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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i've got a 400watt MTX amp and 12" sub.
the problem is that my amp is trickle-draining the battery when the truck is off. i beleive through the remote access wire.

i'm thinking of putting a heavy duty switch on the 8 gauge power wire, between the battery and the amp,..OR...the remote access wire?

is it as simple as just adding a switch anywhere in the cable? or will that blow fuses, or screw with the head unit?
what kind of amperage does the switch need to support? - if its an 8 gauge cable?
 

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Sounds to me that your remote wire on your amp is hook to constant power. It needs to be connected to the remote wire of your radio. Turn your truck off and check to see if the amp is still on. Who did the work on installing this? No need to install switches if this is hooked up right as the power from the radio being on will turn your amp on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
did that...

i installed it myself.
the remote access wire is blue, the only blue one there.
everything is wired correctly.
the light on the amp does go off, when the truck is off.

i've had my amp and sub for a week. every day that week my battery was flat dead.
i disconnected the power wire to the amp.,...and havent had a dead battery since!

this is why i wanna throw in a switch,.. to ENSURE theres no power going to the amp/subs
 

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It still sounds like something isn't wired correctly. Check your work again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i think we need a farad capacitor
a capacitor only caps the wattage/amperage that the amp draws from the battery when its on.

i dont want to cap the power, i want a manual cut off switch so that theres no chance of power going to the amp and subs what so ever. (whether the vehicle is on or not.)

what i want is:
if the switch was off, the amp/sub dont work.
but with the flick of a switch, BOOM! i got bass!

what do you think?:popc1:
 

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This is how I would check it.

1. Turn the truck off then make sure the head unit is not on. If you wired the head unit to a 12v source, that is on when the key is off, the head unit could still be on, and the amp would be on also.

2.Use a multimeter and check the blue wire to see if there is any power. If there is then it is getting power from some other place. At this point you could disconnect the blue wire from the head unit and check for power at the head unit then check for power on the wire that goes to your amp. This wire could be making contact in another location and this check will tell you where to look for the power source.

3.If there is no power on the blue wire then disconnect the power wire supplying power from your battery to your amp. Put your multimeter on dc amps put one lead on your amp where the battery supplies power to and one lead on the power wire from the battery. You should not have any amperage reading. If you do then your switching circuit in your amp is bad and you should take it back to where you bought it.:thumbup
 

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Buster is right. If your getting an amperage draw when the amplifier is turned off then the amp is screwed up and should be removed or returned for another amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i will try this,...

3.If there is no power on the blue wire then disconnect the power wire supplying power from your battery to your amp. Put your multimeter on dc amps put one lead on your amp where the battery supplies power to and one lead on the power wire from the battery. You should not have any amperage reading. If you do then your switching circuit in your amp is bad and you should take it back to where you bought it.:thumbup
thanks BUSTERBRONCO, i'm gonna try this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That's a patch, too, and not ALL head units have a blue remote turn-on wire. Mine is orange, so find a wiring diagram for your particular head unit. Then see how much current the amp is pulling with the key off, and again with its remote turn-on wire disconnected.
thanks but mines blue. and i followed my wiring diagram on my head unit. but good call steve.

A 400W-output amp needs 60~75A at its peak, depending on its internal efficiency, so a power switch would have to be rated for at least that much. I have some that are rated for 100A continuously, and 1000A for 10 sec. If you want one, read this post.
thank you! this information is great.
 

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a capacitor only caps the wattage/amperage that the amp draws from the battery when its on.

i dont want to cap the power, i want a manual cut off switch so that theres no chance of power going to the amp and subs what so ever. (whether the vehicle is on or not.)

what i want is:
if the switch was off, the amp/sub dont work.
but with the flick of a switch, BOOM! i got bass!

what do you think?:popc1:
a capacitor doesn't "cap" wattage/amperage... what it does is act like an instant discharge battery to compensate for the system trying to pull more than your electrical system can provide... once that instant discharge is given up the cap then needs to recharge for the next time it's needed

as the others said it's a pretty band-aid placed over a tumor

instead of a cap go with an optima yellow top, a second battery, or a higher amp alternator or even all 3 if you have a rediculous system (most people who think they need all this really don't)

but thats not your problem, is it... more than likely a wiring issue or a defective piece of equipment...

was the blue wire on your head unit labeled 12+ or remote? or was it labeled power antenna? using the power antenna lead can cause problems (only saw it happen once, but if it happened once, could happen again) with amps not shutting down

you could put a switch on the remote lead with no trouble and if the problem continues you know thats not the problem
 

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you can run your remote wire off of anything in the truck, just use something that is only powered up when the key is in the on possition, but i would recomend putting a switch in, dont worry about blowing fuses, switches are ill for those songs you dont want a whole lot of bass in,
 

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you can run your remote wire off of anything in the truck, just use something that is only powered up when the key is in the on possition, but i would recomend putting a switch in, dont worry about blowing fuses, switches are ill for those songs you dont want a whole lot of bass in,
No, you can't just run your remote wire off anything that has 12v when the key is on.

Ya think people want there amps on if there radio/cd player is off?
 

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It just comes down to doing it right. If your head unit has a remote wire then use it.
 

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:stupid It really does come down to doing it right. However i do have a kill switch on my remote line. heavy metal sounds like ass with a ton of bass so in went the switch so I can kill it on demand and it still turns on and off with the ignition.
 

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Have you tested your battery or alternator? You may have a weak battery or the alternator isn't charging it fully. A bad battery gave me similar symptoms you're experiencing years ago when I had two twleves and a 1200watt amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
problem solved.

thanks for everyones input.

it ends up, i did wire it wrong.

there are 3 Blue wires in the back of my head unit.
1. remote access wire (always hot)
2. antenna motor power
3. amp power-on

i connected it to the remoted access wire. which always kept my amp on, and therefor drained my battery. :toothless

...However i do have a kill switch on my remote line. heavy metal sounds like ass with a ton of bass so in went the switch so I can kill it on demand and it still turns on and off with the ignition.
good to know some one else has done this! thank you. i think i'm gonna throw a switch on there too.
 
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