it? I scabbed my second battery holder out of a '86 F-350 6.9L.. So I have that mount in your picture but couldn't figure out a good way to mount the overflow tank so I wound up using the Diesel's separate overflow & washer fluid tank and rigging the mount. Now I want to go back to stock airbox setup and need the space where my overflow tank is now. Where does the factory second battery setup relocate the overflow tank to?
 

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Here you go, J.C.Whitney $51.99, Prevents stronger auto battery from being discharged into weakened auxiliary battery , High-output 90-amp isolator with 50-amp circuit breaker for complete safety , I used one on a previous vehicle for the same thing you are doing. Run Your acc off one battery, start off the other, charges both when running, AND can use the second to start vehicle if the first runs down.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...Id-100000166189/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000166189
 

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Sorry, reading closer this one does not have the feature to use both batteries to start your vehicle. My old one did. They do have several models for different amperage. You should also verify the ouput of your alternator to make sure it can handle charging two batteries plus all the acc's.
 

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You can get an dual battery single alternator isolator from Del City Wire for $40.
...J.C.Whitney $51.99
A winch relay can be had for less than $20 in a parts store where you get an over-the-counter-exchange warranty.
...Prevents stronger auto battery from being discharged into weakened auxiliary battery...
Yep; the cheaper relay does that, too.
...High-output 90-amp isolator with 50-amp circuit breaker for complete safety...
The relay can handle ~200A continuously; nearly 1,000A peak; and doesn't need a circuit breaker.
...Run Your acc off one battery, start off the other, charges both when running...
Yep; the cheaper relay does that, too.
...AND can use the second to start vehicle if the first runs down.
Yep; the cheaper relay does that, too. The factory '80-86 wiring doesn't support that function, but it would take ~$8 to buy a new cable to make it do that, and it wouldn't affect any OTHER functionality.
Why Don't you like Isolators Steve?
The big advantage of a relay over a solid-state isolator is that there's no additional diode in the circuit, so no additional voltage drop between the alt & batteries. They always get a FULL charge.
:popc1:
Test voltage from each of the isolator's 3 main posts to engine block ground. You'll find the terminal to the alt is ~1V higher than the other 2, which is more of a difference than Ryan was talking about in the batteries.
What type of hold down is there for the factory overflow/washer fluid tank when you relocate it?
You use the same fasteners as before.
Where does the factory second battery setup relocate the overflow tank to?
Right behind the batt on that bracket visible to the L of the batt tray.
...Isolators [have] been in use for decades on Emergency Vehicles.
You could say the same about carburetors, incandescent flasher bulbs, & R-12 A/C systems. Does that mean they're all the best?
 

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IM FAT, YOUR UGLY!
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Steve, we need to talk a little more about the stock setup for the bko im getting a little confused. Basically I should have that wire in my truck that was shown before right? If so what parts would I go about getting to make this work. Any way I can get a list :p and yes supporting the function to start off 2nd battery would be helpfull.

but another question

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Solenoid-Kit.aspx?t_c=72&t_s=12&t_pt=5250&t_pl=9201&t_pn=PWP40112

Would that be the kit to look into?
 
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