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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thiis weekend I changed my oil & filter, spark plugs and reset my timing. Bronco is running great etc.

Now my ignition actuator in the steering column has been "fawked" for several months so I'm doing the plier thing driving the rod down into the ignition switch and making sure to lift the shift lever ect. to start and making sure when I shut if off I turn the key enough to turn off the ignition and display and so far so good until I get around to fixing it. OK, make the work comute to the supermarket and then home no biggy, right! Wrong, girlfriend says I'm too close to the bushes could I move the Bronco over a bit. No problem I say, and trying to sart it right up it ground to a halt and wouldn't start, I waited a minute or so and then nothing at all. OK says me maybe I didn't turn everything off today so it may have drained the battery. Less then 30 minutes later the battery is fully recharged (barley two years old and everything under the hood is recently new. I try to start it by using the pliers to move the rod down to the ignition switch and nothing? OK, I'll try the old screw driver on the relay and BANG it starts right up ( I know this is a bit long winded) sorry.

So what is it? starter relay which is just 5 months old (thread "starter freaking out" or ignition switch. Any input would be appreciated, I can get to work I guess ok, I don't know how old the ignition switch is on the column. I have gone out and tried it a couple of times with the screw driver which I don't really like doing but it fired every time.

Let me know tonite just so I know what to deal with going to work tomorrow.

Thanks!


:enforce Sometimes I'd like to shoot the Bronco!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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What do you mean by "nothing". Does the truck's accessories turn ON when you push the rod down?

Maybe the switch is either bad, or out of alignment, or the neutral safety switch is bad, if you have an auto tranny (put it in your info).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry, everything comes on display, radio etc. and had the AOD auto trannny rebuilt 1 1/2 ago but good point. I still have to push up the shifter before starting some times too. When I drove the rod down nothing happened starting, that's why I went to the screw driver. After dinner I was thinking the same thing that maybe the ignition switch has either moved out of position or died. If I touch the starter relay it fires right up so I'll look under the dash at the switch when I get home from work, I've just decided to replace all these little things and bring the Bronco up to a good level and the ignition switch was on the list. Of course it wouldn't hurt to fix the actuator but it's a PITA and I have a few other priorities, like brake calipers & rotors and my window motors and wirng issue so I can have some fresh air this summer. I mean the battery came right back up in less then 30 minutes of charging. Lets see what tomorroqw brings!

Anything else you might think of and I'll check again in the morning ~

Thanks for the quick reply Brother!
 

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#2. Put a test light/voltmeter on the small wire going to the relay. See if you get 12V to it when the actuator rod is pushed to START like you've been doing.


???


The reverse lights are operated by the NSS, so the fact that they work properly is good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK I'll look into it, sorry about the blah blah mouth. I'll call the guy that rebuilt my tranny and see if he replaced the neutral safety switch or not.
New starter, alternator, FRP, Fuel Filter. IAC, heater hoses, radiator, relay starter, battery cables, spark plugs.

I'm not sure what wires need to be fixed everything in that dept is ok over by the starter relay? As for the shifter it's not cronic but every once in a while I need to push it up and then it starts fine but I don't know how old the neutral switch would be if it wasn't replaced when the tranny was done so it wouldn't hurt to replace it. I assuming it's a simple job like disconnect, unscrew and take out, replace reconnect kind of thing?

No problem getting to work but I'll see how I wind up when I get home.

Thanks for the response and info Brother!


:enforce
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
kf4amu: Spoke to my tranny guy and he said if the N/S was working he probably didn't change it so I'll get that done it's only $32.99. I'm assuming with the NS the shifter will be in the correct position now?

I'll let you know when I' finished.

Thanks


:enforce
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Anybody got a picture of the NSS on the tranny so I can see what it looks like ahead of time before I jump in and swap it?

Thanks


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The jiggling of the handle is a classic symptom of a NSS wearing out :)

And generally they do not get replaced during rebuilds. Its obvious where its located when you look on the drivers side of your truck. You'll see everything like in my picture except the threads and the copper plunger. The fat part you put the wrench on, and the plug are all visible, and very obvious. Its the only place a harness plugs into the tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just called Auto Zone and they have one for $31.99 so I'll pick one up and I might as well change the ignition switch on the column for $9.99 a few less items on the do to list completed. I'm not looking forward to doing the actuator and puling the steering wheel but it's a PITA using pliers so I'll have to plan the time. Thanks for the help and suggestions, I'll let you know how it turns out, try to get it done this weekend.


