[Fireguy50]

First look at the original wiring here:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9397

NOTES
This wires the switches so they both work without the key in the ingition.
It also takes the load off the dash switch. Now the dash switch only suplys 1/8 amp for a relay
For this to work well you need a GOOD ground near the relays.
You need to route a 10gauge or larger wire to the relays in the back.
I mounted my new relays in the back inner quarter panel above the wheel arch.
I recomend replacing the power wire for the tailgate switch; wire it to the same circuit as the relays.
Ok you're responsible for getting a Battery HOT wire threw the firewall. I'm anal about wires and fuses so any help from me will be very complicated for this simple electrical work. It needs to be BIG.

INTRUCTIONS
From that Battery HOT run a 18 gauge wire to the Lite Blue / Black wire on the dash switch. This will make the switch work without the key.

Also cut the Pink/Green and Pink/Blue wires. Splice 18 gauge wires to the switch and route them to the drivers kick panel.

Run a 10 Gauge or larger wire from Battery HOT to the drivers kick panel with the 2 18Ga wires from the switch.

Remove the Door sill cover and route all 3 wires along the drivers rocker panel past the seat belt tensoner trim panel and up to the drivers inner quarter panel above the wheel arch.

Drill a hole threw the inner quater panel and route 3 10ga wires down to below the drivers tail light. I prefer a Red wire Blue Wire and Green Wire. But if you get all Purple wire, I don't care, just keep them from getting mixed up!

Behind the Drivers tail light are the tailgate plugs. I recomend removing any questionable wiring, but your wiring skill may stop that from hapening.
Splice the Red 10Ga wire to the Black/White wire
Splice the Blue 10Ga wire to the Pink/Blue wire
Splice the Green 10Ga wire to the Pink/Green wire

Now at the inner quarter panel mount 2 relays. try to sand down the metal at one of the screw holes as you will use that for a new ground. This Ground has to be GOOD!

Wire up the relays as the diagram above shows. When you splice all the power wires togeather make sure it's not a half ass job. Same for the grounds. The better your power and ground the faster the window will move and the less it will bind up under load.

 

[Fireguy50]

Thaks but I need pictures of the back of the fuse box.
I have one in my garage I use for research and stuff.

Sorry guys I've been REAL BUSY!
If your ever read or seen Bronco Driver Magazine....
I have 8 pages to fill at font 9.5 :shocked
Was suposed to be submited yesterday, but I'm late.












I'm late Maybe I'm pregnant :shrug
:lolup

 

[Fireguy50]

EDIT: Image removed for dial up users

 

[Fireguy50]

YES it will make it faster. Better power and grounds always speed up electric motors.
I might actually do this tonight. I finished my Bronco Driver article Tuesday night / Wensday morning at 3AM, and went out to Detriot for some fun and play time.

 

[Fireguy50]

I finished it, hope your all happy :banghead :thumbup

Um, if the wires behind the drivers tail light or inside the tailgate are crapy, you'll have more work to do. I'll see if I can get some directions on redoing all those wires too. :toothless :brownbag

 

[Fireguy50]

Superford lost my picture So I redid it, whith better colors, and re-posted it.

 

[Fireguy50]

I'm too much of a rebel for fuses

 

[Fireguy50]

You need to add some fuses :twak to your diagram before it catches fire, FireGuy! :beer

I fixed it okay

After looking at it for a minute, all you're doing is replacing the dash switch with 2 relays, which I assume you're putting inside the tailgate. The t/g switch operates as it normally does, but it grounds thru the relays instead of thru the dash switch. It seems like a long way to go to get the same result as changing the dash switch power supply to an always-on fuse... :shrug

Um kinda, but no. I mounted my relays on the inner quarter panel with my alarm:

When I did it, The fuse panel (top right in the picture) is powered by a 2Ga cable (which also powers my stereo)

So the end result brought more power to the relays. Larger cable = less resistance
Brought the ground closer to the tailgate window motor. Closer ground = less resistance
And the dash switch doesn't take the load anymore and will last longer.

I wouldn't recomend mounting the relays inside the tailgate.

 

[Fireguy50]

Sorry bout the bent frame, that sucks.

I have no faulty wiring. I redid everything in weatherpack connectors. I'll get pictures tomorrow. I gained a lot in the re-wire.
Go read the tech under the picture :goodfinge
I ran the dash switch wires inside the vehicle now, wo there aren't any extra connetors like you think.

 

[Fireguy50]

My newest LMC cataloge lists different part numbers for the 78-79 vs 80-up when it comes to tailgate glass and weatherstrip in the top.
but that doesn't mean anything, I've swaped stuff on my truck when others told me it wouldn't work
To answer this you really need a friend with a 80-up to park next to yours and start making measurements / templetes / ect

 

[Fireguy50]

:toothless :wacko

 

[Fireguy50]

Here are the original connectors behind the taillight. Sorce of many problems for all Bronco owners:

Here are my new Weatherpack connectors:

yes you see 6 wires:
window up / window down / key switch power / defrost power / defrost ground / and my 6th wire is for a future 3rd brake light

Here are the connectors agian, with the new ground.

There is now a 10ga ground behind each tail light. Drivers side ground is for the drivers brake, tail, back up light, and defroster. Passanger groudn is for the passanger brake, tail, back up, and plate lights. MAde everything brighter

Here you see the wiring at the drivers frame rail:

Weatherpack connectors again. Only connectors here are for the tail lights. Tailgate wiring has been removed.

Here you see the drivers side wiring behind the gas filler:

Tail-light wiring comes over from the frame rail like normal. Tailgate wiring drops down from the inner quarter pannel from my new relays. Like I talked about in the begining of this post.

Here is wiring at the passanger frame rail:

Only difference is that ground for the licence plate lights is suplied from behind the taillight above.



SEE NO FAULTY WIRING HERE

 

[Fireguy50]

:cry love you to steve :cry
Jerk :cry

 

[Fireguy50]

You've introduced SEVERAL more connections to corrode/loosen/add resistance to the circuit. And all for a fraction-of-a-second increase the motor speed? Still seems like a LOT of work & expense for a little change in performance.

And since you're putting a LOT more load (window, alarm, stereo, etc.) on that larger wire, you might end up with the same or less voltage to the motor as before.

You still think I made it worse? Looks pretty good eh?

 

[Fireguy50]

1986 Ground 701 Behind Instrument Panel near RH side of Radio