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Discussion Starter #1
I've read that codes should be pulled from a warmed up system but what if you are dealing with a no start? What codes, if any, will be consider false faults? thanks guys my 95 EB FSB 5.8 did not start when I got it, brought it to my shop and it did fire up and drive but when I parked it back in my shop its a no start again. I'm just doing a little homework before I dig into it tomorrow. . . . . this should be fun, I have no knowledge whatsoever of its history got it at an auction lol
 

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It will still give codes(if you have any)when cold.
Some of the systems do need to be at operating temps but not all, fuel pump codes are an example
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks, I pulled some codes after I got it running and am still researching them on the board here. was just wondering if a cold engine would give some false codes because its not up to temp. I also noticed some emissions eqpt is missing, egr and some canister stuff maybe air pump stuff. I'll hafta sort some of that out to, I'm sure that will throw some codes as well. When it started it ran well, went down the road and back no prob. came back and no start again glad I parked it where I wanted it lol.


could pulling emission equiptment improperly give a intermittent no start condition?
 

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The computer knows if the engine is warmed up or not, unless the coolant sensor is bad or unplugged.
The first thing I would do is replace all that emission stuff that is missing. Not only could the missing parts cause driveability issues it will drive your computer crazy and throw all sorts of codes.
 

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Usually you will simply get codes for coolant temp below expected values, that sort of thing.

If you can get it to start, try running a KOER test, as that can give additional information.

If someone has disabled emissions equipment, there could be other issues from half-assed wiring modifications. Intermittent no start is often related to wiring issues such as bad grounds or loose connections.
 

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Here is a link to one of Steve83's diagrams, this should help you figure out what is missing and where the vac lines go. There are a few more diagrams at the bottom of that page, make sure you click those too.
And like mentioned above check all your wiring and connections, if the PO was dumb enough to remove needed parts he probably hacked other sh*t too

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/252398
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks all great info, when I first noticed some of the emissions gone my first thought was to start replacing those items. Whoever owned this truck put some money into it, engine has been out and rebuilt, has aftermarket headers and I have the cam card (comp cams performance gring for this efi), new exhaust, nice drop bracket lift and tires. it was definitely somebody's baby, body is mostly original and very clean.

I think my first order of biz is going to be to go through all the sensors and figure was has been removed and go through whats there and make sure they are functioning. it does not appear to co cobbled in any way but there are a few loose plugs here an there.

I figured Steve would have a diagram or something I needed :D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
just out of curiosity is it even possible to retain the AIR pump and system with headers? Seems to me that may be unnecessarily difficult to try and retain and some of the associated sensors I may need to get around. Any threads on doing this? Not de-emissioning it but making the whole EFI play nice with mild performance mods (cam an headers)





edit: anyone tell me what these are? The black round one is over where the AIR pump stuff was and was plugged into a socket, i am assuming it is some sort of sensor delete. The little grey one was in the ash tray, i know i have seen them somewhere before but cant recall . . . .
 

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yo,
engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thank ya sir, it did actually start today so i may warm it up and do both tests. Installing a good mech oil pressure gauge at the moment. It has some upper end chatter that sounds like the lifters are collapsing. Engine has been out and rebuilt but who knows. Just covering some bases . . . . any idea what those things are?
 

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thank ya sir, it did actually start today so i may warm it up and do both tests. Installing a good mech oil pressure gauge at the moment. It has some upper end chatter that sounds like the lifters are collapsing. Engine has been out and rebuilt but who knows. Just covering some bases . . . . any idea what those things are?
The little grey one looks like the SPOUT connector and it needs to be installed. Without it the computer cannot advance the timing. It being removed is probably part of your drivability problem. It is removed only when setting the base timing. Search "timing" for more info.
I would check your timing first thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks, yes that sounds right. I knew i seen that grey thing plugged in somewhere.

looks like the motors come'in out :D . . . . . oil press gauge shows notta . . . or close to it lol. Better safe then sorry and as of today i have a total of about forty dollars in the entire thing . . . . and that includes what i paid for it lol (yes you read that right :cool:)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
hmmm . . . . just for the heck of it i pulled the distributor and put a drill to the pump. Got fifty plus pounds spinning the drill and felt plenty of load on it. Put it all back together fired it up and pressure came up to twenty or thirty then dropped to nuthin . . . . . somethin aint right in there . . . . :confused:
 

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Something can have oil pressure when cold and then lose it all as soon as the oil thins up slightly. You aren't heating the oil when you test pressure with a drill. It is heating up when the engine is on. You could probably drain the oil that's in there, move up a weight or two in oil and drive it for a while like that if you needed to.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I thought about that, maybe toss in some 20/50 but this thing has been out and rebuilt very recently so theres no real reason for it to not have decent pressure unless something is very wrong plus cold oil should yield higher pressures. I dont really need the truck till this winter and it appears to have some nice parts on it. Prolly best to just pluck it and open it up. I did an oil pump on my 93 5.0 what a pain in the azz lol never again . . . . may have been quicker to just pull the darn thing. The other thing in my mind is it has been out not all that long ago so it really shouldnt be much of a fight :cool:
 

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From what's always happened to me by the time a 302 could be/needs to be rescued with a new oil pump you may as well pull the whole thing and rebuild it because the rest of it is tired too.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
hmmm . . . . anybody see the smokin gun to my oil prob? :eek:

the motor has been out and rebuilt very recently(very), again i have no prior knowledge of this thing because i got it from an auction. All new stuff throughout with lots of goodies, someone took their time on it (except for the obvious below lol). Double roller timing set, COMP Cams Xtreme Energy 35-349-8 bump stick, etc. Pulled the pans and all the bearing caps and all appears to be un hurt with the number eight rob bearing looking to have been just a tad dry so that and a new HV pump should make all happy again . . . . an the gasket lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
couple of Q's for you guys

pic 2,3 and 4 - these were loose when i got the truck what do they go to?

pic 5 - are O2 sensor leads available aftermarket, mine was close to the header and is a bit crispy and I'd like to replace it. JY item?

thanks all . . .
 

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