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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not much of a body guy my brother is a welder by trade. Just wondering how many people have done quarter panel replacement and how bad of a job was it to remove and replace the panel I've done some researxh on it already it doesn't look terribly easy but I think we can do it! Any words of caution or wisdom befor I dive in head first? Any suggestions on good panels to use or any place to source the panels from im not looking for oem just because that's not in the budget
 

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I have one off right now on my project truck


I bought a replacement from NPD,$190, I searched for a nos ford one but came up empty
I would get one if I could find one

make sure you open the new one where ever you get it from before you leave
I opened 3 quarters to find one that wasn't bent on wheel lip


seems a decent fit

there is a crap load of spot welds to drill out
I cut the new quarter top on horizontal surface just after it folds over the top, I left the original top mating surface intact
and on the b post,i left about 1'' of metal and flanged it so the new quarter will sit flush and I should be able to metal finish the seam just below the factory seam
to install at the seam would be a huge job

there is a support piece spot welded into the tail light housing also,i drilled it out and left it attached to the box corner

where quarter fits at lower b post, check carefully, there is a gap in there, that is a body drain,if you plug it up, moisture will be trapped and rust out rear portion of rocker panel/lower b post

while you are there, good time to address the striker area of the b post, clean it up and seal the seams to prevent moisture from getting in there,the seams are the wrong way and let condensation into the seam

I have yet to weld it back on
 

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I did both mine and had never welded before. I replaced entire panel did not leave any of the old. Cut a hole on inside of b pillar to access inner seam and lip. I cut old one around perimeter with an air hammer and then used variety of methods to remove the rest that was welded on. I didn't think it was hard at all, just time consuming. I also drilled spot welds on part of the drip rails to remove some of the panel.
 

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Personally, unless the upper part of the quarter is rotted, I would cut the old one out in the middle of the body line(dent) especially if you have the wide upper trim. When doing a full quarter and the top is off you should add bracing that you can adjust. This allows you to tack the quarter and then close the T gate and doors to check all of your gaps. Structurally the body is quite weak when you remove both quarters at the same time. In vest in a spot weld cutter. It will greatly reduce your time. Also look at the inner dog house. If it is rusted now is definitely the time to replace that also. Good luck finding a straight replacement panels. The advice about inspecting is absolutely critical if you want avoid about 20-30 hours of extra body work. Even with straight panels be prepared for a lot of hours of priming and block sanding. Even the best replacements are fairly wavy.
Swamp
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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if you replace the entire panel i'd tack it on and set the top on to double check gaps before burning it on, tailgate as well. i didn't and my quarters go up hill and i had to shim the tailgate up to get it close. rookie mistake on my part not double checking the fit but live and learn .
 

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if you replace the entire panel i'd tack it on and set the top on to double check gaps before burning it on, tailgate as well. i didn't and my quarters go up hill and i had to shim the tailgate up to get it close. rookie mistake on my part not double checking the fit but live and learn .
great advice

I am installing top,door and tailgate before i finally attach mine
I also learned the hard way 20 some yrs back welded a rocker panel to a car without the door on:doh0715:
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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I'm telling you guys, your better off getting away from the welding. All the new cars glue there panels on today, and the foreign cars have been doing it 30+ years. This stuff is unbelievably strong. Grind all your mating surfaces then just use small hex head self tapping screws to hold it in place in a few spots, then once it's all aligned, mix the adhesive with the 3m gun and put the panel on, replace your screws and clamps then let it dry. Once cured, remove screws and clamps, fill the few holes and seams with some seam sealer and it's done. Not welds to grind, no warping or burn through, etc...

It seems that any place you weld, seems to rust out first.

Just my $0.02
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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Discussion Starter #15
Good info here guys hope to start doing some repairs on mine soon weathers making a turn for sprint thank god
 

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Cobrajoe thanks for the idea on the adhesive. I have to do my quarter panels one day and this stuff looks like it may be the way to go. How much of that stuff did it take to do yours?
 

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I would agree with CobraJoe on this. I did both of my quarters. One side I welded, and the other I used Nortons panel bond. My passengers side, the one I welded didn't fit well (aftermarket parts usually aren't perfct fit) and required grinding and manipulating of the spare tire support behind the panel. The drivers side I used the panel bond on. First it fell right into place, and second it was a ton easier, and less likely to rust. Quick pointer ALWAYS MEASURE YOUR OLD DIMENSIONS/ CLEARANCES BEFORE DOING ANY CUTTING. By this I mean door clearance, gap at the top from front of door to door post, and again the measurement on the bottom especially if you are replacing the upper and it or lower door posts. This is so critical in proper placement and fit and finish. Another note, you cannot use "glue" on structural pieces like the door posts.
You will need quite a few clamps with the panel bond. Get one that allows some workability time, as they vary on set time. This will allow you to maneuver it into proper position. Also you will need a new inner quarter as well. On mine after welding on the inner quarter, I used POR 15 with 5 coats, then I loaded it with seam sealer, and then 3 more coats of POR 15. As we all know ford has never solved their quarters rusting, and I am hoping by sealing out moisture and dirt from sitting in and rotting the metal, I can alleviate the Ford rust mess.
 
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