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Discussion Starter #1
Got some questions about the operation of the push button 4wd on my 93 EB. I am use to the seamless in and out operation of the system on my 2000 Explorer but when i hit the button on my EB FSB it seem to kind of clunk and groan a bit going in and out. I just tried it for the first time tonight as we had some snow here. Turning around in my back lot the steering wheel has a kind of a wobble when engaged and turning but out on the road going straight it did not seem to have it. It did seem to complain a bit with an ocasional thump or dull clunk kind of sound but for the most part not bad down the road. When i disengage its kind of hard to tell if its still in or out, seems harsh when it eventually pops out. Are there better hubs out there that work smoother the the stock auto hubs? Do i need to do anything other then hit the button when i want to engage/disengage (is this an on the fly operation like my Explorer). Or are these signs of other problems i should look into. Thanks all.
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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Check out your hubs first. It's not uncommon to have issues with autohubs. They are not controlled by the dash switch, but when the t-case shifts to 4wd, the turning axles are supposed to cause them to engage. Most of swap them out for the more reliable manuals.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think i had heard that here before, swap to manual hubs. The ones on there now at this point kinda make me nervous, maybe I'm not use to this thing yet but it sure seems vague at best. My old 86 i would just throw the hubs in when the weather and roads were gonna be crappy and shift in and out on the fly with the manual T case. Did that with most of the old school truck i had but ya gotta be careful on some of them. I had an old 82 Toyota custom truck that breezed in and out of 4wd. Accidentally bumped it in once and didnt catch it. Found out with a bang when i exploded the front differential grinding my truck to a screaching halt going down the road. Scared the crap out of me and when i figured out what happened i just un locked the hubs and got her home. I think i will have to find some manual hubs for this thing. Not having the owners manual for this truck i wasnt sure if i had to back up a certain distance to disengage the auto hubs or something like that.


Anyone have any hub suggestions?
 

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Yes, you need to back up for 15 feet or so to make sure they unlock. If you haven't been doing that, it's probably what is causing the harsh disengagement. \

Any Milemarkers will work, their non-flashy ones are only around 40 bucks. Or Warns. You may need a automatic conversion kit, especially if the automatics hubs are held on with 3 screws instead of 5. Search hubs, plenty of threads.
 

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change out hubs first. but you need to back up with auto hubd to ensure disengagement.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
great info thanks, this is my first FSB with this set up and i thought i had heard that long ago about backing up to disengage them. My other trucks were all full manual. So, just for clarification, when i hit the button to disengage and keep going down the road it just keeps the hubs in but the transfer still goes out case out? So i wont bind up the driveline possibly damaging something (theoretically anyway lol)? I only need it for snow as i dont really do an wheeling (sorry :D). I really like the convenience of the push button stuff but this 'ol system sure aint like the one in my Explorer, The whole thing makes me nervous especially after searching threads here and see how overwhelmingly people swap out to the manual stuff. I think i am going to at the very least put the manual hubs on for now and look into getting rid of the actuator motor. Sure is a vague operation at best.
 

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yo,

Operational Test; Remember to block the wheels. This would work for testing manual hubs too, just lock them 1st; "...Place transfercase in 2HI or Neutrall. 2. Lying under vehicle, turn front drive shaft (one direction only). 3. Automatic hubs should lock after 1 to 5 turns of driveshaft (one direction only). After step 3 the hubs should lock, youll know they are locked becouse you will hear a click from both hubs and you will no longer be able to turn the front drive shaft (in the same direction). If this is not the case then continue to step 4. If you can no longer turn the drive shaft (in the same direction) then skip to step 7. 4. If you can still turn the drive shaft (one direction only) then one or more of your Auto hubs is not working. 5. Continuing to turn the Drive shaft (one direction only). 6. Look at the u-joints for the front stub axles, if both are turning then both front hubs are malfunctioning, if only one is turning then the one that is not turning is locked and the one turning is malfuctioning. Replace as necosary (preferably with manual hubs, Auto hubs have Yams in them) 7. To unlock the hubs, turn drive shaft in opisat direction untill you hear a click from the hubs. To check for transfercase engagement. 1. Place pushbutton transfercase in either 4 HI or 4LO. 2. lie under vehicle. 3. You should not be able to turn front drive-shaft in either direction. 4. If you can turn the front drive shaft then your transfer case is not shifting properly..."
Source: by Gacknar (The Mall-Crawler, Jeremy, "Big grey megga beast") at FSB


Also, Take time to read through and dnld this; some folks here & in other Forums don't seem to have time to read it.

Four Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 for 92 & Prior Year Bronco, F Series & Ranger; Includes Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Troubleshooting after 92 & Hub Operation by FORD


Bearing Locknut Torque for 95-96 3 Screw AUTO Hubs; While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten to 68 N-m (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). Tighten to 1.8 N-m (16 Lb-In)."


