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Discussion Starter #1
While I was chasing an issue with my dash lights I unbolted the rear defroster switch from metal bracket. While I was taking out the screws the screw driver touched a metal pin on back of defroster switch and sparks flew! Then the engine would not start. Hooked up a pressure gage and there was no fuel pressure. Tried to check codes but for some reason I can not get the code reader to go into test mode for Key on engine off test.

Could I have blown out a fuse or relay some place?
 

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i know the feeling
 

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Discussion Starter #5
fuse sounds probable. Ever heard of disconnecting the battery while doing electrical work? that right there is one of the reasons why.

if you hate it enough, I'll buy it off of you:toothless

Check your fuses:toothless
Normally a plastic encased switch does not have a hot spot. In this case I was taking it off to look at the light bulb so did not see an issue.
 

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aha... you can start saying you hate it after you are on your third engine and second transmission of the year...

Sounds like a fuse blew somewhere or you lost a ground. On second thought, if i remember correctly your harness uses a bunch of "fusible links" that are notorious for shitting the bed
 

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Take a look at a Haynes for the electrical circuit. IIRC there's severeal fusible links.....get your test light out and start probling.
 

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While I was chasing an issue with my dash lights I unbolted the rear defroster switch from metal bracket. While I was taking out the screws the screw driver touched a metal pin on back of defroster switch and sparks flew! Then the engine would not start. Hooked up a pressure gage and there was no fuel pressure. Tried to check codes but for some reason I can not get the code reader to go into test mode for Key on engine off test.

Could I have blown out a fuse or relay some place?
When I was running the "0" gauge ground strap from the negative battery cable to the new amplifier location;



I took the time to run a 4 gauge ground from there to the steel on the dash frame. BIG HELP grounding my 23 year old Bronco, BIG HELP.

Do you have a 3G alternator for that 86 yet ?

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When I was running the "0" gauge ground strap from the negative battery cable to the new amplifier location;



I took the time to run a 4 gauge ground from there to the steel on the dash frame. BIG HELP grounding my 23 year old Bronco, BIG HELP.

Do you have a 3G alternator for that 86 yet ?

Sixlitre
I have not had it running long enough to even get it registered much less change out the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
aha... you can start saying you hate it after you are on your third engine and second transmission of the year...

Sounds like a fuse blew somewhere or you lost a ground. On second thought, if i remember correctly your harness uses a bunch of "fusible links" that are notorious for shitting the bed
I bought it at Thanksgiving and have been doing nothing but troubleshoot since then trying to get it to run so I can get it registered.
 

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heh, i know your pain, i hadent driven mine for 5 months, and even now i only limped it home where it sits until i can get the rear brakes, rims, lugs, and interior bits all taken care of.
 

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I never, ever let my tags run out for those very reasons

I learned a long time ago, even if I ain't driving a vehicle to pay the few bucks to keep the tags current.

Keeps the gov't out of my business !

Sixlitre
 

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Don't feel bad. I AM REALLY HATING MINE right now.

Broken bolts in heads... I get one fixed, the heads done, then buttoning it up. it decides to snap and exhaust manifold bolt... IN THE HEAD.

FOrd. fix or repair daily. done with my hijack of your thread
 

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Don't feel bad. I AM REALLY HATING MINE right now.

Broken bolts in heads... I get one fixed, the heads done, then buttoning it up. it decides to snap and exhaust manifold bolt... IN THE HEAD.

FOrd. fix or repair daily. done with my hijack of your thread
You gonna have to weld a nut to the stud to extract it Bugzappers ?

Sixlitre
 

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actually I got lucky. whew. I just used my set of leftie bits , and out it came. YAY for me. Then we had the ice storm hit. I changed heads in ice, snow, NO POWER, and extreme cold. It took me 5 days. now it won't drop the idle below 900 rpm. GAHHHH.... but it is running, with no leaks, and smog is BYPASSED.. YAY. no more squealing pump and I got RID of all that excess line. Actually have some room under the hood now.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Only semi hate it

I bought it at Thanksgiving and have been doing nothing but troubleshoot since then trying to get it to run so I can get it registered.
After days of rewiring it is now running again. Found several bad splices, which I replaced and several areas where the insulation had worn through. One of which was at the solenoids so the hot wires were shorting out to the case. Thankfully Napa ordered me a box of ford connectors so I could just replace the electrical connector inside the plastic housing. Also found out some idiot filled each connector up with what appears to be dielectric grease. People need to realize it is called dielectric for a reason and it is not to make a better electrical connection. So I now have to go through each connector and clean the grease out to insure there is a good connection. And at $8.00 a can for contact cleaner it is getting expensive.

Still have dash light issues but at least I can drive it again and hopefully get it smogged and licensed.
 
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