Thanks Brother ~


:enforce :enforce :enforce :enforce :enforce I'd still like to shoot the Bronco!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK Holly Horrors NSS Batman!! So I'm putting in the new NSS by hand and I go to line it up so the electrical connector won't interfere with the shifter and BANG one easy turn and the thread shaft broke inside the trannny case! Now I'm thinking wow gonna have to drop the T fluid and pan and go from the inside to undo this sucker, what all day maybe??? I searched in toolbox and found my trusty dental pick, got back under the truck and closed my eyes and low & behold with a few curse words & prayers I managed to twirl it back out. I couldn't believe it but there it was.

Managed to get another one and in like a dream hand tight only but I discovered you have to put the shifter in neutral in order to get the switch to thread back in, I just guessd because there is nothing in the Haynes that mentions it. WOW $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ SAFE!

Thanks!



:enforce :enforce :enforce
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Since these two are related I'll add this if it's ok.

NSS in now no problem and I also replaced the ignition swith because I'm doing the plier thing driving the rod down to start, the other day it stopped working that way. So now I have the ignition switch in (dropped the column a bit) put it all back together and it's still doing the same thing, I have to use a screw driver on the starter relay. Tomorrow I will just replace the relay even though it's only 5 months, it might have fried the other day when I came home stopped and started, it didn't want to fire up and ran the battery down a bit. Also I have to make sure the shifter is really up in the park position because the reverse lights were still on. So I have to make sure I turn the key enough to shut off ignition and display.
Any fine points or adjustments welcome, this is the first time I've done these items but they weren't too bad.

Let me know!

Thanks



:enforce If I can't fix it, I'll just shoot it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
For some reason the reverse lights have resolved themselves and don't stay on so that's a good start. I bought a Borg Warner starter relay today and I will put that in and see if I can get back to using pliers instead of the screwdriver, sure got some nice divets on the driver. The Haynes dosen't give an indication on how to put the ignition switch in, such as alignment so I just matched it up with the rod in the off position and everything comes on, display, fuel pumps etc.
If this dosen't reslove part of the problem, least I pull the wheel for the actuator what could the problem be? Any fuses linked to this?

I'm also going ground a wire to the frame as well, every little bit helps I guess. If anybody thinks of anything let me know ~

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, Just put in the new starter relay and used the pliers to drive the rod down and no start. Display, fuel pumps etc come on, So what is it? Is the actuator screwing this up or any fuses tied to this. The starter is 5 months old as was the the starter relay. Is there anything in the alignment of the igniton switch on the column I'm missing. I can lay the screw driver on the starter relay and it will fire up no problem.

It's a 100 degrees here today so I'll wait to do any more looking so if anybody has any thoughts I would appreciate it, in the mean time I'll defer to the Hanyes book.

Thanks ~
 

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Did you check the trigger wire at the starter relay for +12V?

P.S. you can short the battery side of the starter relay to the small post the red/blue wire is connected to. This activates the relay without all the sparks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No didn't check for volts, thought I heard a faint click when driving the rod down but I don't have meter yet so add that to the list so I will have to go back and check the alignment. I tried to set it up the way it was but you know how that can go, close but no cigar. The Haynes doesn't give much but it mentions "pin and slot aligment in the lock/column and to make sure both are in the "Run" position. So back to the drawing board, it makes it hard when the actuator is "fawked" but I'll figure it out. Definatley going to have to pull the wheel and fix actuator. I'll look at the old switch to get a better sense, I was rushing to get it done and hadn't done either before, no biggy. It's reachable if you drop the column!

I did manage to clean my hamonic balancer and set my timing correctly to 10 degrees and drove it up a steep hill and finally no more knocking & rocking.

Thanks for the response, learn a little bit more each day!

I'll let you know how I make out ~
 

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well you turn the key to RUN and adjust the ignition switch so it too is in RUN.

Check the wiring diagrams for the starter circuit wire...its red/blue, get a multimeter and back track until you find the problem, assuming you are not getting 12V at the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Will do Brother! So I'm assuming by "Run" that means drive the rod forward before you plunge to start/crank? I had it in off and disconnected the battery until I got it in. Sears has mulitmeters for $20.00 can't hurt to have one now.

Thanks for the Help, will do over the weekend!


:enforce OK maybe I won't shoot it just yet!
 

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Yea you definitely need a multimeter. The cheapies will work just fine.

RUN...the position the switch springs BACK to when you let go from pushing it to START, all the accessories are on, the fuel pumps prime, the engine runs...etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I can drive the rod down until the accessories are on or drive it further like you said with the spring back but it's going to be hard to do both push and align the switch? or just until things come on?
I'll try and get a multimeter this weekend and fiddle with it. I'll keep you posted ~

Thanks Brother!


:enforce Myabe I'll wait a bit and shoot it later!
 
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