3 screw to Warn® w/ Bearing Locknut Torque Settings in a 95 (but his TORQUES are off a bit). miesk5 NOTE: "Word for word from Haynes Manual Ford Pickups and Bronco 1980 - 1996 Using a lockout spanner (ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent ) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.)" thanks to Chris!!!!
Source: by TRUCKY18 (Bco) at http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=3749&s=14884#content

3 Hole Cap Screw Hubs, You Must Purchase Corresponding Spindle Nut Conversion Kit; note H; "When Replacing Automatic 3 Hole Cap Screw Hubs, You Must Purchase Corresponding Spindle Nut Conversion Kit"
Source: by Warn® http://www.warn.com/truck/hubs/premium_application_chart.shtml

More swap LINKs in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=107

in Dana 44-IFS Front Drive Axle, Bronco and F-150 4x4 with Automatic Hub Locks Diagram below

Item Part Number Description
1 3219 Shaft
2 3B402 Axle Arm Assembly
3 3B177 Pivot Bushing
4 3010 Housing
5 � RTV Gasket (Form in Place)
6 4222 Differential Bearing Cup
7 3L387 Slip-Shaft
8 4A460 Seal
9 802857 Keystone Clamp
10 3A429 Boot
11 3249 Front Axle Shaft Universal Joint
12 3M387 Shaft
13 3254 Oil Seal
14 3L123/1225 Bearing
15 3167 C-Clip
16 3204 Differential Case
17 350672-S Bolt
18 4211 Differential Pinion Shaft
19 4230 Differential Pinion Thrust Washer
20 4228 Differential Side Gear Thrust Washer
21 4236 Differential Side Gear
22 4215 Pinion Gear
23 � Cap and Bolt, Differential Bearing (Part of 3010)
24 4221 Differential Bearing
25 4067 Differential Bearing Shim
26 3254 Differential Seal
27 4670 Baffle
28 4672 Shim
29 4628 Pinion Bearing Cup
30 4630 Differential Pinion Bearing
31 3B067 Selective Shim Slinger
32 3222 Ring Gear and Drive Pinion
33 3B440 Camber Adjuster
34 357228-S Roll Pin
35 4851 Front Axle Companion Flange (Universal Joint)
36 351126-S Nut
37 356504-S Washer
38 4859 Drive Pinion Seal Deflector
39 4676 Drive Pinion Seal
40 4670 Drive Pinion Shaft Oil Slinger
41 4621 Differential Pinion Bearing
42 4616 Differential Drive Pinion Bearing Cup
43 4109 Drive Pinion Shim (Preload)
44 � (Part of 3B403) Weld Nut
45 3C132 Axle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS)
46 3B403 Axle Arm Assembly
47 72035-S Pin
48 3A049 Nut
49 3049 Front Suspension Upper Ball Joint
50 3A050 Nut
51 3050 Front Suspension Lower Arm Ball Joint
52 3K050 Snap Ring
53 373912-S Stop Screw
54 33925-S Jam Nut
55 3130 Steering Knuckle (RH)
56 3131 Steering Knuckle (LH)
57 87747-S2 Filler Plug
58 2K004 Front Disc Brake Rotor Shield (RH)
59 3299 Integral Spacer/Seal
60 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle
61 3105 Front Wheel Spindle
62 3254 Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS)
(F-150 and Bronco Only)
63 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal
64 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing
65 4222 Inner Wheel Bearing Cup
66 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor
67 � (Part of 1102) Hub
68 35704 Nut
69 4222 Outer Wheel Bearing Cup
70 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing
71 � Wheel Retainer (Nut)
(Part of 1K105)
72 3B549 Wheel Retainer Key
73 � Cam Assembly
(Part of 1K105)
74 � Steel Thrust Washer � Nonsplined (Part of 3B458)
75 � Plastic Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458)
76 � Steel Thrust Washer � Splined (Part of 3B458)
77 3B457 C-Ring
78 1K105 Hub Body
79 � Lock Ring (Part of 1K106)
80 1K104 Cap
81 1K104 Capscrew
A � Tighten to 95-122 Nm
(70-90 Lb-Ft)
B � Tighten Bolt to 108-122 Nm
(80-90 Lb-Ft)
C � Tighten to 244-271 Nm (180-200 Lb-Ft)
D � Tighten to 136 Nm
(100 Lb-Ft)
E � Tighten to 123-149 Nm
(91-110 Lb-Ft)
F � Tighten to 47 Nm (35 Lb-Ft)
G � While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). Tighten to
1.8 Nm (16 Lb-In).
H � Tighten to 4-6 Nm
(35-53 Lb-In)
 

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The Anti Yam!
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when i hit the button to disengage and keep going down the road it just keeps the hubs in but the transfer still goes out case out?
Correct.

If you get manual hubs you can just lock them at the beginning of winter and run them all winter locked, using the dash button to engage and disengage the transfer case.
 
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