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penis
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Discussion Starter #1
O.K. here I am back with a new question but first a list of syptoms leading up to the current SNAFU:
This is on a 95 Bronceo 351 windsor e4od
O.K. no CEL/ABS light (both lights operate when key is first put in powered on)
replaced/cleaned the VSS literally 10 minutes ago I cleaned it
I had a bouncy speedo would jump and come back to speed accelerate and it would bounce til the speed leveled out.
Eratic cruise keeps surging
trans fluid is full (dirty but it is full)
Trans shift smooth (was rebuilt at one point)
Odometer was acting wierd (truck has 169,000 on it but the odo. would show 159,000 I assumed it was a bad light)
So last night i was going to work and as I started to pull in I lost my speedo (stuck at 30MPH and my odometer went out)
I left work 10 hours later and low and behold the odometer/speedometer are back but the speedo pegs it self but the odometer is working and the showing 169,000 miles, I get about 2 miles from my house it stops displaying and the overdrive light starts blinking.
So I checked everything good conections (need to pull the diff cover off and change the fluid) good fluid levels no leaks. While i was sitting in it I was messing with the gearshift and I could the odometer to pop on and off by using the shifter.
Now I am thinking either I have a short or the PSOM is gonna take a shit soon if it hasn't already. Any suggestions/locations to look would be helpful.
 

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yo,
Good info you included!
I'd like to see a SELF TEST - & DTCs; COMPREHENSIVE;
miesk5 NOTE, The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; The self-test plugs are located along the driver's side fender behind the air filter box on 1987-95 EFI trucks,
Includes Steps to Clear Continuous Memory & Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Codes; & a list of reasons why a technician may see the MIL lamp lit with no accompanying Continuous Memory Self-Test codes;
The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual), release clutch

I run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse.
then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc.

Do KOEO portion first
For Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, the engine has to be @ normal operating temp.

Post any codes found here or look em up in my broncolinks.com site
---===================

Next are Possible Shorts:
Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) Troubleshooting in 92-96; "...check the wires coming out of the shifter handle, I have had several trucks have those wires short out and cause some strange symptoms. Just pull the plastic cover off the top of the column and take a look, it's pretty obvious when it happens..."
Source: by jrainw & miesk5
I had an intermittent short in shifter because The wire that connects the OD switch/light at the end of the shifter is being worn at the column; a Mr.P had same problem; he wrote elsewhere; A flashing OD light that is sporatic, has no pattern, is accompanied by a also sporatic OD engagement indicated that the wires are being worn and possibly shorted at the column. This is a common problem with these. The light flashing in a sporatic and sometimes on and sometimes off for longer periods indicated a bad switch at the end of the column. (my case)
Hope it is one of the easier ones. (Switch light or wires at column)..."
This is alluded to in;
Erratic/Hard Shifting Due to Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 in 94-95 Bronco & Trucks (Also happened in our 96 w/E4OD); Miesk5 NOTE; See: C. & D. Erratic/Hard Shifting
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/470456_1

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


PSOM & Keyless Entry Inoperative; Fuse 8 Overload, Possible Short In Circuit 54 TSB 95-14-11 for 94-95 Bronco & F Series; also affected Inoperative Courtesy, Map, Engine & Glove Compartment, Dome, Vanity, & Cargo Lamps & Inoperative Power Mirrors
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/748790
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seen this happen too; but is for a 94...but needs to be considered too;
PSOM & Odometer Not Working & E4OD Harsh Shift TSB 94-09-12 for 94 Bronco & F Series; "...PSOM (Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module) may be inoperative or not function properly and the #8 fuse may be blown. In addition, if the vehicle is equipped with an E4OD transmission, it may exhibit a harsh shift. These conditions may be caused by trim screws installed through the 17K745 visor wire between the left hand "A" pillar and the left hand visor bullet connector..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/748790

