Re-wire your Tailgate window switch (FINISHED)

102858 Views 67 Replies 30 Participants Last post by Chefdeano, Oct 1, 2016

Fireguy50

Discussion Starter · Oct 24, 2003

First look at the original wiring here:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9397

NOTES
This wires the switches so they both work without the key in the ingition.
It also takes the load off the dash switch. Now the dash switch only suplys 1/8 amp for a relay
For this to work well you need a GOOD ground near the relays.
You need to route a 10gauge or larger wire to the relays in the back.
I mounted my new relays in the back inner quarter panel above the wheel arch.
I recomend replacing the power wire for the tailgate switch; wire it to the same circuit as the relays.
Ok you're responsible for getting a Battery HOT wire threw the firewall. I'm anal about wires and fuses so any help from me will be very complicated for this simple electrical work. It needs to be BIG.

INTRUCTIONS
From that Battery HOT run a 18 gauge wire to the Lite Blue / Black wire on the dash switch. This will make the switch work without the key.

Also cut the Pink/Green and Pink/Blue wires. Splice 18 gauge wires to the switch and route them to the drivers kick panel.

Run a 10 Gauge or larger wire from Battery HOT to the drivers kick panel with the 2 18Ga wires from the switch.

Remove the Door sill cover and route all 3 wires along the drivers rocker panel past the seat belt tensoner trim panel and up to the drivers inner quarter panel above the wheel arch.

Drill a hole threw the inner quater panel and route 3 10ga wires down to below the drivers tail light. I prefer a Red wire Blue Wire and Green Wire. But if you get all Purple wire, I don't care, just keep them from getting mixed up!

Behind the Drivers tail light are the tailgate plugs. I recomend removing any questionable wiring, but your wiring skill may stop that from hapening.
Splice the Red 10Ga wire to the Black/White wire
Splice the Blue 10Ga wire to the Pink/Blue wire
Splice the Green 10Ga wire to the Pink/Green wire

Now at the inner quarter panel mount 2 relays. try to sand down the metal at one of the screw holes as you will use that for a new ground. This Ground has to be GOOD!

Wire up the relays as the diagram above shows. When you splice all the power wires togeather make sure it's not a half ass job. Same for the grounds. The better your power and ground the faster the window will move and the less it will bind up under load.

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smileybry

· #41 · Mar 28, 2006

Ok, dont mean to bring up an old thread..but of course my tailgate wiring needs somehelp.

The window goes down correctly with the master switch on my dash, but not with the key. After looking into it i found the problem to be the "always hot" power wire for the key switch was broken right where the wires bends. I'll probably replace at least a section of all the wires.

I'm thinking instead of having wiring go into the tailgate, and have them eventually break again from teh repeated opening/closing of the tailgate, of using some of these.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm?ptype=results_w&mode=zoom&image=prd_zm_103.jpg

You would put one on the back of the quarter panel, and the other would go on the tailgate. when the tailgate is closed, the circuits would be completed by them touching (each nub is spring loaded)
Since you would never move your tailgate glass when the tailgate open, i dont see that being an issue...any feedback?

BeastBronk

· #42 · Nov 12, 2008

Where is the rear window dash switch ground located at?

Steve83

· #43 · Nov 12, 2008

For ~'90-96, in the driver's kick with several other grounds. Look for the green screws with a BUNCH of black wires.

For '80~89, I'm not sure, but I think it's also in the driver's kick. However, it MIGHT be screwed to the steel dash frame, or the firewall.

Fireguy50

Discussion Starter · #44 · Nov 12, 2008

1986 Ground 701 Behind Instrument Panel near RH side of Radio

Steve83

· #45 · Nov 12, 2008

OK I must be remembering the dash frame on my '83. I'm not sure where it's grounded now. :toothless The firewall or kick would certainly be better.

BeastBronk

· #46 · Nov 18, 2008

Steve83 said:
For ~'90-96, in the driver's kick with several other grounds. Look for the green screws with a BUNCH of black wires.

On my 92, I removed the driver kick panel and I found the green screw,but there was only 1 black wire. Was that for the dash switch?

Steve83

· #47 · Nov 18, 2008

IDK which one you found. There should be at least 2. Got pix?

BeastBronk

· #48 · Dec 28, 2008

Steve83 said:
IDK which one you found. There should be at least 2. Got pix?

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Steve83

· #49 · Dec 28, 2008

Yes, that's G201 which is for all the windows, courtesy lights, instrument cluster, lighter sockets, blower, & horn switch. Instead of many wires at the ring like I was remembering, they spliced them together in the harness that year.

jrledwith

· #50 · Jul 28, 2009

Bronco tailgate window electrical problem

I really need to know where the dash switch is grounded for my 1979 Bronco as I think this might be my problem. I have checked and the widow motor is getting positive power through both switches. When I attach a battery directly to the motor I can get it to work, so I think my ground might be bad. I looked over the front left floor and firewall and can't find a ground at that location. Can anyone help me?

79 Bronco 400

· #51 · Jan 1, 2010

jrledwith said:
I really need to know where the dash switch is grounded for my 1979 Bronco as I think this might be my problem. I have checked and the widow motor is getting positive power through both switches. When I attach a battery directly to the motor I can get it to work, so I think my ground might be bad. I looked over the front left floor and firewall and can't find a ground at that location. Can anyone help me?

