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Discussion Starter #1
So i did some searching on the site and couldn't find exactly the same symptoms that i'm having in any thread i looked at. The truck is running fine, no overheating or anything like that. When i put the heat on full blast is when everything goes to hell. It starts leaking from the sides of the radiator, and from what i've been told and what i assume is, its' because the pressure is too much and a seal is probably broken. I plan on replacing the radiator just because it'd probably be easier then trying to replace the seals on the side tanks.

Does this sound good, or am i over thinking?
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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just replace it..radiators are cheap...you've probably developed cracks in the plastic side tanks..common problem.
 

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:stupid
My factory radiator had a tank crack out of the blue about a year ago.
 

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I'm with everyone else on this. Also a good time to check your hoses and water pump, do a quick underhood inspection. If you are going to be in there and pulling things apart, might as well tackle as many projects as you can at once.
 

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yo MATT,
As the guys advised on Plastic Side Seams;

also;

This is by Ford; 96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)
Same as 95 and most earlier years exc. for OBD II, 4WABS (93-96) ABS 87-92), Air Bag (94-96) and a few other items


Section 03-03: Engine Cooling
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Symptom Chart — Engine Cooling
ENGINE COOLING

Condition
Possible Source
Action
•Loss of Coolant
•Damaged radiator.
•Damaged water pump.
•Loose/damaged radiator hoses.
•Loose/damaged heater water hoses.
•Damaged heater core.
•Damaged engine gaskets.
•Damaged radiator coolant recovery reservoir.
•Internal engine coolant leak.
•GO to Pinpoint Test A.

•Engine Overheats
•Damaged water thermostat.
•Damaged water pump.
•Cooling fan inoperative.
•Plugged radiator.
•GO to Pinpoint Test B.


Visual Inspection
1.Check for leaks at:
a. All hoses and hose connections.
b. Radiator seams, radiator core, and radiator drain petcock. plastic side seams usually leak during eng cool-down
c. block core plugs and drain plugs.
d. Edges of all other cooling system gaskets.
e. Transmission oil cooler.
f. heating system components. heater core on passenger side behind glove box & hoses
g. Water pump. weep hole at bottom of pump
h. Radiator and coolant recovery bottle caps.
I. Coolant recovery bottle.

2.Examine oil dipstick for evidence of engine oil contaminated with coolant — a brownish-milky appearance.
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Cooling System Pressure Test;
http://www.aa1car.com/library/coolant_leaks.htm
You get a Cooling System Pressurization Kit w/refundable deposit at local parts store.

you can't get a helper to go through all we provided,can you have the cooling sys pressure checked?
Cooling System Seasonal, Service Labor Times
Includes: Pressure test system, inspect hoses and tighten all connections, drain radiator and engine block, flush system, refill system with proper coolant mix.
Total Labor Time for above should be around 1 hour; Multiply your garage/shop hourly rate by the Time to get an estimate on the cost.

So a shop should be able to do the pressure test in 1/2 hour times labor rate.

Call local shops for estimates. Ask for shop recommendations from family & friends.

Local shops here usually absorb the pressure test if they get the repair/replace job for the radiator, or water pump, etc.

Plastic End Cap Leak Repair in a 96; " For around $35 they replaced the seals between the aluminum rad and plastic end tanks. I thought about doing it myself, but the crimps all have to be the same tightness or it'll leak again. With their jig/tools they had it done in less than 30 minutes. The rad will last you another 10 years or so. If all else fails, buy one from radiators.com for around $120 shipped..."
Source: by Blue'87GT



Plastic End Cap Leak Repair; "Leaks in plastic end tanks can be filled with epoxy, covered with fiberglass and epoxy, or hot-air welded using nylon plastic filler rod. Welding plastic takes some skill and requires careful surface preparation to get good adhesion. The leak must first be "V" ground and sanded, then cleaned with wax and grease remover to assure a strong bond. The other alternative is to simply replace the damaged end tank. But the job is harder than it looks because the end tank must be pressed down on the core with about 150 lbs. of pressure while the header tabs are clamped in place. Radiator shops have the proper fixtures for doing this, but many underhood repair shops probably don't. Radiators with plastic end tanks are very vulnerable to steam erosion. If the coolant level is low and the engine starts to run hot, steam can erode and melt a hole right through an end tank. White deposits on the inside of the plastic is evidence that hot steam rather than coolant was flowing into the tank. If you find this kind of damage, check the thermostat and pressure test the system for leaks after the radiator has been repaired or replaced..."
Source: by Larry C at arrowheadradiator.com
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Our 96, bought New original rad w/plastic side seams lasted about 60K miles; 2nd leaked there again later and in 2012, 3rd rad leaked at side seam.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, thanks for the info everybody. The only time the radiator leaks is when the heat is on full blast, when i turn it off it doesn't leak at all. So i was looking at Radiators from JC Whitney, they seem to be reasonably priced. Radiators.com didn't seem to work for me. Anyone got any other suggestions as far as other sites to look at?
 

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check out amazon. Not sure if its a great deal but mine was $90 shipped. It seems to be the same quality as stock and I had no issues with it.
 

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Ok, thanks for the info everybody. The only time the radiator leaks is when the heat is on full blast, when i turn it off it doesn't leak at all. So i was looking at Radiators from JC Whitney, they seem to be reasonably priced. Radiators.com didn't seem to work for me. Anyone got any other suggestions as far as other sites to look at?
I ordered my radiator from Rockauto. Wanna say it was around $120, which is what I paid for a puny accord radiator from a local parts store (needed it quick). It was the same brand as what many parts stores carry but cheaper. I was happy with the quality.
My truck came stock with a 2 row heavy duty radiator so I got another 2 row to replace it. Even on the hottest days here in Florida towing a trailer I've never had it get hot unless you cut the airflow completely (no radiator fan in traffic) or run low on coolant.

Honestly unless the shroud wont fit I'd get a 2 row radiator regardless. I saw a single row radiator in the junkyard and it was puny.
 
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