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PSOM Pointer Waiver TSB 96-21-11 for 92-96; "..The speedometer needle may waver and or a light surge may occur on some vehicles...This may be due to slight dents/chips in either the exciter ring or the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and air gaps between the VSS and the exciter ring. Any slight dents, chips, etc., in either the exciter ring or VSS will create needle waver. Measure air gap between the VSS and exciter ring. It should be 0.38-0.51mm (0.015-0.020"). Check exciter ring runout per the same ring gear backface runout procedure of the appropriate model 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Section 05-00. Make sure the exciter ring is mounted correctly to the ring gear. If runout is more than 0.1mm (0.004"), perform the differential runout check per the procedure in the appropriate model 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Section 05-02A or 05-02D, to find cause and repair as needed. If all items listed above check good, replace the Instrument Cluster Assembly. Obtain the correct service part number from the Parts Catalogue and then contact the Electronic Odometer Exchange Center at (800) 259-9700 for U.S. Dealers and (800) 663-9974 for Canadian Dealers..." read more
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at http://home.comcast.net/~miesk5/technical_service_bulletins.htm#PSOM Pointer Waiver TSB 96-21-11 for 92-96
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a long-shot since ABS light doesn't flash on, etc.
Fuse E Blown, ABS Light On, Back-Up Lamps Inoperative, DRLs Inoperative, MIL On, Speedometer Inoperative TSB 95-02-11 for 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/646262Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44736
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PSOM Failure Due to a Bad Solder Joint; "...author said this is the cause of late model (95 and up) Bronco and 97+ F series PSOM failures..."
Source: by miesk5 at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8218&highlight=keyless+connector
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Speed Input Signal Test in 93-96 Bronco from RABS Sensor (also called called VSS) ; "...NOTE: Only wiring harness end of connector is to be probed. * Connect Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 014-00407 or equivalent to Pin 4 (speed in ) and Pin 5 (speed in -). * Does the voltage increase smoothly and continuously from 0 to approximately 3.5 volts as vehicle speed increases from 0 to 48 km/h (0 to 30 mph)? OR: If available, a frequency counter may be connected to Pin 4 (Speed in ) and Pin 5 (Speed in -). Does the displayed frequency of the signal increase smoothly and continuously from 0 to approximately 667 Hz at approximately 48 km/h (30 mph)? OR: * If neither a voltmeter nor frequency counter is available, vehicle speed control may be used as a good indicator. If it works normally, then the speedometer module is at least receiving a speed input signal and the wiring and sensor can be assumed to be good. Rear axle sensor should read 800-1400 Ohms across the pins, and more than 10 Ohms from the metal shell to either pin. To bypass the 4WABS module & feed the ABS signal directly to the PSOM, jumper LG/Bk to LG/Y, and R/Pk to O/LB..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/170517_1
 

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penis
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3,320 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
OK so I was trying to show my Girlfriend on how the truck acts well I couldn't get it to **** up for the life of me so I got mad and hit the top of the dash AND BAMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM out goes the odometer and the speedo pegs itself and it starts acting retarded like a kid in special ed. I take it the PSOM is bad? or at least a bad connection?

And Miesk is there any other tool I can use (besides myself) to check for DTCS?
 

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ok,
you can call local parts stores other than Auto Zone can scan it for free - they are "said" to do only 96 and up now w/OBDII

we had a few mom + pop stores that would do it for free, but they're gone now due to wally mart, etc.

or buy a cheap code reader.... I think a few paces sell em for under $25.00 now such as Harbor Frieght and adv auto parts, Pep Boys etc.

Banging on da dash; I think we need to look at the PSOM's connector first.
have to pull the cluster out a bit

Here is how Kuss pulled the cluster out; part of his white-face gauge

...but shows the cluster info

http://www.kusscave.com/bronco/tech/gauges/dials.htm
In his # 10); I managed to lift the gauge cluster up and tilted it to disconnect the connector to PSOM, and other gauges...
And, Re; "... This is the plastic housing that the little wire loop runs through. The black thumbwheel is threaded around the plastic housing. By spinning the thumbwheel, the housing will back down and out (with the wire loop). You want to spin the housing all the way down and clear... Be gentle with it; I used a small phillips screwdriver to un-hook it; didn't need to spin it;

If the cable sheath is white, it's probably about to break no matter how careful you are. If it's black with mesh reinforcement, you almost can't break it..." Shift Indicator Adjustment in 92-96 Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/434182
"...I always unhook the cable (shifting to L or 1 makes it easier), then spin the wheel. You can't really get to the indicator end to unhook it - I do it at the shifter (wheel) end. There's nothing inherently wrong with removing the wheel assy. But when you're trying to pull the cluster, it's easier to feed the bare cable end back around the column & thru the wiring harness..."


As usual, when I pulled my cluster out, our diggie cam took a hike south.
now you can replace any of da bulbs.

Some backgrnd. info for you;
Cluster removal by Steve83 http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/760981

Gauge Cluster Shell Difference pics, Front View, with & without Tach in 92-96 Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/279707

Similarities, Mounting, & Removal info & pics in 80-96 Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
"...92-96 Instrument Cluster Parts
The PSOM, lens, blackout ring, terminal clips, shifter plates, bulbs & holders are interchangeable between cases. '87-96 gauges are only held in by their terminal clips, except the speedo. '80-91 speedos are held in by 2 screws; '92-97 PSOMs are held captive by the surrounding gauge faces. '80-86 use the same case for tach & non-tach, with a blank face for non-tach. '80-86 gauges are held in by stamped nuts on threaded studs. The fuel, oil, & temperature gauge bodies are identical & interchangeable by prying the needle off & removing the 2 screws holding the body to the face plate. To reinstall the needle, the gauge must be powered & have a known signal applied (usually the minimum) before stabbing the needle so it points to the proper reading. The screws are 5.5mm (7/32") hex with T15... by STEVE83 at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/774679

