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Question about my new Scantool

11538 Views 41 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  miesk5
Bought an Equus 3140 scantool last week. I've always wanted a decent one but never got around to putting down the $$. While it was certainly not the cheapest, this one got good reviews, and does both OBD I and II. It also came with all of the necessary cables so it can be used for all of our cars. It even has a software to allow it to link to your PC for OBD II diaagnotics. Anyway, I hooked it up to the Bronco yesterday and wanted to see if I could do the KOEO test and pull the codes that I know are there. For whatever reason the reader did not want to link up. I tried it four separate times. Plugged it into the EEC test port and when the test first started the engine RPM's would jump up but then it would say that it failed to link up. Could there be a problem with my EEC test port?





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i've had my eye on that exact model for a few weeks now. cheapest i saw it for was $200 on amazon.

hope you get it straightened out. that must be frustrating as hell right now.
i've had my eye on that exact model for a few weeks now. cheapest i saw it for was $200 on amazon.

hope you get it straightened out. that must be frustrating as hell right now.
It was $190 with free shipping, I thought it was a fair price considering what it does. Yeah is pretty frustrating. Especially when you hook something up and expect it to work right away. I don't think it's the scantool, more than likely there is something wrong with that test port.
Check fuse 16 (it is #16 in our 96 Bronco, so ck for right # in your 92) for the cigarette lighter. It is shared with the OBDII connector power in the 96's and is commonly blown" our 96's lighter wiring shorted out @ ashtray support - cut the lead to the lighter and taped it
Iggie that crap I posted;

Check this out while I look for Ryan's pin-out info on the STI and STO
Self Test - Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) NO CODES Troubleshooting
So, in Ryan's Self Test - Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) NO CODES Troubleshooting link he describes the STI etc. tests; and in the Pin-out diagram you can see the the Pins he references
Thanks for suggestions. I'll check that fuse, but I'm almost positive its the test port. I have a replacement one that I'm in the process of wiring in. Take a look at this, I think I'm on the right track, but a couple of the wires don't line up on the new port.

Obviously this is the old test connector, the two wires on the far left go into the same spot.



The red wire coming out goes into two wires in the harness.



Here is the new connector it has two separate wires on the left hand site.



So do the two wires that go into one on the left hand now go to two separate holes in the new connector?

An what about the red wire that has two wires going to it, should I just replace that back in the same location on the new connector? Thanks for the help.
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I can't find the 92's wiring diagrams for the Self test Connectors except for:

Here is the connector diagram by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com


and by Steve83
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That is exactly what I needed. After I had wired the new test connector in the Bronco, it wouldn't start. Turns out I had the two FP ground wires(926) separated and they need to be connected to the same spot for the pump to come on. However, something is still not right, my new connector has four wires on the bottom, the original had four. I'm going to have to go back and double check everything again.

Look at my pic, it looks like the red wire goes in to position B on the old connector which it says is not used. Is that right?
I agree on the red wire into B...
ok; finally found a diagram that shows the proper colors and pin #s.. for a 91 F series but =; by Fireguy again!

1991 F-150 5.0L & 5.8L pg5
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1991 F-150 5.0L & 5.8L pg1
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Ok, I've looked at this 10 different ways and either I have an extra wire coming out of the new connector, or the wire for the check engine light ground should be separated, but I don't think that is the case.

On the new connector, I currently have the red wire from the check engine light ground running into position B, which from the diagram is clearly not supposed to be used. I am going to move it over to position C and see what happens. That means nothing will be connected to the wire coming from position C.

I agree on the red wire into B...
After re-reading that first diagram, clearly both the check engine grounds go into the same hole (C) and the wire that is coming from B is just an extra.. I think I've got it now. Thanks for all of the help.
great! yw, and thanks to Ryan and Steve too!
In my haste to post up, I failed to mention that my approach was to gather all applicable info first, then match it up to your wiring colors, which is diff due to color discoloration throught he years + splices.
great! yw, and thanks to Ryan and Steve too!
In my haste to post up, I failed to mention that my approach was to gather all applicable info first, then match it up to your wiring colors, which is diff due to color discoloration throught he years + splices.
Agreed, those guys have a wealth of info on their sites, sometimes it's just a matter of know where to look. The diagrams probably helped the most. Yeah, the discoloration of the wires made it a little more difficult. I still haven't moved the ground wires for the check engine light, but I'm hoping that will allow the scantool to finally hook up with the EEC.
Well something is not right..I moved the Check Engine Light ground wires from what appeared to be the B position in my old to connector to what I think is the C position where it belongs in my new connector and I'm getting nothing. The scantool isn't even linking with the EEC where before it did. I can't imagine that the new connector I bought would have a spare wire, so the question is where does this other wire go? This is going to drive me nuts..

In the picture for the scantool, other than the self test Input, it looks like the only connections that are needed are F - Data, C - Check Engine Light Ground, and B - which is not used.

Any other suggestions?
Interesting. After researching a bit, it appears that a poor ground might prevent the tool from connecting with the EEC, so I'm going to give this a try and see what happens.

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I grounded it the way it shows in the pic and the CEL light flashed 4 times so maybe there was a problem with the ground..The scantool is still not connecting so I may switch C back to B.
yeah those bad grounds cause havoc; as in headlight/turn signal poor grnds.
Have you been able to isolate each wire & match em up w/the diagrams?
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