what he said. and don't be intimidated because the rivets are pretty soft steel. i drilled one and used a cold chisel to pop the head off, took about 7 minutes per rivet. it is super easy.Streetgang said:Grinding off the rivets from the rad arm bracket/frame connection is by far the most popular method to get the job done.
If you need help in step by step form just use the search.....I think there was a write up on this with good pics and everything.
In any case the driver side bracket already uses nuts and bolts, but the pass side uses rivets to hold the bracket on. You will need to grind/cut/chop/hammer those rivets out, and then replace them with all grade eight bolts/nuts.
guess i got lucky, i was able to just use the jackstand to position everything. i put inner radius arm bushing on then the bracket then worked it into place with a little prybar. reattatched the bracket to the truck, put on the outer bushing and nut. easy as pie. and i second the poly bushings. be sure to reuse the heatshield on the passenger side.SigEpBlue said:I'll have to second the Über-easy comments. Doing the driver's side by itself only became difficult when trying to reinstall the nut; I ended up using a come-along to pull the axle back into position so there were enough threads exposed to start it. Why Ford couldn't have made the stud on the end of the radius arms another half-inch longer, we'll never know. LoL. Just make sure you use Grade 8 hardware when reinstalling everything!!!
If I had to suggest anything, it'd be to use urethane bushings instead of rubber. Either way, you'll feel like you're driving a new truck afterwards. Oh, and remember it's 80-120 lb-ft of torque when installing that rear nut.