One thAng is, Gauges/cluster need to be stored in vertical or face-up positions. do Not lay any gauge or cluster face down; it will leak the dampening fluid. UPS still owes me $128.95 for Not following concise written shiiping instructions about placing the "Face-Up" labels on my cluster that I sent out to have it checked by a great shop (DNA Speedometers) (http://www.dnaspeedometers.com/index.htm); Tampa, FL 33614

PSOM Pin-Out Diagram (Intenal)
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/678187_1
 

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penis
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Discussion Starter #5
Well since mine is a 95 then wouldn't it be easier to replace the gauge cluster? (I hate all this electrical crap) But I am pretty sure I have chased it to a bad connection or a bad PSOM itself.
 

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yo; you can try a cluster swap; I have only one reliable yard left here that will Exchange or Refund $ for elect/elex items such as a PSOM or cluster.
For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;
http://www.mypartshop.com
Select year, etc, then FORD TRUCK
Some show mileage on the Odometer.... I got one for $95.00; I did get $ back when I returned it a week later.
 

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penis
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Discussion Starter #7
Cool did that but the only ones close to me are coming up 50-100 miles away LMAO I will try local yards though. I would have done it today but I slept all day. I hate working 3rd shift so hopefully I can find one here locally or try craigslist and look for someone parting out a 92-96 F-series, and Broncos.
 

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ok, keep in mind that 94-96 are the same; due to Air Bag (SRS) indicator lights
Steve83 has some for sale;
'94-96 Tachometer Cluster 95 Bronco w/tach
107...K miles
PSOM can be deleted or swapped for different mileage
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/774672
and I believe truck clusters don't have the Amber 4WABS ind lt.
 

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ok, thanks for getting back with that.
If you need to know how to ADD miles to the PSOM; look in my site... Steve has a process.
GL!
 

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penis
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Discussion Starter #11
ok, thanks for getting back with that.
If you need to know how to ADD miles to the PSOM; look in my site... Steve has a process.
GL!
LOL I need to lose mileage LMAO.... I gained 80,000 miles and the temp gauge is a little off. And ty for your help hopefully with the symptoms I listed this will lead people into the right direction.
 

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psom

hey guys, so im new to the thread and i was wondering if you guys could help me. i bough a 1994 bronco eddie bauer about a month ago. i ripped the seats out as well as the carpet. while taking the carpet out i found wires everywhere! this things more than a few aftermarket stereo installs. so i cut it all out. took all the aftermarket wiring out then i hop in to move it and my psom is dead. every other gauge works except my speedo/odo. i replaced it with one out of an f150 from the same year and it didnt help. so im thing i cut one too many wires. anyone have a schematic or advice to help me out? anything would be very much appreciated. thx guys!
 

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hey guys, so im new to the thread and i was wondering if you guys could help me. i bough a 1994 bronco eddie bauer about a month ago. i ripped the seats out as well as the carpet. while taking the carpet out i found wires everywhere! this things more than a few aftermarket stereo installs. so i cut it all out. took all the aftermarket wiring out then i hop in to move it and my psom is dead. every other gauge works except my speedo/odo. i replaced it with one out of an f150 from the same year and it didnt help. so im thing i cut one too many wires. anyone have a schematic or advice to help me out? anything would be very much appreciated. thx guys!
YO sonicspeed;
WELCOME!

Use this Wiring Diagram to check from Rear Axle Sensor (also ref to as RABS/DSS/ VSS)
through connectors and 4WABS Control Module, etc to PSOM

by Steve83


C205M & C202F (in Engine Bay at Firewall to Dash Harness
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/909442
Connector pic(s) by Steve

C205F In line (in Engine Bay at Firewall to Dash Harness)
C205F (Inside, from Engine Bay at Firewall to Dash Harness)
Pin-Out Diagram in 92-96
Source: by Steve83
by Steve83 http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/744437

C202F http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/909442
C202M http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/909442

C119 4WABS Control Module Location in Engine Bay Diagram in a 94
Source: by Kenny B (Ken B, Kenny's 94) at SuperMotors.net

Below ws washer/coolant recovery tank
C119
4WABS Connector Pin-Out Diagrams for 93-96
Source: by Steve83

In the large controller connector, pin #1 is L top (530 LG/Y); pin #15 is L center (498 Pk); pin #40 is R bottom (495 T).
In the HCU component connector, pin #1 is top L (532 Or/Y); pin #4 is top R (532 Or/Y); pin #6 is bottom L-center (495 T).




again @ C202M AND C202F

C252 at PSOM
Connector C252 Pin-Out Diagram in a 94
Source: by Mikey350 at SuperMotors.net
 

