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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys- right now I am running the basic RC 6in lift kit on my truck. It has the 6 inch springs in the front w the RA drop brackets and 3in blocks w\add a leafs in the rear. My question is would it be worth the extra money to re-do the whole lift with the ex. RA's and new rear springs? I dont do too much wheeling and my truck is mostly a mall crawler. I have been reading horror stories on here about blocks popping out and axle wrap with the rear blocks. Would it be worth it to just re-do the rear with the proper springs?- (I got a quote of about 450 bucks from a local spring shop to replace the rears)? Sorry for all the questions at once, I am just wondering what your opinions are on what I should do given my truck is currently set up the way it is and is working fine. Thanks in advance guys.:rockon For reference here is a pic of my rig with the current setup:
 

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bfg mud terrains would look badass on there and some classic lock wheels personal opinion but, im going to do all spring lift on my bronco when i lift it. i no i will feel safer with no blocks.
 

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Redneck Romeo
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I've heard extended radius arms will give you a better ride. If you don't wheel much, I honestly don't know if it'd be worth it.

I have had no problems with the rear blocks on my RC 4". I check the torque on my U-bolts every oil change, and I've made reference marks on my blocks and rear axle to make sure they're not trying to "walk" on me. Since the blocks are pinned in such a way that they won't move without the U-bolts coming loose, I'm not worried about mine. I don't think the "blocks popping out" is something that just happens if you maintain your truck properly, but I do understand the need for a little peace of mind.

If your peace of mind is worth $450 to you, don't let anyone here talk you out of it.
 

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Does it work for you? if so dont waste the money, blocks have a bad rep, but very few and I mean very few people have had issues with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah the truck works great with the current setup for what i need, Ive even done some light wheeling with it and never had any issues. I suppose I get too caught up reading other peoples opinions on different setups on the internet, without full knowledge of what they use their respective rigs for. I was thinking about swapping out the current 3" blocks for some 2" ones since the rear seems to sit a tad bit higher than the front, and maybe adding some steps since I damn near split my pants jumping into the thing the other day.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I measured the gap between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender, and the rear has about 2" more gap than the front. If anything I would like the front to sit a bit higher than the rear- so can I simply pull the 3" block completely and just run the leafs? Also right now I have the OEM angle block in there as well which I imagine adds another 1/2" or so. Ive considered getting 1.5" blocks instead of the 3" in there now, but that would still seem to leave the rear a bit higher by my measurement with the angle block in there as well. You can see in the picture that the back is noticeably higher than the front; which i hate. What should I do?
 

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Rest in Peace Friend...
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In my experience, I've found better value from installing the extended radius arms on the front than any other option to the basic lift kit. The short, stock arms with drop brackets want to pull the axle beams back and up under the frame, which affects the caster aspect of your frontend alignment. With factory brackets, the extended arms are mounted 14-15 inches further back on the frame, allowing for a more level radius arm . You get better wheel travel, a bit more control offroad and usally have less problems with alignment. If you plan to keep the current setup with the stock arms, just keep an eye on the quad shocks so one or the other doesn't hit the coil spring. Also, watch for any stress cracks in the axle beam drop brackets or signs of wear on the bushings at the radius arm drop brackets.

In lieu of new rear leafs, or AAL plus a block, I prefer the shackle flip style for rear lift. You can either use the SkY Mfg, kit, or DIY using a rear leaf front hanger at the rear of the stock leaf pack. You can adjust the block height with your current setup to level the "rake" or height difference front to rear. I would say you need to keep the factory angled wedges under whatever spring/ block combo you use, since those usuall keep the rear driveshaft - rear axle pinion yoke angle correct.

Last thing iwould consider is that if the kit is newly installed, you might wait a few moths for it to settle in. As already mentioned, keep a close check on all the hardware and bolt torque, so noithng wokrs loose and causes a big failure.

