[ChromaticV8]

So when I bought my bronco the driver's side radius rod had practically no bushing left. I wanted to go the easy way and just drop the bracket so I didn't have to take the shock and spring and everything else off. The nut on the end of the rod will not come off for me no matter what I do. I've broken two ratchets trying to get that thing off now.

I ended up getting the washer free from the rust, but the nut is too stubborn. Are the threads the other way?

Does anyone have some good tips for stubborn nuts? I've used a propane torch on it and pb blaster, which got the washer freed, but the nut has not moved at all. I know the rod doesn't look great at all but I can't imagine replacing it is any easier with all the rust.

 

[BigBlue 94]

I get them loose in the junkyards with a 20" breaker bar/ ratchet and a big wrench used as a cheater bar on the ratchet handle. So about 40" of leverage.

No, those are regular right hand threads.

An impact wrench likely wont budge it, but might help break some of the rust. Use it in both forward and reverse.

Also, that radius arm bracket is a replacement. The tag with E1TZ tells me that. Z means service part.

 

[NickOille]

1 1/8” end wrench, and then use a floor jack under the wrench to pick up and turn it.
Or use more heat, or get a grinder in there and cut a slit in the nut. Then you will need a new nut though.
Can you see what the “shaft” part of the radius arm looks like? Depending on how long it was driven with a bad/missing bushing, that could be worn down and weakened. That wouldn’t change getting the nut off, but it could make the whole arm junk if it’s worn down too much

 

[miesk5]

Yo ChromaticV8,
As so well advised!

 

[paul rondelli]

Just finished this on my Bronco. Crazy that none of air impact metric sockets would fit the nut …. had to go buy a 1 1/8 socket.

Cheater bar time ….. my hollow handle on the floor jack works well. At least it is in good spot. You can get a 6 or 7 foot long cheater bar on that sucker.

 

[sackman9975]

I see a broken radius arm in the future when that nut comes off, if it even does.

Propane not hot enough. MAPP gas or a real torch is your best bet.

Be careful using the floor jack method listed above. With the bushing completely gone, you'll surely snap that arm.

 

[ChromaticV8]

thanks guys,
Bought a bigger breaker bar today and was able to get it off finally. Much easier said than done, started almost a week ago.
The shaft part of it didn’t look too bad but I’m definitely thinking of replacing it. The right side arm and bushing looks new so I’m not going to mess with that one, however the new bushing I got from autozone for the left side looks a little different. It’s a little bigger and much harder material. Will this make a difference?

 

[BigBlue 94]

The bushings will vary in shape, material, etc between brands. As long as it has two halves and fits properly, you'll be good to go.

 

[TravisITGuy]

i would get a new radius arm and just cut that off. it looks very rusted, probably just going to snap anyway

 

[ChromaticV8]

If you don’t mind me asking, where did you get your replacement bushing? One I bought from autozone did not fit...

 

[BigBlue 94]

I used energy suspension urethane bushings.

 

[Want2BS8ed]

I used energy suspension urethane bushings.

Same, and I'll add if you happen to call Energy Suspension; on the second ring a human (located here in the US) will answer the telephone. They will transfer you to their technical department, where again on the second ring a human will answer the phone. That person not only knows their product, but intimately knows the suspension under your truck... without having to look anything up on a computer or rummage through service manual.

Great product and outstanding customer service.

Late to the party (as usual) but it sounds like you found the right tools - breaker bar and a pipe.

Couple hints for the future. PB Blaster is OK. There are better products available though like Aerokroil (plus it smells better), but the best is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Lot cheaper as well.

Also when you know you are going to be hitting something this rusty, start a few days ahead soaking it down a couple of times a day. It's surprising how much easier it can be if you give the penetrating oil time to work.

 

[BigBlue 94]

Same, and I'll add if you happen to call Energy Suspension; on the second ring a human (located here in the US) will answer the telephone. They will transfer you to their technical department, where again on the second ring a human will answer the phone. That person not only knows their product, but intimately knows the suspension under your truck... without having to look anything up on a computer or rummage through service manual.

Great product and outstanding customer service.

Late to the party (as usual) but it sounds like you found the right tools - breaker bar and a pipe.

Couple hints for the future. PB Blaster is OK. There are better products available though like Aerokroil (plus it smells better), but the best is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Lot cheaper as well.

Also when you know you are going to be hitting something this rusty, start a few days ahead soaking it down a couple of times a day. It's surprising how much easier it can be if you give the penetrating oil time to work.

Kano Kroil is some amazing stuff. I use it in liquid form because it doesnt have the waste of the aerosol. Anything Kroil is expensive compared to WD40. A gallon is close to 100 bucks. But it works on rust and on guns.

ATF and acetone is definitely the best creeping rust penetrant. But EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE. Be very careful with it.