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1995 Bronco OEM 302,auto,3.55 gears,muffler delete,3"pitman,31" tires,lockout hubs,factory wheels
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if this is first time you're doing this, I'd suggest get someone who has an electric impact gun to tighten up the puller on the pitman arm, then hit it with a BIG HAMMER on the pitman right where it is on the shaft, don't hit the shaft, hit the pitman, it should pop off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
the only way you could have removed the box and have the other end of pitman arm still attached, is if the right inner tie rod was still attached ? I split those apart with a tie rod fork and hammer.

View attachment 179071
Dang it! Another special tool? I wonder if I heated up the pitman arm with a torch I could then smack it off with the hammer? The puller is still attached under tension. Although the ends of the puller fork are bending under the tension instead of pulling the arm down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
did you get the one that looks like this?

that's what i've used in the past. i've also cut the back side of the pitman arm to release it in combination with the puller. i've also used penetrating oil, heat, and a BFH. i'm not sure i've ever reused a pitman arm b/c by the time i'm done removing them they are usually destroyed.

View attachment 178874
That was the puller I got originally, but I switched to a smaller one. I've got a puller still on there under tension, and I've gone a few rounds with PB blaster as well. maybe today I'll try to heat up the arm with a torch. I've ordered a new arm because this one is on the way to beign destroyed, but now I need to remove the other end of the pitman that connects to the tie rod.
 

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they also make a puller that is the same shape as the pitman arm puller but smaller. that could also knock it loose. or a pickle fork. or the one right above me. you have options there.

and once you get that steering gear free and the pitman arm released from the rest of the tie rod end, you should have an easier time. and worst case scenario, take it to your local corner mechanic and pay them $20 to remove it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Heated the arm with a torch today and hit with a hammer. No joy. This is really aggravating. I guess I need to find time to get to harbor freight for those tools.
 

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I fu*ked with mine for about 2 hours before I realized driving all over town borrowing or buying tools and wasting time just wasn't worth the 30 bucks for a new arm
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I fu*ked with mine for about 2 hours before I realized driving all over town borrowing or buying tools and wasting time just wasn't worth the 30 bucks for a new arm
Dude! I bought a new arm but still need to get the current one off.
 

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Dude! I bought a new arm but still need to get the current one off.
Maybe I'm lost but why do you need to get the old pitman arm off if you are replacing the entire box? Or are you talking about the tie rod?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Maybe I'm lost but why do you need to get the old pitman arm off if you are replacing the entire box? Or are you talking about the tie rod?
I need to at least get the tie rod end separated so I can eventually get the arm off the box.
 

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I need to at least get the tie rod end separated so I can eventually get the arm off the box.
Well, like mentioned a pickle fork and 2lb sledge should do the trick. Those are nothing compared to getting the pitman arm off
 

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1995 Bronco OEM 302,auto,3.55 gears,muffler delete,3"pitman,31" tires,lockout hubs,factory wheels
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you need a bigger hammer, I would not heat the pitman arm, the heat will go up into the steering box and ruin the seals, valves inside it.
there's no reason to change the pitman arm unless it's bent, or the tapered hole to attach the drag link is distorted/damaged. if you needed a new drag link just knock the drag link off. you are removing the nuts first right ? it's not that hard to get this stuff off. I'm a little confused as to what you're doing there as well, thought you were removing the drag link, then you're removing the pitman arm ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Yes I’m removing the pitman arm to change the steering box. I’ve done this before on my other bronco but this 1990 I just got won’t cooperate. I’m getting a pickle fork today.
 

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1995 Bronco OEM 302,auto,3.55 gears,muffler delete,3"pitman,31" tires,lockout hubs,factory wheels
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the pickle fork it used to remove ball joints, and tie rods, not pitman arms.
a pitman arm puller removes the pitman arm.
if you have the steering box off already, the only way you could remove it,
was with the right hand inner tie rod still attached to the pitman arm ?
and the pitman arm still attached to the steering box ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
the pickle fork it used to remove ball joints, and tie rods, not pitman arms.
a pitman arm puller removes the pitman arm.
if you have the steering box off already, the only way you could remove it,
was with the right hand inner tie rod still attached to the pitman arm ?
and the pitman arm still attached to the steering box ?
That's correct. It is the situation I have right now. I've tried multiple pitman arm pullers. All have failed. So I've decided to remove the box and then remove the inner tie rod with the pickle fork. Then I can bring the box, with attached pitman arm, over to my bench and just cut it off. Try to avoid having cut stuff off in general, but I think that's where I'm at.
 

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1995 Bronco OEM 302,auto,3.55 gears,muffler delete,3"pitman,31" tires,lockout hubs,factory wheels
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you MUST obtain/borrow a HIGH POWER electric impact gun that runs on 18 volts, and put it on HIGHEST setting, and tighten the puller. hand tools won't do it. now that you've dropp the steering box off the frame, you have nothing to hold it steady- you'll have to put in it in a vise. and you should have removed the inner tie rod first, so you just have a steering box with pitman arm to work on. you never need to cut a pitman arm off ! what you need is a high power impact gun with a 6 point socket for the nut, and also another smaller 6 point socket for the puller. tighten it up, when you see the puller start to flex, hit it with a BMFH, the hammer head should be the size of both your fists put together, or it's too small, and you should have to put a lotta effort into swinging the hammer, or it's too small. the hammer head should be the size of a beer can or even bigger. smack the side of the pitman where it's pressed on the shaft, it'll pop. but first it must be preloaded- a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Well guys the pickle fork worked. I’ve got the steering box, with pitman still attached, off the truck and new gearbox installed.

BTW I tried the impact gun but no dice. All it did was bend and destroy my puller. Think I may try to flip the box upside dow and pound the box out of the arm. But with a new arm coming I may just keep it attached when I return it for the core deposit
 
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