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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll start from the begining, when I bought the truck!
Last Apr, about 18000 miles ago:
A1Cardone?? Steering box
Draglink and tierod assembly Tire to tire NEW! (moog)
Center pivot bushings (car quest/MOOG)
Radius arm bushings
Moog HD front springs
Monroe reflex shocks all the way around.
New wheel bearings, front rotors, calipers, rear cylinders and ALL HARDWEAR!!
and of course a allignment to follow. It drove %100 better, HOWEVER I was never satisfied with the remaining slop (from the SHIET steering box). I just drove it and really didn't worry about the slop for about 18,000, until I bought a new set of tires, 31X10.50 15 Cooper STT's. After the tires I realized that something else was definately wearing and the truck was pulling to the LEFT and with a little brake pedal the pull got much worse, (bad caliper/ wheel cylinder). I took it to Les Schwab and the tech. said the brakes were fine and that it needed a camber bushing kit and allignment. On further inspection I realized the Ball joints were WIPED!!
I replace the ball joints, spindle bearing's, CV/Ujoints, wheel seals, ect.
Return to Schwabs for a allignment, when I get it back it STILL PULLS LEFT! The tech sais that he thinks the steering box is a POS, I agree and replace it with a reman from FORD!
And Return to Schwabs for another allignment, get it back and it still pulls LEFT!!! :barf:barf:barf:barf

I have inspected the calipers and wheel cylinders. All front pads are wearing even, no distinguistable difference in heat from side to side after a drive. Rear cylinders are working????

Rear axle hasn't moved, I looked very closely.

The pull gets worse with brake application, I thought that would be brakes!!!

HELP PLEASE!!
 

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Are your tires properly aired up? Mine right now pulls hard to the left because I have a slow leak on my drivers front tire. Air it up and it goes away. Something to check...
 

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Are your tires properly aired up? Mine right now pulls hard to the left because I have a slow leak on my drivers front tire. Air it up and it goes away. Something to check...

X2 same thing happened to me but was pulling right.
but the tire presure fixed me up..
 

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Did the pulling start immediately after you put the new tires on it? If the air pressure is right you could have a radial pull, try taking the front left tire and swapping it for the rear.
 

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+1 on the radial pull

Also most allignment shops only set the toe. If your Caster is off it'll pull..
 

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Side step it
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All three of those things previously mentioned link together! I just went through them all recently. I replaced the alignment bushings with adjustable ones and Les Schwab align it the best they could since the new drag link was a little hammered from me removing it to align it the best I could till I could get it into a shop. Cost just a little over a hundred to adjust camber/caster & toe, but even with the bad drag link it was way better. If your alignment was about $55 or so all they did was the toe. You have replaced everything I have replaced, even new tires, but when they adjusted the camber correctly it finally feels like the tires are riding flat on the ground again! Now that I replaced the drag link, I have an appointment on Monday to have it re-aligned to set the toe & double check the rest to put this to rest once & for all, well till I knock it out again. At least that will just be the toe from now on....!:thumbup-Kevin-
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did the pulling start immediately after you put the new tires on it? If the air pressure is right you could have a radial pull, try taking the front left tire and swapping it for the rear.
The most recent allignment was a complete caster, camber and toe adjustment. $165 In fact I have the spec sheet next to me now!

Left Right
0.1 camber 0.4
3.1 caster 4.6
0.04 Toe 0.03

Cross camber -.03
cross caster -1.5
total toe 0.07

I NOTICED the pull after the tires!!! The week that I bought the tires the truck was working and alot of the driving was in the snow. The first visit to schwabs the tech mentioned "radial pull" and the tech said he swaped the right front to the left front ect. Not front right to left rear ect.

Tire pressure:
I checked it the first time I noticed the pull, I haven't since. I will be checking it as soon as I walk away from the comp.
 

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Wrenching for a Livin'
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if it gets worse with braking...i would check your brake hoses. The style hoses our broncos use can collapse and swell causing really wierd problems. If you had your brakes done at a shop they should have reccomended new hoses.
 