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thx for all the diagrams, they really helped!!
sorry to get back to you so late but ive been really busy. i actually just stared working at a ford dealership and were the second busiest in canada.

im still waiting on my pin-out kit from snap-on, but the other day i went to test some curcuits on the truck and i found that it wouldnt start!! i could hear the stater solenoid clicking but the engine wont turn over.!! so basiclly heres where im at. im gonna order a new starter, but i also want to throw a new engine in which i will be ordering next week. so do you think it will be easier to diag with out the engine in it?

also the engine light, abs light, and the airbag light are on. when i bought it the air bag and abs lights ere on but i didnt think anything of it. ill have to grab the scanner and see what codes are poping up but for the moment its parked in the back yard.

once again, any ideas that could help me?
 

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thx for all the diagrams, they really helped!!
sorry to get back to you so late but ive been really busy. i actually just stared working at a ford dealership and were the second busiest in canada.

im still waiting on my pin-out kit from snap-on, but the other day i went to test some curcuits on the truck and i found that it wouldnt start!! i could hear the stater solenoid clicking but the engine wont turn over.!! so basiclly heres where im at. im gonna order a new starter, but i also want to throw a new engine in which i will be ordering next week. so do you think it will be easier to diag with out the engine in it?

also the engine light, abs light, and the airbag light are on. when i bought it the air bag and abs lights ere on but i didnt think anything of it. ill have to grab the scanner and see what codes are poping up but for the moment its parked in the back yard.

once again, any ideas that could help me?

yo,
If you pull engine, then scan for Codes, you'll get a bunch of codes for various sensors
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT)
Idle Air Control (IAC)
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
etc.


So check the connectors & wiring in my last post.


For airbag
Testing, in a 94 Video; "...how to read (light fault codes); applies to 94-96 Froncos and F150s..."; MIESK5 Note, Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window
Source: by pfun41 at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLTWMukybZE&lr=1

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4WABS (93-96)
Self Test & Pin-Point Testing, Connector Pin-Out Diagrams & Wiring Diagram in 93-96 Bronco; This is same as in Ford EVTM/PCED/Workshop Manual; complete and all in one URL
Source: by AutoZone http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038ec27

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No Crank, Relay Clicks/Buzzes;
First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relay should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the MLPS, Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans to the starter relay and the on to the starter solenoid and starter. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit

check Serpentine belt for looseness or broken
and all cables and connectors to and from batty and alternator, including ground cables; pull batty and have it load tested for free at parts store


There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay.
Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is...";
see Starter (@) Relay Jumping Image in 92-96 @ http://www.broncolin...mpinin92-96.JPG - Sewiw shows a remote start switch's Jumpers; you can use a small jumper;



No Crank Condition; with key off; turn headlight on; are they ON? Does Horn work (assuming it has worked recently)? Check Alternator Belt &the tensioner; Headlights are white and bright --- This means the battery has 12 volts or so but it does not tell us if the battery is capable of providing the amps necessary to turn the starter over. First quickly touch each battery cable connection at the battery. If either one is warm to the touch, that indicates a bad connection. Wiggle, push and pull the battery cables back and forth and see if the headlights come on white and bright. If the headlights come back on and as you hold the cable to one side or another, have someone try and start the car. More than likely, it will start. Work towards white and bright headlights first. Even if you can't get the headlights to shine white and bright by wiggling the cables or ends, then you might next try to jump start your dead battery.If the starter is bad and you hit it with a hammer a couple of times..."
Source: by Mark S at Salem Boys Auto

"...It can click/buzz from several causes:-A weak battery. Not enough juice to crank it once the solenoid closes. Buzz. Bad cables. Look for swollen places in the insulation, white or green dust/corrosion, worn or burnt places, stiff sections, etc. See pic E below. If you replace them, try to get a larger diameter cable. Stock is typically 4 gauge, changing to a 2 or 0 gauge will pay off in the long run. Loose cables. Negative from the battery where it attaches to the engine is a common location, but check them all. Dirty cable connections. Don't just clean the outside, clean where the cable contacts the post & where the other end connects too. Cheap clamp on ends. See pics D & E below. Only good for a trail fix to get you to the store to buy a real cable. -A bad solenoid (Yeah, I said solenoid. Call it a starter relay if you want. I'm old. We've always called it a solenoid, so there. Solenoid, solenoid solenoid). A loose starter that hangs up against the flywheel when it tries to crank. It jams, overloads & drops the voltage. A bad starter. Many auto parts stores will test them. A frozen engine. Serious breakage inside, hydrolocked, rusted solid, badly broken trans keeping the engine from rotating, etc. If you've had both grinding & buzzing, check the starter mounting bolts, since loose bolts can cause both..."
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at F
 
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