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Never done it, going to help a friend.
It's a 1995, Driver side, may do the passenger side too. The bushings at the rear of the arm.

Can I just remove the nut, pull the axle forward and r&r the bushing?
Should we do one side at a time, or both sides at once?
Size of the nut? My friend does not have a lot of tools and I would like to take the right size socket.

Any tips from those who have done this. Other tools required. Yes I searched!
 

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I have read of guys using a come-along to pull the axle forward. I just read a tech article where the guy cut off the rivets on the brackets and used grade 8 bolts to put them back on. I would not be real comfortable using a come-along like that, so when I replace mine (on my list), I'm going to cut the rivets off and bolt them back on (using Loc-tite).
 

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Gamble Til We Die
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cut the rivets off and replace them with grade 8 bolts and lock nuts. that way if you ever need to replace them again, itll be a lot easier. i wouldnt mess around with pulling the axle forward. also, crawl underneath your truck look to see if you got lucky and had factory bolts holding them on. on my 93 bronco the drivers side was riveted and the pass side was bolted. not sure what size the nut is without crawling underneath it, so maybe u should just take the time to do it.
 

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Are those REAL?!?!
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I think I'll keep this short and sweet... buy the grade 8's, cut the rivets, and hope some schmuck didn't use RED LOCTITE on the arm nuts...
 

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Zebrafive said:
Never done it, going to help a friend.
It's a 1995, Driver side, may do the passenger side too. The bushings at the rear of the arm.

Can I just remove the nut, pull the axle forward and r&r the bushing?
Should we do one side at a time, or both sides at once?
Size of the nut? My friend does not have a lot of tools and I would like to take the right size socket.

Any tips from those who have done this. Other tools required. Yes I searched!
Give up on the come-along trick, it won't work unless you have way too much play in your front end. You will probably end up breaking something. Just cut the rivets off and replace them with 1 1/2" x 7/16" bolts. I like to use a flat washer on both sides of the frame and a lock washer aginst the nut. A little dab of locktite won't hurt things either. Do both sides (driver and pass.) at the same time, if one is cracked then both are probably hurting. To get the rivets out you have a few choices, if you are lucky then use a plasma cutter or cutting torch. If not then do what the rest of us do and use a drill (very slow), or a die grinder or right angle grinder and burn the heads off. If you grind the heads you will need to drill a 1/4" hole in what remains of the rivet then you can put a punch on it and drive it out. The reason for this is the rivet "grows" inside the holes when they are installed and will be much easier to remove if you releave some of the material. You should also check the pivot bushings on each arm while you are down there working on it.

Tools needed:
1, device to drill/grind/cut the 6 or so rivets you will encounter (Two of them on the passenger side should allready be bolts.)
2, Hammer and punch
3, 1 1/8" socket (1/2 drive or like me 3/4" drive)
4, 8 grade 8 replacement bolts, 7/16" diameter x 1 1/2" long.
5, 16 flat washers, 8 lock washers and 8 7/16" nuts, all grade 8
6, small bottle of locktite.

dc
 
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My opinion differs! I did both my old 84 and my 90 by myself with a come along, Easy! Don't forget the white plastic thing-a-ma-what-you-call-ems. I used a heavy ratchet strap to align them side to side to get them back in the bracket holes and a bottle jack for up and down. Either way will work. If you aint got no extended arms maybe the grind, cut, bolt thing would be cool so you could move the brackets in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the replies. A torch is available so I'll use it (if it was not I would try the come-a-long). I am taking my 3/4 drive ratchet and 1 1/8 socket. So far my friend has only bought the one bushing set, I'll try and talk him into doing the otherside too. Going to do this, this weekend.
 

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I did this. pulled the brackets off instead of moving the axle forward. Just make sure to get the truck properly aligned asap after completion. I kept both tires on for this. Had to move around a tire to reseat the arm but overall not too difficult.
 

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I know this is an old thread, but how hard is it to get rid of the rivots? I'm a little nervous to start this. I have a drill, angle grinder and an impact hammer available. No torch or plasma cutter. Thoughts or suggestions?
 

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With a grinder and a pneumatic hammer it won't be that difficult at all.
 

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Here's 2 more discussions regarding this, the 2 nuts/bolts on the RA bracket are 18mm and a real PITA to get at on the inside frame due to the forward fuel pump being right in the way and there's a fuel line there to boot so becarefull.

I've been dragging my feet getting to this project, bought 2 - 19 mm sockets, deep and short, new Red Energey Suspenion RA bushings planning on reusing the original hardware as the kit doesn't offer that....my TRE dust cover boots, sway bar and end links bushings are all Red ES.

My issue is my blood disorder doesn't leave me with a lot a strength/energy and I couldn't budge the 19mm RA bracket nut/bolt or the RA bushing end bolt but suggestions in the posts/links may help. I'm deciding whether to came back and try it again maybe doing the "rivets" first using a disc grinder, chisel and drill but I need to replace my ball joints so I may just consider having some shop do the whole project for me and be done.....IDK.....though not cheap $$$$$ I'm sure but it's an involved job not quite straight forward, especially trying to reach up swinging a 4lb BFH off the floor....PITA........lol lol

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=212250
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11521

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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If you don't have pneumatic tools, considering your condition, now would be a good time to invest in them. At the least pick up a HF corded electric impact. $100 HF Air Compressor (8 gallon model) and an Earthquake 1/2" impact. With a few decent hoses and fittings, you could do it all for less than $200.

I just replaced my driver's side RA bushing and it took me all of 30 minutes...most of that was finding what sockets I needed and dragging my floor jack out to the driveway to help align the RA and RA bracket for re-installation. I had previously replaced all the rivets with grade 8 hardware several years ago.


Finally used Energy Suspension bushings this time. I've used Ford OE rubber the last two replacements and both of them ended up oozing rubber out.
 

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Did this today.
custom made 3 inch suspension lift.





Well after some grinding and. Shaping I managed to get them looking good.
 

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Looks like the RA arm bushing Gods have smiled on me, yesterday my buddy from the Sunday Trap Club said I could come over today and use his air compressor and impact gun, so the bolts should just come off in no time and then I'll work with the grinder on the rivets and get those off then figure how to get that big bolt off the RA arm end and replace the bushings......going down in about an hour to so it....yeahhhhhhh!


Thanks ~ :thumbup
 
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