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Side step it
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if it gets worse with braking...i would check your brake hoses. The style hoses our broncos use can collapse and swell causing really wierd problems. If you had your brakes done at a shop they should have reccomended new hoses.
Not to hi-jack but I've read different opinions on steel braided lines. I put them on my 77' F150 & my 74' F100 and they made the pedal feel better, more solid feel. Would that benefit a 96' with 4-abs? I considered replacing mine when I had the pull problem. Will it affect the abs function since they don't give/swell like rubber do? I'm not sure that is the reason, just heard abs systems aren't compatible with braided hoses! :thumbup-Kevin-
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The rad bushings are about 18000 miles old, they LOOK OK, they are poly as well. Don't you just bottom the nut out on the threads, I don't think you can tighten them up (non adjustable). If they are loose, they should be replaced.

I'm on the brake line thing as well!!

I'll keep you in the loop.
 

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The rad bushings are about 18000 miles old, they LOOK OK, they are poly as well. Don't you just bottom the nut out on the threads, I don't think you can tighten them up (non adjustable). If they are loose, they should be replaced.

I'm on the brake line thing as well!!

I'll keep you in the loop.
Thanks :thumbup My Poly radius arm bushings bottomed out by the time I torqued them to 100 ft lbs too. Steve83 wrote about this IIRC and I think it's fine, at least mine have been for about 5 years! (Ha!Ha!) :thumbup-Kevin-
 

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I put on new rubber one's first, but after about 5000 miles, I changed them to the poly ones, and it made a world of difference with mine.
 

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Both the camber and caster indicate a pull tendency to the left.The caster spec for a Bronco is 2.0* to 6.0* with a split of -.5* +/-.4*.The camber spec is .25* +/- .5* with a split of 0* +/-.4*.Also if you have a steering pull,it will pull worse when braking.These specs are for a 1996 Bronco.The only difference for a 1992-1994 Bronco off of a tsb is the caster has split of 0* +/-.5*.The caster should be set to the higher end of the specs.
 

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The most recent allignment was a complete caster, camber and toe adjustment. $165 In fact I have the spec sheet next to me now!

Left Right
0.1 camber 0.4
3.1 caster 4.6
0.04 Toe 0.03

Cross camber -.03
cross caster -1.5
total toe 0.07

I NOTICED the pull after the tires!!! The week that I bought the tires the truck was working and alot of the driving was in the snow. The first visit to schwabs the tech mentioned "radial pull" and the tech said he swaped the right front to the left front ect. Not front right to left rear ect.

Tire pressure:
I checked it the first time I noticed the pull, I haven't since. I will be checking it as soon as I walk away from the comp.
While the individual caster specs are in line, the cross caster has a fairly bad split. I can see why it pulls left.
 

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Cleaning the trails
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The 1.5 deg of additional caster on the right will make it push to the right. If they could get the right caster closer to the 3.1 it would drive better. I spent a day reading up on aligning the TTB and have done it myself with a digital level and a flat driveway. With the inherent quirks of the TTB, it takes a little tweaking of the caster to get it to run straight down the road. If interested, I can find the link or the document that goes into the detail of aligning the TTB after being set withng factory specs. I use the Spicer adjustable bushings so tweaking it is not to much of a hassle. Just have to keep a record of what it does after each adjustment. I am too cheap to pay for an alignment, so I did it on my own. No abnormal tire wear other than the rock rash from off roading. It may be coincindental, but the braking had issues also until I got the steering to go straight without a pull
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I went to the OTHER Schwabs shop here in town and the lead tech confirmed that with a 1.5* spread in the caster it should be pulling left??? :doh0715:

I don't have time to get it in for a couple days. Their gonna honor the warranty on the allignment.

I guess it pays to show a problem to another set of eyes. I'm sure the first shop just over looked it??? :twak

Another thing I noticed:
It is a measurable amount harder to turn right than it is to turn left.

I'm guessing this has to do with the caster as well????
 
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