Before swapping to the F-350 drivetrain in my 84 Bronco, I ran a few years on a Skyjacker Class II 6" lift, with ext. radius arms and lifted rear springs. I drove around for a few months with the stock radius arms and drops while the ext. arms were on backorder. I never could get proper caster for the alignment. The front sat about 2" higher than the rear, and I needed to add a 1" zero rate block in back to level the ride and reduce tire contact with the rear quarters. JSM84
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I really appreciate the advice, I will keep an eye on the quad shocks as the front already looks close to the spring. Any idea where I can find some 1" blocks to fit the Bronco? The smallest I have been able to locate are 1.5" blocks. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I called a local suspension place and they said they could make me some 1" blocks out of pieces of leaf spring- what are your opinions on this?
 

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If they can do that, I'd see if they could make some add-a-leafs for you instead
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ive got add-a-leafs on there now, really Im just trying to fine tune the ride height so it sits perfectly level. It seems as though a 1" block in addition to the add-a-leafs would be perfect.
 

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Rest in Peace Friend...
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I called a local suspension place and they said they could make me some 1" blocks out of pieces of leaf spring- what are your opinions on this?
I really don't like that idea, since they would need to use 2 or 3 springs mated together. Here's a link to a place I was going to order some steel degree shims for the front leaf SAS on my 84 Bronco. They also sell steel and alumnumnum angled blocks and zero-rates:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml

You can prolly find some at 4WheelParts or other online 4WD sites. Your current u-bolts may be too long when you drop the rear two inches, too, depending on how much thread is left on the ends. It's a good policy to use new u-bolts when changing things around, unless your's are still brand new. I bought mine for the rear shacle flip from Stengel Bros. online.

JSM84
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well I decided to just pull the blocks, installed new u bolts. Now running just the AAL. This is how it sits now, Im psyched:
 

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Ford Tatted On My Chest
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IMHO i like it better with the blocks. it makes it sit more level, if you lowered the front of it a bit then it would look pretty sweet also. As for your questions, if you just a mall crawler then leave it how it is. Drop brackets and blocks are fine. but if you offroaded more I would say invest in xtended RA's and complete leaf packs.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
the first picture is a bit deceptive, the back was like a full 2 inches higher than the front. It sat like a dragster, I hated that. Now the back is about 3/4 of an inch lower than the front, which i like the look of (sort of prerunner-esque). Its all a matter of personal taste i suppose. My plan is to add prerunner style front\rear bumpers and take it to Baja to see the 500 and other desert racing events (just to watch of course). I just like the look of trucks that have the front higher than the back, maybe its my Bro-Cal side coming out haha.
 

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Rest in Peace Friend...
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Judging from the last two pics, it does look alot better as far as leveling out the stance or rake. The other pic looks like the rear tires may not have enough clearance with the front of the rear 1/4 panel, but it may just be the angle of the pic, shadow effect, whatever. Before pre-running the Baja 1000 or taking the bronco offroad, I would look for a place where you can flex the suspension, and check for any tire contact front and rear. You may be fine cruising around the mall parking lot, but the first time you hit a rut offroad or turn into an steep driveway, you might here a bad crunching sound as your tire on one side crushes in the lip of the rear 1/4 panel on the passngr side.
 

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if it were me, i'd do a shackle flip in the rear to get some free lift (without blocks).

then in the front, i'd extend the stock rad arms (or have a welding shop do it)... or else get the extended arms and bolt them on if thats you're preference.


then again, i build trucks to work well off-road, so that's where my mind is.... if you're just street driving it, then it probably doesn't matter. but if you ever want to do anything more, i'd get the extended arms in front.

here's some info on the shackle flip and other cheap-o lift tips i did a while back... its a bit redneck and not everybody agrees with my methods but it's been working well for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ur0UOOkj-6Y

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhImQLzUocE

btw, nice looking bronco.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I appreciate all the advice, I was more going for the prerunner look rather than complete function, although I plan on taking the truck out just to be a spectator at some desert races here in the southwest area. Thanks again for the comments!
 

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‘90 EB Full Custom build -Mega Truck Bogger
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Dude your rig is sweet it looks great but i think you should have left the blocks in (liked it better that way) and they will work fine when installed tight and properly.....my beast is up on stacked blocks! personally I dont want the blocks either but I cant knock the way that they have held up to all my abuse...
 
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