I noticed no one replied to your question and this was posted in July 2009. Did you ever find out the answer to your ground problem with your dash switch? I have some electrical issues in my 79 Bronco with the rear window dash switch and the heater fan motor switch and I was hoping that you found the solution to the problem you were experiencing, which might help lead me in the right direction to fixing my problem. Did you get your problem resolved? What did you discover the problem was and how did you fix it? Thanks for your advise....

agradeleous

· #52 · May 18, 2010

Anyone have a copy on how to wire the relays? Pic no longer available at the beginning of the thread. Thanks

junkyard1952

· #53 · Jul 1, 2010

I'm a newcomer to the forum and was wondering if a pic could be posted or diagram of relays talked about in rewire as they don't seem to be here anymore:doh0715:

BigUgly88EB

· #54 · Aug 7, 2010

junkyard1952 said:
I'm a newcomer to the forum and was wondering if a pic could be posted or diagram of relays talked about in rewire as they don't seem to be here anymore:doh0715:

The relays are just Bosch-type, like you'd find next to the fog lights, etc. at your local parts store. The wiring diagram is there in the original post -- you should be able to use that and Ryan's instructions to wire it all up.

I'll be taking this project on sometime before summer's over and will add pics when I do. :thumbup

Alvin in AZ

· #55 · Aug 9, 2010

Ok, I might be missing something here?

{edit: using relays allows the power through the switch to be reduced!;}

On my '91 Edweena Bauer...

All I did was pull the LightBlue/Black wire (circuit # 400) from the fuse block
and plug it into the hot Yellow wire (circuit #37) for the rear window defrost.
(had to cut the funny "fuse connector" off #400 and replace it with a spade)

Don't need no stinkin' defrost here YMMV but I guess a guy could wire in a Y?

The fusible-link for the defrost's circuit #37 is a little lighter than the power
window's original, but so far so good.

All the windows work without a key
now, but I only operate one window at a time and will soon be removing the
driver's side power-window mechanism and replacing it with a hand-crank
mechanism. (it'll be setup like my ex-GF's Freightliner

Alvin in AZ

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sunwest

· #56 · Mar 8, 2011

jrledwith said:
I really need to know where the dash switch is grounded for my 1979 Bronco as I think this might be my problem. I have checked and the widow motor is getting positive power through both switches. When I attach a battery directly to the motor I can get it to work, so I think my ground might be bad. I looked over the front left floor and firewall and can't find a ground at that location. Can anyone help me?

I've got a 78 with the same problem. Seems like all the info I can find in for 80+ some of it is useful, but some things are different.

:banghead

Alvin in AZ

· #57 · Mar 9, 2011

sunwest said:
I've got a 78 with the same problem. Seems like all the info I can find in
for 80+ some of it is useful, but some things are different.

IMO, it really pays to buy the manufacturer's shop manuals and wiring
diagrams etc, especially if you are serious about keeping them for a long
time and fixing 'em yourself.

I special ordered my '75 F150 and the shop manuals and wiring diagrams
came in the mail a month ahead of the pickup showing up at the dealer.

Sorry JR, my '75 wiring diagrams are no good for the rear window on a
Bronco. :/

Many of the questions asked and answered on automotive website forums
are covered by the factory shop manuals and/or wiring diagrams.

Alvin in AZ
ps- Finished the conversion to manual window on the driver's side...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/BroncoDash.jpg

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El Kabong

· #58 · Mar 9, 2011

sunwest said:
I've got a 78 with the same problem. Seems like all the info I can find in for 80+ some of it is useful, but some things are different.

:banghead

In this thread: Tailgate WIndow Wiring Diagram miesk5 provides a diagram for 78-79s by the ORC Staff at ford.off-road.com in post 3

brunus

· #59 · Apr 28, 2011

i gotta say this sounds like a worthwhile modification for just about anybody to do.
less load to the switch equals longer life and better power to the motor equals better operation.
i've gone through my wiring time and again each time uncovering more and more of the mystery behind the construction of circuits and location of grounding and sources of power for my truck. but more so i keep finding all the lovely ****ups the previous owners were so kind to include in the truck.
point of advice to anybody that cares. dielectric grease is your friend. was able to restore functionality to my window when the contacts at the back of the truck started corroding slightly. little cleanin an a lil greasin and it worked beautifully till the power wire got severed three weeks ago. weatherpacks and dielectric grease will keep electrical connections in good condition for many years.

Boog8302

· #60 · Sep 19, 2011

Ok....I have an issue. I have a 95 Bronco XL. The P.O. took out the dash switch for the tailgate window and does not know where it is. I am not going to spend 50+ to get a new switch and I cant find one at Pull-A-Part. I bought a switch that is a DPDT type. A guy reviewed it and said that he used it for the bronco tailgate window. It has 6 posts. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to wire it. I have looked several places. Also, I noticed that on the connector for the dash switch has six wires and 5 posts. It has two blue/black wires for one spot. Why is this? Am I missing something?

I have added two links for the switch I bought.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062530

http://www.servocity.com/html/dpdt_20-amp_momentary_flip_swi.html

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