[Steve83]

You need to add some fuses :twak to your diagram before it catches fire, FireGuy! :beer


***************************
After looking at it for a minute, all you're doing is replacing the dash switch with 2 relays, which I assume you're putting inside the tailgate. The t/g switch operates as it normally does, but it grounds thru the relays instead of thru the dash switch. It seems like a long way to go to get the same result as changing the dash switch power supply to an always-on fuse... :shrug

 

[Fireguy50]

I'm too much of a rebel for fuses

 

[Fireguy50]

You need to add some fuses :twak to your diagram before it catches fire, FireGuy! :beer

I fixed it okay

After looking at it for a minute, all you're doing is replacing the dash switch with 2 relays, which I assume you're putting inside the tailgate. The t/g switch operates as it normally does, but it grounds thru the relays instead of thru the dash switch. It seems like a long way to go to get the same result as changing the dash switch power supply to an always-on fuse... :shrug

Um kinda, but no. I mounted my relays on the inner quarter panel with my alarm:

When I did it, The fuse panel (top right in the picture) is powered by a 2Ga cable (which also powers my stereo)

So the end result brought more power to the relays. Larger cable = less resistance
Brought the ground closer to the tailgate window motor. Closer ground = less resistance
And the dash switch doesn't take the load anymore and will last longer.

I wouldn't recomend mounting the relays inside the tailgate.

 

[Steve83]

...I mounted my relays on the inner quarter panel... I wouldn't recomend mounting the relays inside the tailgate.

So you've got 2 additional wires running thru the t/g jamb area - did you add a 2-terminal connector behind the taillight, or are they direct-wired? Either way, you've introduced SEVERAL more connections to corrode/loosen/add resistance to the circuit. And all for a fraction-of-a-second increase the motor speed? Still seems like a LOT of work & expense for a little change in performance.

And since you're putting a LOT more load (window, alarm, stereo, etc.) on that larger wire, you might end up with the same or less voltage to the motor as before. I just swapped in a later-model dash switch ('92-96 type, which NEVER go bad) when my original croaked (the 3rd time), and a newer, stronger motor (actually, a whole '96 tailgate). Now, the only thing that slows my glass down is the fact that I bent the frame/body a couple of weeks ago crossing some dry ditches and the camper is misaligned now. :banghead

The frame bent when the BACK bumper came down on the other side.

 

[Fireguy50]

Sorry bout the bent frame, that sucks.

I have no faulty wiring. I redid everything in weatherpack connectors. I'll get pictures tomorrow. I gained a lot in the re-wire.
Go read the tech under the picture :goodfinge
I ran the dash switch wires inside the vehicle now, wo there aren't any extra connetors like you think.

 

[origin]

Steve, do you think that I'd be able to put a factory rear window with defrost strips in my 79, ad make it work, I'm not worried about the wiring, it's more of the window fitting the cap

 

[Fireguy50]

My newest LMC cataloge lists different part numbers for the 78-79 vs 80-up when it comes to tailgate glass and weatherstrip in the top.
but that doesn't mean anything, I've swaped stuff on my truck when others told me it wouldn't work
To answer this you really need a friend with a 80-up to park next to yours and start making measurements / templetes / ect

 

[origin]

I beleive that i have 80-up glass and slider s in there right now, I can dig up the oem part #'s when I bought them so I think that it will work

 

[Steve83]

No, the '78-79 glass is wider at the top than '80-96, so a heated glass wouldn't fully close off your camper. You can probably find a kit to add a grid to your existing glass, but the contact strips and terminals MUST stay inside the t/g; everything that you see has to be paper-thin. That'll make it difficult to find a kit since most of them use thick vertical strips. This is a JCWhitney kit that I put in this Bronco, but its glass doesn't slide. You can barely see the thick black bars at each side.

I also don't think '80-96 side glass will fit in a '78-79 camper. I know the '78-79 sliders are built different from '80-83s (I've never seen any newer than '83) - the older ones have a pivoting "vent" window at the front, like Blazers, and the later ones (like what I have) only have 2 panes of glass per side.

 

[origin]

yeah, the vent sliders are different, if you look @ 78-9, the windows are rounded, not pointed like the 80-up

as for the window sliders, I beleive the part #'s for them were E2's

 

[TTBlows]

I have no faulty wiring.

Yeah right.

Oh, you mean in your truck.

 

[Fireguy50]

:toothless :wacko

 

[Fireguy50]

Here are the original connectors behind the taillight. Sorce of many problems for all Bronco owners:

Here are my new Weatherpack connectors:

yes you see 6 wires:
window up / window down / key switch power / defrost power / defrost ground / and my 6th wire is for a future 3rd brake light

Here are the connectors agian, with the new ground.

There is now a 10ga ground behind each tail light. Drivers side ground is for the drivers brake, tail, back up light, and defroster. Passanger groudn is for the passanger brake, tail, back up, and plate lights. MAde everything brighter

Here you see the wiring at the drivers frame rail:

Weatherpack connectors again. Only connectors here are for the tail lights. Tailgate wiring has been removed.

Here you see the drivers side wiring behind the gas filler:

Tail-light wiring comes over from the frame rail like normal. Tailgate wiring drops down from the inner quarter pannel from my new relays. Like I talked about in the begining of this post.

Here is wiring at the passanger frame rail:

Only difference is that ground for the licence plate lights is suplied from behind the taillight above.



SEE NO FAULTY WIRING HERE

 

[Steve83]

GEESH!!!! :shocked With THAT much rust on the frame & body, I guess you DO need some serious grounding help!

 

[Fireguy50]

:cry love you to steve :cry
Jerk :cry

 

[Steve83]

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaawwwww... :brownbag






:shrug






:goodfinge
:lolup :toothless


:beer

 

[Fireguy50]

You've introduced SEVERAL more connections to corrode/loosen/add resistance to the circuit. And all for a fraction-of-a-second increase the motor speed? Still seems like a LOT of work & expense for a little change in performance.

And since you're putting a LOT more load (window, alarm, stereo, etc.) on that larger wire, you might end up with the same or less voltage to the motor as before.

You still think I made it worse? Looks pretty good eh?

 

[Steve83]

Yeah, it looks great. I guess it was a big improvement in your case, but I think it would be overkill for most people. That's MUCH more rust/corrosion than I'm used to seeing; even in trucks that have sat in the junkyard for years. The body that's on my truck now sat in a mud puddle in Cancer Alley (SW Louisiana) in the most industrialized city in the area (Lake Charles) for at least 4 years after being driven for ~12, and it was nothing like yours. I can only imagine what your terminals looked like...

I just think most people won't see the kind of benefit you did. :thumbup

 

[BLOODSWEATSTEEL]

Ryan; will it make a big difference if the relays are mounted up front, under the fuse panel, rather than in the back quarter?

I've got a sub box built into the wall right there, and it's about a 3 hour job just getting it out to access that area.

 

[i0n]

Ryan, I take it the best connectors to use in these types of situations are the weatherpacks and ground straps?