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Re-wire your Tailgate window switch (FINISHED)

102962 Views 67 Replies 30 Participants Last post by  Chefdeano
First look at the original wiring here:

This wires the switches so they both work without the key in the ingition.
It also takes the load off the dash switch. Now the dash switch only suplys 1/8 amp for a relay
For this to work well you need a GOOD ground near the relays.
You need to route a 10gauge or larger wire to the relays in the back.
I mounted my new relays in the back inner quarter panel above the wheel arch.
I recomend replacing the power wire for the tailgate switch; wire it to the same circuit as the relays.
Ok you're responsible for getting a Battery HOT wire threw the firewall. I'm anal about wires and fuses so any help from me will be very complicated for this simple electrical work. It needs to be BIG.

From that Battery HOT run a 18 gauge wire to the Lite Blue / Black wire on the dash switch. This will make the switch work without the key.

Also cut the Pink/Green and Pink/Blue wires. Splice 18 gauge wires to the switch and route them to the drivers kick panel.

Run a 10 Gauge or larger wire from Battery HOT to the drivers kick panel with the 2 18Ga wires from the switch.

Remove the Door sill cover and route all 3 wires along the drivers rocker panel past the seat belt tensoner trim panel and up to the drivers inner quarter panel above the wheel arch.

Drill a hole threw the inner quater panel and route 3 10ga wires down to below the drivers tail light. I prefer a Red wire Blue Wire and Green Wire. But if you get all Purple wire, I don't care, just keep them from getting mixed up!

Behind the Drivers tail light are the tailgate plugs. I recomend removing any questionable wiring, but your wiring skill may stop that from hapening.
Splice the Red 10Ga wire to the Black/White wire
Splice the Blue 10Ga wire to the Pink/Blue wire
Splice the Green 10Ga wire to the Pink/Green wire

Now at the inner quarter panel mount 2 relays. try to sand down the metal at one of the screw holes as you will use that for a new ground. This Ground has to be GOOD!

Wire up the relays as the diagram above shows. When you splice all the power wires togeather make sure it's not a half ass job. Same for the grounds. The better your power and ground the faster the window will move and the less it will bind up under load.
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If you wouldnt mind snapping a few pics, Id appreciate it.

I posted last week or the week before looking for the link to the write up on this.
Ill do it for the 81-83 wiring people.... but I dont have power windows so its easier I guess.
Fireguy50 said:
Anyway the idea is t ocut the TG window switchs from the original fuse box, tie them together with a 10G wire and re-wire it so both switches are fuesd together off the battery.
so what i'll have to do is cut those 2 wires, tie them together, and then run them to a fuse that is constantly on?
ok, for the 78-9 People, for us, it is quite easy, under the dash behind the instrument cluster, there is a relay, that relay is to run the main constant power for the rear window when the key is on, so to allow the window to be working 24/7 without the key, take the Black/Green wire coming from there and find a constant hot wire in the fuse box, problem solved :D
Bump for Fireguys easy writeup...:shrug
yo Ryan,
I have Chris's wiring schematic Link in my Bronco site under "Tailgate"; it shows the 12 & 14 wiring colors, etc.'

Also the off-road schematic and RFR's article w/schematic
Hope this helps.
Thaks but I need pictures of the back of the fuse box.
I have one in my garage I use for research and stuff.

Sorry guys I've been REAL BUSY!
If your ever read or seen Bronco Driver Magazine....
I have 8 pages to fill at font 9.5 :shocked
Was suposed to be submited yesterday, but I'm late.

I'm late :confused: Maybe I'm pregnant :shrug
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:histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica

Now, that is some funny schinizt there Ryan :D
Fireguy50 said:
If your ever read or seen Bronco Driver Magazine....

<yawn> BTDT ;)

Where is the writeup? We are waiting...And whos more important...Us or Bronco Driver?!?!?
EDIT: Image removed for dial up users

now I capice what you are up to; sorry 'bout that dude...
Another approach by KL

Constant Power for the tailgate window by cb From: Keith Lawyer
Sweet diagram FireGuy. Maybe now I can figure out why my rear defrost is so fritzy. Also looks like just splicing the wire feeding fuse 12 to feed 14 also will be what I'll do. :beer
Hey Fireguy, is it possible that my motor will be a touch more powerfull this setup, since it's not sharing power so to speak???:shrug
only if you are in the habit of using your door window motors and your tailgate at the same time....
YES it will make it faster. Better power and grounds always speed up electric motors. :D
I might actually do this tonight. I finished my Bronco Driver article Tuesday night / Wensday morning at 3AM, and went out to Detriot for some fun and play time.
I finished it, hope your all happy :banghead :thumbup

Um, if the wires behind the drivers tail light or inside the tailgate are crapy, you'll have more work to do. I'll see if I can get some directions on redoing all those wires too. :toothless :brownbag
Great write up!!! I think I might have to do this soon.
Superford lost my picture So I redid it, whith better colors, and re-posted it. :)
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